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Drywall screws don't go all the way in the first time.

What setting do I need to use to make the drywall screws go all the way in? My girlfriend has a problem getting the screws to set into the drywall.

Thanks,
Gayle

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You use the lower speed setting (which has more torque) and the clutch ring, which is just behind the chuck) should be set to a higher value, i.e. 16, 18, 20 or whatever the largest number is on the drill clutch ring.

If you still cannot drive them all the way in, it might be because you are drilling into hardwood studs or supports behind the drywall. If this is the case, you may have to pre-drill (pilot hole) for each screw so the screws are easier to drive in.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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My 2012 wall air condioner is leaking. How do I fix this and repair the drywall?


It sounds like the drain line is plugged where it goes outdoors, so water is backing up inside the unit until it spills over indoors. Clear the drain line.

You may need to cut a section out of the drywall where it's been damaged, then get a matching piece of new drywall to replace it. If you can cut down the centers of two studs, all the better - then you can screw the new patch directly to the studs on both sides. If not... at least leave yourself a couple of inches of drywall to stitch to - you can do that by screwing small pieces of plywood to the existing drywall, overlapping the hole. Then you can screw the new drywall patch to the plywood.

Next is your adventure in taping & mudding & sanding the drywall to finish the patch. Last, paint it to match the rest of the wall... or repaint all of that wall, including the patch. No need to paint adjacent walls, if your color matching is pretty close.

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Tip

Minor Drywall Repairs


<span>It takes about 4 days for a good patch to be made. You can buy the materials in small quantities at the hardware store, so it won't cost much at all for a small hole, and a little more for a larger one.<br /><br />For a hole smaller than a tennis ball, you can press newspaper crumpled loosely into a ball into the hole, as much as you need, to build the hole up to just below the surface, then cover with overlapping layers of drywall mesh tape. The directions for a larger hole follow, and you can skip the first parts of it if you do not need them (if you are using the newspaper method.). With this method (newspaper) the most important part is to remember that the first coat of spackling is just to anchor the tape and bridge the repair, no more.<br /><br />The easiest way to repair a larger hole in wall board:<br />1. Cut a piece of new wall board larger than the hole you want to repair.<br />2. Take your wallboard "patch and hold it over the hole. Draw the outline of the patch on the wall.<br />3. Using a drywall saw, cut out the outline of the patch on the wall.<br />4. Cut a piece of wood longer than the hole is tall, by about 4". Measure back from each end 2".<br />5. Start a drywall screw 1" above the patch outline, centered. Align the wood in the hole with the lines you made on it at 2" back from the ends. Screw the drywall screw into the wood. Do the same at the bottom. You'll want the drywall screw to be below the surface while trying not to break the paper surface of the drywall.<br />5. Fit your patching piece into the cavity, and, depending on how large the hole is screw through the patch and into the wood with one or two drywall screws.<br />5. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, tape the crack around the patch, overlapping at the corners.<br />6. Use pre-mixed drywall spackling with a 4" putty knife to apply the first coat of drywall spackling to the patch. The aim here is to secure the new drywall to the old, so you need to use the putty knife to press the spackling into the crack, and lightly coat the drywall tape. If your screws that were used to secure your wood to the back of the old drywall are outside of the tape, press the spackling into the screw dimples as well. If you hear a "ticking" sound as you pass over the screws with the spackling, the screw isn't set deep enough. Give it another turn or so, until you don't hear it tick when you pass over it with the knife. Let all of this dry for 24 hours. Clean your tools, and dry them.<br />7. The next day, sand any burrs that stick out, but sand lightly, trying to taper the patch out onto the old wall. Don't be too particular, as there is still a ways to go. Using the drywall knife and spackling, re-coat the patch, blending more onto the wall, and leaving a little more material in the mesh of the drywall tape. The cracks should be refilled, as they'll have shrunken in overnight, so this is all done at the same time. Don't over-work it, just give it a good coating, and leave it alone. The screws that you previously spackled will get another coating at this time as well. You're done for the day, clean and dry your tools.<br />8. The next day, lightly sand the burrs, again feathering a bit onto the wall. Try to remove the dust from sanding with a dry cloth, lightly brushing the patch and wall. This should be the final coat today. Lightly apply your spackling, feathering it out onto the wall. The aim here is to make the finished repair invisible to the eye, so feather out onto the wall at least the width of your blade, if possible. You can fill the screw holes again as needed, feathering the spackling out from the screw dimples onto the patch and wall. Done for the day. Clean and dry your tools.<br />9. Day 4. Sand the patch, feathering out from the patch and across the patch. It should appear relatively flat to the eye, with the cracks and screw holes filled and feathered. No tape should be sticking out. It will all appear smooth. It is ready for matching paint.<br />Hope that this was helpful.<br />Best regards, --W/D--</span>

on Feb 03, 2011 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Drywall screws show


Use setting type compound for filling over screws. This compound doesn't shrink and does a better job of covering them up. Light weight compound is fine but is soft. It does shrink as it dries so you'll need maybe 3 or 4 coats to get the dimple area covered. I use setting compounds on all my second coats for this reason. This applies to tapered seams, end or surface joints and corners. You want to tape the drywall with all purpose compound that does shrink so it pulls the tape tight when dry. I use the TapeBuddy taping tools for a tight, no blister seam. Let this dry and second coat with the setting type compound and your finishing project will go much faster.

