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Drywall screws don't go all the way in the first time.

What setting do I need to use to make the drywall screws go all the way in? My girlfriend has a problem getting the screws to set into the drywall.

Thanks,
Gayle

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  • 285 Answers

You use the lower speed setting (which has more torque) and the clutch ring, which is just behind the chuck) should be set to a higher value, i.e. 16, 18, 20 or whatever the largest number is on the drill clutch ring.

If you still cannot drive them all the way in, it might be because you are drilling into hardwood studs or supports behind the drywall. If this is the case, you may have to pre-drill (pilot hole) for each screw so the screws are easier to drive in.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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My 2012 wall air condioner is leaking. How do I fix this and repair the drywall?


It sounds like the drain line is plugged where it goes outdoors, so water is backing up inside the unit until it spills over indoors. Clear the drain line.

You may need to cut a section out of the drywall where it's been damaged, then get a matching piece of new drywall to replace it. If you can cut down the centers of two studs, all the better - then you can screw the new patch directly to the studs on both sides. If not... at least leave yourself a couple of inches of drywall to stitch to - you can do that by screwing small pieces of plywood to the existing drywall, overlapping the hole. Then you can screw the new drywall patch to the plywood.

Next is your adventure in taping & mudding & sanding the drywall to finish the patch. Last, paint it to match the rest of the wall... or repaint all of that wall, including the patch. No need to paint adjacent walls, if your color matching is pretty close.

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Minor Drywall Repairs


<span>It takes about 4 days for a good patch to be made. You can buy the materials in small quantities at the hardware store, so it won't cost much at all for a small hole, and a little more for a larger one.<br /><br />For a hole smaller than a tennis ball, you can press newspaper crumpled loosely into a ball into the hole, as much as you need, to build the hole up to just below the surface, then cover with overlapping layers of drywall mesh tape. The directions for a larger hole follow, and you can skip the first parts of it if you do not need them (if you are using the newspaper method.). With this method (newspaper) the most important part is to remember that the first coat of spackling is just to anchor the tape and bridge the repair, no more.<br /><br />The easiest way to repair a larger hole in wall board:<br />1. Cut a piece of new wall board larger than the hole you want to repair.<br />2. Take your wallboard "patch and hold it over the hole. Draw the outline of the patch on the wall.<br />3. Using a drywall saw, cut out the outline of the patch on the wall.<br />4. Cut a piece of wood longer than the hole is tall, by about 4". Measure back from each end 2".<br />5. Start a drywall screw 1" above the patch outline, centered. Align the wood in the hole with the lines you made on it at 2" back from the ends. Screw the drywall screw into the wood. Do the same at the bottom. You'll want the drywall screw to be below the surface while trying not to break the paper surface of the drywall.<br />5. Fit your patching piece into the cavity, and, depending on how large the hole is screw through the patch and into the wood with one or two drywall screws.<br />5. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, tape the crack around the patch, overlapping at the corners.<br />6. Use pre-mixed drywall spackling with a 4" putty knife to apply the first coat of drywall spackling to the patch. The aim here is to secure the new drywall to the old, so you need to use the putty knife to press the spackling into the crack, and lightly coat the drywall tape. If your screws that were used to secure your wood to the back of the old drywall are outside of the tape, press the spackling into the screw dimples as well. If you hear a "ticking" sound as you pass over the screws with the spackling, the screw isn't set deep enough. Give it another turn or so, until you don't hear it tick when you pass over it with the knife. Let all of this dry for 24 hours. Clean your tools, and dry them.<br />7. The next day, sand any burrs that stick out, but sand lightly, trying to taper the patch out onto the old wall. Don't be too particular, as there is still a ways to go. Using the drywall knife and spackling, re-coat the patch, blending more onto the wall, and leaving a little more material in the mesh of the drywall tape. The cracks should be refilled, as they'll have shrunken in overnight, so this is all done at the same time. Don't over-work it, just give it a good coating, and leave it alone. The screws that you previously spackled will get another coating at this time as well. You're done for the day, clean and dry your tools.<br />8. The next day, lightly sand the burrs, again feathering a bit onto the wall. Try to remove the dust from sanding with a dry cloth, lightly brushing the patch and wall. This should be the final coat today. Lightly apply your spackling, feathering it out onto the wall. The aim here is to make the finished repair invisible to the eye, so feather out onto the wall at least the width of your blade, if possible. You can fill the screw holes again as needed, feathering the spackling out from the screw dimples onto the patch and wall. Done for the day. Clean and dry your tools.<br />9. Day 4. Sand the patch, feathering out from the patch and across the patch. It should appear relatively flat to the eye, with the cracks and screw holes filled and feathered. No tape should be sticking out. It will all appear smooth. It is ready for matching paint.<br />Hope that this was helpful.<br />Best regards, --W/D--</span>

