It's starting to increase in frequency. The unit works great. Picture looks fine. Until after being on a while, the TV will crackle and the screen goes black. The audio is not affected. Usually turning the power off for a minute will fix it, but even that is becoming a less reliable fix. What part(s) is going bad?
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Re: Picture snaps off, Sound still come through.
A crackling sound could mean that the flyback's insulation has failed and it is arcing inside. If that is the case then it may stop working entirely pretty soon. Take it to a tech as soon as you can, the flyback is a pretty expensive part, however if it blows it can break the set to the point that repairs will not be worth it.
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Well...as you said...the unit powers up...so you don't have a "dead set".I don't know if the speaker can be disconnected from the unit.As a rule of thumb...it is very rare that both channels (left and right )fail at the same time...it is usually one channel while the other speaker still operates.This is what I want you to do...In a quiet room..get really close to the unit...Switch it on and listen for any sound from the speakers...get really close...you should hear a slight hum from the woofers and a high frequency "hiss" from the tweeters....If no sound is heard..switch the unit off..You should hear a "plip" sound...If not...switch it on again...you should hear a slight "bump" sound from the woofers...If you hear no sound from the speakers at all..there is a problem with the output stages of the amplifier section.If you do hear sounds fron the speakers,,Turn up the volume and watch for an increase visually on the display (such as ascending numbers).If there is no indication of a volume increase...The "mute" may be stuck on..Try switching it off and on...please let me know what happens after you do all the tests....Looking to hear from you......PEACE!!! ok...
You will find 4 little horizontal slots at the top and bottom of the radio. There are special tools that slide into these slots (part # T10057) that you slide into those slots to engage the release mechanism. You then pull straight out on the rings of the tools. Do not twist or tilt the tools while pulling it out. Once out you release the tools by pressing the locking tabs near the point where each tool was inserted. Reinstall by sliding the unit back in with out the tools engaged until it snaps in.
It's probably best to allow the amp that is powering the subs to control the frequencies going to the sub(s). I would not use the lpf on both the head unit and the amp in any case. The control settings are not completely precise and you could end up with a lot of tweaking between the units to get the sound you want. I'd send full range to the amp and with it playing something with a lot of bass, set the 401s to "LP", the crossover slope to near maximum, and then adjust the frequency until it sounded best to me. Starting on page 11 of your manual are the Rockford-Fosgate recommended adjustment procedures, including setting the gains and the filter frequency.
Those numbers for the lpf on your head unit sounds like it allows you to decrease (-24dB), as well as increase (+6dB) the bass at the specific frequencies of 50, 63, 80 and 100Hz. You probably don't want to decrease the bass boost for subs. And the 401s will allow a boost up to 12dB and is variable from 50-250Hz.
I don't know if this will solve your problem, but I have a question. Does the receiver sit under another piece of hardware? Especially one that gives off a lot of heat? It is possible that the amp or power supply is overheating. The heat forces the receiver off until it has a chance to cool down. Then when it turns back on, it starts to generate heat again. Try moving it out from under any other gear or out from under a shelf so that lots of air can get in the top. Maybe even try putting a fan over it, just as a test to see if this helps. I work at a recording studio in Toronto, and we were having the same problem with one of our digital multitrack tape machines (No the studio is not trapped 10 years in the past - we just use tape for backing up and client delivery). Anyway, early in the day, the unit worked fine. If we tried to use it later in the day, we would get glitches all over the tape, or the transport would freeze up altogether. We found that when we moved the unit into a rack where it could really breath, and where it wasn't right under an 8 channel mic pre-amp, that it worked without any problem. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
You have one of two possibilites going on here. Lets do the hard one first. (1) you may have a defective audio Amp IC. part # 264589 (2) The most popular cause of no audio on this unit is "the wife was cleaning the unit and hit the speaker int/ext switch on the back of the unit" This switch is a little hard to find. Its very close to the Video/Audio inputs. Its a sliding switch.
not blub you do get light ie a picture it sound like your video processor has a heat problem, alias, you can not repair this you self, Hope its still under the warranty. You got to take it to the repair man... Soory