Question about GE GSH25KGPWW / GSH25KGPBB / GSH25KGPCC Side by Side Refrigerator

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Evaporator Coils freezing.

I have a GE side by side refrig Model GSH25KGPA. The evaporator coils are freezing up. How would i know if the circuit board is bad, or the thermostat, or the heater? I have read another answer that describes checking the blue and orange wire of the circuit board and J1-4 and J1-5 of the circuit board. I have the circuit board open but I'm not sure where the above connections are. Thanks for your help.

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  • 1alembic Jun 20, 2009

    Vic, thanks for the response. When you say "continuity" do you mean no resistance? And is the bi-metal switch also the thermostat? thanks. I'll check both tomorrow and leave a response as to what I find. thanks again.

    Kevin

  • 1alembic Jun 21, 2009

    Thanks again. I just took the heater out and tested it. It does have continuity. I also tested the heater with this method of using Alligator clips to force the heater on and it did heat up while connected in the freezer (http://fixitnow.com/wp/2008/11/04/how-to...). Is there some reason it is not coming on automatically when I'm not using the alligator clips? Thanks for all the help.

  • 1alembic Jul 12, 2009

    Vic,
    I tested the bi-metal switch and it did have continuity when cold and when warm. So I replaced the mother board. When I replaced the mother board I also dethawed all the coils in the back wall. However, after about 2 or 3 weeks the evaporator coils were completely frozen again. Do you have any other suggestions or ideas about what may be wrong. could it be a problem with the temperature sensors?
    Thanks,
    Kevin

  • 1alembic Jul 13, 2009

    Thanks Vic. I'll replace the bi-metal switch and see if that makes a difference. If not, I'll post again in a few weeks.
    thanks.

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  • Master
  • 1,136 Answers

Hi, The most common problem is the defrost heater. It is attached to the bottom of the evaporator coil in a bracket.
If you have a meter, you can remove the element from the coil and take the two wires off. Checck the post on the element that the wirea attach to for continuity. If the element is good, it will have continuity to it. If the element is ok, check continuity on the bi-metal switch attatched to the top of the evaporator coils. It too must have continuity to be ok and it needs to be tested while still cold.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Victor
    Victor Jun 21, 2009

    The bi - metal is a thermostat. If there is continuity, there is a closed circuit so the electricity can flow through the switch. If the switxh is open, the electricty can not flow though the switch.

  • Victor
    Victor Jun 21, 2009

    The other parts to the defrost cycle are the bi-metal switch and the mother board. The bi-metal switch must have continuity also WHILE it is cold!

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 12, 2009

    Kevin, If the bi-metal is the only thing that you have not changed, I would change it. It could be intermitant. If not adefrost problem, the only other reason the coils should frost up is if the evaporator fan motor is not working. The i-metal switch is a 2 fold switch on this model. It also lets the fan motor know when it is cold enough to run.

    If the temperature switch was bad, the refigerator would either warm up or start freezing even in the fresh food section.

    I believe they have changed the design of the defrost heater for this model as well. They have changed it to a double heater system.

    Vic

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 13, 2009

    Ok, You might want to ask your parts store about the bouble element upgrade as well. Ask if you model needs the change.

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