on Feb 03, 2011 | Plumbing

2 Answers

Drying out wet drywall


I'm assuming your talking about drywall that was wet during a flood of some type? Recommend you remove all damaged drywall and using a straight edge and a utility knife this can be easily accomplished. After you cut and remove the damage, remove all screws or nails from the studs giving a good surface for the new drywall that your going to replace the damaged stuff with. Get that done and we can move onto taping and drywall compound repairs. Hope this helps.

Mar 16, 2014 | Tools & Hardware - Others

1 Answer

Drywall screws show


Use setting type compound for filling over screws. This compound doesn't shrink and does a better job of covering them up. Light weight compound is fine but is soft. It does shrink as it dries so you'll need maybe 3 or 4 coats to get the dimple area covered. I use setting compounds on all my second coats for this reason. This applies to tapered seams, end or surface joints and corners. You want to tape the drywall with all purpose compound that does shrink so it pulls the tape tight when dry. I use the TapeBuddy taping tools for a tight, no blister seam. Let this dry and second coat with the setting type compound and your finishing project will go much faster.

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What speed would i need to set my cordless drill at to put hole in wall


Your drill will drill a hole at any speed, the drill bit needs to be sharp to drill the mateirial.The type of wall material is important.Drywall is soft but a masonry bit should be used.A masonry bit has a flat bar accross the point and slower speeds are best.Wood walls / studs you need wood bits that are sharper and medium to high speeds are used.Concrete or Block walls again require Masonry bits.If very hard concrete as in foundation walls or filled block the use of a Hammer drill will work much faster.Good Luck

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1 Answer

Fixture for curtainrail wentthroughplasterboardbig hole now help.me fix please


Hi, W/D here.

It takes about 4 days for a good patch to be made. You can buy the materials in small quantities at the hardware store, so it won't cost much at all for a small hole, and a little more for a larger one.

For a hole smaller than a tennis ball, you can press newspaper crumpled loosely into a ball into the hole, as much as you need, to build the hole up to just below the surface, then cover with overlapping layers of drywall mesh tape. The directions for a larger hole follow, and you can skip the first parts of it if you do not need them (if you are using the newspaper method.). With this method (newspaper) the most important part is to remember that the first coat of spackling is just to anchor the tape and bridge the repair, no more.

The easiest way to repair a larger hole in wall board:
1. Cut a piece of new wall board larger than the hole you want to repair.
2. Take your wallboard "patch and hold it over the hole. Draw the outline of the patch on the wall.
3. Using a drywall saw, cut out the outline of the patch on the wall.
4. Cut a piece of wood longer than the hole is tall, by about 4". Measure back from each end 2".
5. Start a drywall screw 1" above the patch outline, centered. Align the wood in the hole with the lines you made on it at 2" back from the ends. Screw the drywall screw into the wood. Do the same at the bottom. You'll want the drywall screw to be below the surface while trying not to break the paper surface of the drywall.
5. Fit your patching piece into the cavity, and, depending on how large the hole is screw through the patch and into the wood with one or two drywall screws.
5. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, tape the crack around the patch, overlapping at the corners.
6. Use pre-mixed drywall spackling with a 4" putty knife to apply the first coat of drywall spackling to the patch. The aim here is to secure the new drywall to the old, so you need to use the putty knife to press the spackling into the crack, and lightly coat the drywall tape. If your screws that were used to secure your wood to the back of the old drywall are outside of the tape, press the spackling into the screw dimples as well. If you hear a "ticking" sound as you pass over the screws with the spackling, the screw isn't set deep enough. Give it another turn or so, until you don't hear it tick when you pass over it with the knife. Let all of this dry for 24 hours. Clean your tools, and dry them.
7. The next day, sand any burrs that stick out, but sand lightly, trying to taper the patch out onto the old wall. Don't be too particular, as there is still a ways to go. Using the drywall knife and spackling, re-coat the patch, blending more onto the wall, and leaving a little more material in the mesh of the drywall tape. The cracks should be refilled, as they'll have shrunken in overnight, so this is all done at the same time. Don't over-work it, just give it a good coating, and leave it alone. The screws that you previously spackled will get another coating at this time as well. You're done for the day, clean and dry your tools.
8. The next day, lightly sand the burrs, again feathering a bit onto the wall. Try to remove the dust from sanding with a dry cloth, lightly brushing the patch and wall. This should be the final coat today. Lightly apply your spackling, feathering it out onto the wall. The aim here is to make the finished repair invisible to the eye, so feather out onto the wall at least the width of your blade, if possible. You can fill the screw holes again as needed, feathering the spackling out from the screw dimples onto the patch and wall. Done for the day. Clean and dry your tools.
9. Day 4. Sand the patch, feathering out from the patch and across the patch. It should appear relatively flat to the eye, with the cracks and screw holes filled and feathered. No tape should be sticking out. It will all appear smooth. It is ready for matching paint.
Hope that this was helpful.
Best regards, --W/D--