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Are Spackle and joint compounds the same thing?


They're not the same thing, spackle is used to fill in holes or indetations made from nails in drywall while joint compounds are used to join drywall panels together.

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When using the drywall screwgun the drill bit comes out and sticks in the screw after every time I drive in a screw. Why doesn't the bit stay in place in the drill? Why does it come out and stick to...


Because the tip is brand new or you don't have a magnetic ti. Try tilting the gun a little sideways before you pull it away from the screw. Sorta like tilting a sweating glass a little bit before you lift it off of a coaster so that the coaster doesn't stick to the bottom of the glass.

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1 Answer

Fixture for curtainrail wentthroughplasterboardbig hole now help.me fix please


Hi, W/D here.

It takes about 4 days for a good patch to be made. You can buy the materials in small quantities at the hardware store, so it won't cost much at all for a small hole, and a little more for a larger one.

For a hole smaller than a tennis ball, you can press newspaper crumpled loosely into a ball into the hole, as much as you need, to build the hole up to just below the surface, then cover with overlapping layers of drywall mesh tape. The directions for a larger hole follow, and you can skip the first parts of it if you do not need them (if you are using the newspaper method.). With this method (newspaper) the most important part is to remember that the first coat of spackling is just to anchor the tape and bridge the repair, no more.

The easiest way to repair a larger hole in wall board:
1. Cut a piece of new wall board larger than the hole you want to repair.
2. Take your wallboard "patch and hold it over the hole. Draw the outline of the patch on the wall.
3. Using a drywall saw, cut out the outline of the patch on the wall.
4. Cut a piece of wood longer than the hole is tall, by about 4". Measure back from each end 2".
5. Start a drywall screw 1" above the patch outline, centered. Align the wood in the hole with the lines you made on it at 2" back from the ends. Screw the drywall screw into the wood. Do the same at the bottom. You'll want the drywall screw to be below the surface while trying not to break the paper surface of the drywall.
5. Fit your patching piece into the cavity, and, depending on how large the hole is screw through the patch and into the wood with one or two drywall screws.
5. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, tape the crack around the patch, overlapping at the corners.
6. Use pre-mixed drywall spackling with a 4" putty knife to apply the first coat of drywall spackling to the patch. The aim here is to secure the new drywall to the old, so you need to use the putty knife to press the spackling into the crack, and lightly coat the drywall tape. If your screws that were used to secure your wood to the back of the old drywall are outside of the tape, press the spackling into the screw dimples as well. If you hear a "ticking" sound as you pass over the screws with the spackling, the screw isn't set deep enough. Give it another turn or so, until you don't hear it tick when you pass over it with the knife. Let all of this dry for 24 hours. Clean your tools, and dry them.
7. The next day, sand any burrs that stick out, but sand lightly, trying to taper the patch out onto the old wall. Don't be too particular, as there is still a ways to go. Using the drywall knife and spackling, re-coat the patch, blending more onto the wall, and leaving a little more material in the mesh of the drywall tape. The cracks should be refilled, as they'll have shrunken in overnight, so this is all done at the same time. Don't over-work it, just give it a good coating, and leave it alone. The screws that you previously spackled will get another coating at this time as well. You're done for the day, clean and dry your tools.
8. The next day, lightly sand the burrs, again feathering a bit onto the wall. Try to remove the dust from sanding with a dry cloth, lightly brushing the patch and wall. This should be the final coat today. Lightly apply your spackling, feathering it out onto the wall. The aim here is to make the finished repair invisible to the eye, so feather out onto the wall at least the width of your blade, if possible. You can fill the screw holes again as needed, feathering the spackling out from the screw dimples onto the patch and wall. Done for the day. Clean and dry your tools.
9. Day 4. Sand the patch, feathering out from the patch and across the patch. It should appear relatively flat to the eye, with the cracks and screw holes filled and feathered. No tape should be sticking out. It will all appear smooth. It is ready for matching paint.
Hope that this was helpful.
Best regards, --W/D--

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Need to know how to operate milwaukee screw gun?


I hope you're talking screw gun and not drill/driver. Screw gun used specifically to set screws in drywall. Make sure you have proper tip in gun (usually #2 phillips). There should be a rotating collar on the gun to control screw depth. The screw should only "dimple" the drywall. It should not tear the paper but should be below the plane of the drywall. To check depth run a putty knife over the screw heads. If you hear it hit, screws need to go a bit deeper. To work quickly; lock the trigger on and place the screw on the gun. Apply steady pressure and let the screw walk into the board until gun breaks free. Takes a bit of practice but pretty soon you'll be flying.

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