I am working on a norlake walk in and dont have a wiring diagrahm wher do the two wires coming from the pressure control hook in to

if the temp is 10f compressor is fine, just need a tune up, call a specialist.

I have a generic wiring diagram that I use on all my installs that works very well. It is basically the same for most all commercial walk in freezers. Send me a email address and I'll scan and forward what I have.

Normally freezers are kept at zero. Most health departments will not allow the temp to be higher than plus 10. If you want to store ice cream, you need to be at minus 10 degrees to minus 15 degrees.

let me know if I can be of any further help.

I've worked on freezers for over 20 years and have never heard of a compressor going bad because the door was left open. think about a second opinion.
Also, has the cooling coil inside the box developed and frost or ice build up? If so, it needs to be completely defrosted. If you defrost it manually, use a hose hooked up to hot water. Kill all power and hose all build up off. Remove the sheet metal housing ends and be sure there is no ice inside there too. I would go in this direction first.
IN order to kill a compressor under this condition, something really strange must have happened as anything is possible in a refrigeration system. Good luck and hope this helps.

Normally, freezers have electric heaters that are energized during the defrost cycle. Once out of the defrost cycle, the refrigeration system comes on but the fans do not. This allows the evap to cool off and to prevent circulating warm air from the heaters. This is controlled by a fan delay switch. It is a small, round device that can have 2, 3, or 4 wires going to it, depending on the manufacturer. It is usually clipped on to the end of the evap coil on one of the "U" bends, near the top, inside one of the ends of the evap. Usually where all the electrial components are located. It come in several variations, but it's main function is to prevent the fans from energizing too early. Usually does not bring fans on till evap hits 20 or so degrees. Check this out and get back to me.

Compressor 12/3 with 20 amp dual pole breaker. 220 VAC

Freezer 12/3 with 20 amp single pole breaker 120 VAC

WALK INS HAVE TWO THINGS THAT SHORTEN DEFROST OR MAKE THEM LONGER. IF ALL THE ICE IS BEING CLEARED BY THE HEATERS IN THE COIL THEN IT WILL KICK OUT AUTOMATICALLY IF DEFROST CONTINUES AND THE COIL GETS TO HOT DUE TO AN OVERTEMP SENSOR ON THE COIL. HOWEVER IT WILL STAY IN A DFROST AS LONG AS IT IS PROGRAMMED TO UNLESS THAT SENSOR TRIPS. SO...... LOOK AT THE TIME CLOCK AND SEE WHAT LENGTH OF TIME ITS IS SET FOR. USUALLY A DEFROST CYCLE WILL BE SET FOR 30 TO 40 MINUTES. IF SET TO LONG THEN DEFROST GOES TO LONG AND ONLY COMES BACK ON WHEN SENSOR TRIPS. ADJUST CLOCK TIME TO 30 MINUTES OR 5 MINUTES LESSS THAN ITS SET AT RUN A FEW DAYS AND OBSERVE ICE FORMATION ETC. CLOCK MAY BE STICKING AND MAY NEED A LIGHT DRENCHING OF THE GEARS WITH A LIGHT OIL. TURN IT AROUND A FEW TIMES TO SPREAD OIL AROUND. YOU COULD RUN A CHECK ON THE CLOCK BY SETTING THE TIME TO TWO MINUTES AND GENTLY TURN IT TILL ITS CLICKS INTO A DEFROST AND WAIT . IT SHOULD COME OUT OF DEFROST AND BACK INTO REFRIGERATION IN 5 MINUTES. IF DEFROST IS SET WAY TO LONG THEN IT HAS BEEN RELYING ONLY ON THE TEMP OVERTEMP SENSOR TO TERMINATE DEFROST. IF IT FAILS THEN THE EXCESSSIVE DEFROST WILL CONTINUE TILL PRODUCT MELTS. SETTING THE CLOCK TO A SHORTER TIME SHOULD CORRECT BUT THE OVERTEMP SENSOR IS PROBABLY BAD . AVAILABLE FROM MOST COMMERCIAL REF REPAIR COMPANIES. OR YOU MAYBE CAN ORDER FROM MANUFACTURER AND CHACK EXACT OEM PART WIRE FOR WIRE ETC. LABEL ALL WIRES . TURN OFF POWER, TEST IT. MAKE NOTES.

Check the evaporator coil for frost buildup on the back. Check for frost on the suction line, the biggest line returning to the compressor. If frost is evident at these places you have a defrost system problem. These systems have a defrost timer that defrosts the coil at preset times. Check the timer for proper operation by marking the position of the dial and check back to see if it changes. If it does not change position the timer motor is most likely bad. If the dial is not rotating automatically you can manually turn the dial in the direction of the arrow and put it through a defrost cycle.

They are usually mounted on the front panel of the evaporator or mounted on the wall behind the evaporator.There is a possibility that the temp. control is at the condenser,and the sensing bulb was slipped thru the wall.Look for the bulb at the back of the evaporator and follow the cap tube.

Yes if the evaporator drain is blocked or not attached correctly it causes the humidity to remain in the refridgerator. Just opening the door will cause the warm are to enter and cause the symtoms of rain if the water is not taken out the drain properly.Hope this helps JT