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1 Answer

Need to know how to operate milwaukee screw gun?


I hope you're talking screw gun and not drill/driver. Screw gun used specifically to set screws in drywall. Make sure you have proper tip in gun (usually #2 phillips). There should be a rotating collar on the gun to control screw depth. The screw should only "dimple" the drywall. It should not tear the paper but should be below the plane of the drywall. To check depth run a putty knife over the screw heads. If you hear it hit, screws need to go a bit deeper. To work quickly; lock the trigger on and place the screw on the gun. Apply steady pressure and let the screw walk into the board until gun breaks free. Takes a bit of practice but pretty soon you'll be flying.

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1 Answer

How does the adjustable depth drywall bit work? The bit inside keeps spinning and does not drive screw into sheetrock?


It's not the tip, but the screw gun itself. The screw gun has a clutch on it that allows you to set the screw at different depths. You must adjust the screw gun to the desired depth. The deeper you want the screw to go, the less the clutch will slip.

Jim

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2 Answers

How is a driver different from a drill? What


Hello, W/D here.

A very good question......A drill holds a bit and rotates it at a given speed. This speed can be variable, allowing the speed of the drill bit to be better matched to the material being drilled. The output from the drill motor goes directly to the chuck, and the power is directly applied to the drill bit. Some drills can generate a tremendous amount of direct torque, due to the nature of their gearing. Most of the better drills have planetary gears in them.
A driver rotates like a drill, but is designed to apply torque to a driving bit, and cause a fastener to be placed by the driver. The main difference between a drill and a driver is that a driver has an adjustable clutch, allowing the amount of torque being applied to a fitting to be preset. A good example of this would be for driving wood screws. You would dial in the torque setting that you want the driver to quit driving the screw. You don't want to drive the screw to China, you want to drive it flush. A maximum torque setting "locks" the clutch, and the fitting will be driven as far as it can go (This is about as close to being called a drill as a driver will ever get). A clutch setting midway might be just right for driving the same fitting into oak, and a setting at less than that might be just right for pine. The torque clutch effectively sets a kick out torque for the driver. When the torque applied matches the torque set on the driver, the clutch "slips", and no further driving action can occur.
Most modern battery powered drills incorporate a torque clutch between the motor and the chuck so that the tool can be operated as a drill (with the torque setting at "max") or as a driver (with the torque setting at less than max) some electric tools are configured as both, but usually they are different. For the money, a good battery powered drill/driver with a clutch offers more versatility, in my opinion.
Best regards, --W/D--

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How to Install Towel Ring


Place the mounting bracket against the wall and trace around the inside of the two ovals on the bracket. Gently drill a hole into the center of the traced oval. If you hit a stud, you will not need the anchor. Carefully tap the drywall anchors into the holes. Screw the bracket onto the wall, using the screws provided, into the two anchor points. Make sure the set screw is backed out far enough to set the escutcheon over the mounting bracket. Place the escutcheon over the mounting bracket, top first. Tighten the set screw with the Allen Wrench provided.

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