I have a GE side by side refrig Model GSH25KGPA. The evaporator coils are freezing up. How would i know if the circuit board is bad, or the thermostat, or the heater? I have read another answer that describes checking the blue and orange wire of the circuit board and J1-4 and J1-5 of the circuit board. I have the circuit board open but I'm not sure where the above connections are. Thanks for your help.
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Re: Evaporator Coils freezing.
Hi, The most common problem is the defrost heater. It is attached to the bottom of the evaporator coil in a bracket.
If you have a meter, you can remove the element from the coil and take the two wires off. Checck the post on the element that the wirea attach to for continuity. If the element is good, it will have continuity to it. If the element is ok, check continuity on the bi-metal switch attatched to the top of the evaporator coils. It too must have continuity to be ok and it needs to be tested while still cold.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
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When a refrigerator slows down ice production it is usually the result of poor air-flow through the evaporator coils. The poor air-flow is due to ice build up on the evaporator coils. The ice build up happens because the unit is not defrosting properly or the evaporator fan is not running at full speed.
To answer your question "Can an Ice-maker tube freeze?" Yes, they can and do freeze but when they do freeze that is caused by a defective inlet water valve that is leaking water by when it is supposed to be shut off. It can freeze if some one set the temp control to MAX cold. Additionally when they do freeze and the Ice-maker cycles the plastic hose on the back of the unit pops out of the ice maker tube and each cycle starts porting ice maker fill water on the floor.
This may sound odd.. but. Perform a manual defrost by removing the freezer contents and directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess so do not leave it unattended) The return the unit to normal service and after 8 hours start watching the amount of ice produced. (Should be normal for 2 days!) If after 2 days the ice production slows again you have an automatic defrosting problem that is causing the ice build up on the evaporator coils.
If you need any more assistance please include your complete model number in any future responses.
Amana refrig have 2 main problems . 1 is the defrost bimetal ( 1" cylinder at the top right on the freezer coils with 2 wires ) and the other is a refrigerant leak where the copper tubing joins the aluminum tubing at the freezer coils ( evaporator coils ) . If your freezer fan is not working and you have frost on the freezer coils then replace the bimetal as this also controls the defrost heater ( defrost thermostat ) . If you have no frost on the coils ( for both checks , you will have to remove the inside rear freezer panel , maybe 12 screws ) , then a refrigerant leak has happened and the best solution would be to replace the refrig .
have you checked the evaporator coil for icing up,it sounds like after you unplug it it defrosts and the evaporator deices,this could be caused by dirty evaporator and condenser coils or warm air getting around door seals condensing on the evaporator coils and freezing and blocking cold air flow,if this is the case,then check defrost heater circuit for proper operation
Replace the defrost bimetal . On older Amanas' , the coil has to be cold , before the evaporator fan starts ( bimetal closes ) . This way , heat from the defrost cycle , will not be blown into the refrig section .
The main control board is probably the problem . Part number WR55X10656 . This board controls the operation of the fan motors and everything else on the refrig . This is also the " defrost timer " . However , the coils frosting up , is probably because the fan motor is not pulling air across them . Not because of a faulty " defrost timer " . This board is located on the back of the refrig , behind an 8"X10" panel . Usually a resistor burns out relating to the fan motor operation . Cannot replace the resistor , only the board .
You should be able to see the drain under the coil. Part 804 on this diagram. Your drain tubemay be stopped up with ice at the upper end
because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the
evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it.
Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey basterwill usually clear it out. Flushing
it out with hot water and clorox may help. Make sure it drains quick enough
to prevent refreezing.
You might want to check and make sure the interior fan is working above the evaporator coils. If the fan isn't working the air won't circulate over the evaporator and it will frost over very quickly, and also cold air won't be pushed into the fridge side.
The fan might turn off when the door is open, hold the door switch shut while you check it.