Question about Janome Memory Craft 9000 Computerized Sewing Machine
The solution that I found last night was the thread tension. I have never touched the dial, only had it set on 'auto." When I started playing with it, I realized the top thread should be really easy to pull through the machine and it wasn't. I started turning the dial (to 3 or 4) and the thread slid through the machine perfectly. No more birds nest! I really thought it was bobbin initially because of the horrible sound it was making.
Posted on Jun 05, 2008
If you are using a standard top tension of 4 or 5 and this problem has developed over time, the most likely cause is lint deposited between the tension disks....... if the top tension is loose, or in the tension spring of the bobbin case if the bottom tension is having troubles. In either case you need to remove the lint......
Raise the presser foot and with a length of scrap fabric, use an action like flossing your teeth to get between the top tension disks......in extreme cases a probe (old needle) may be used very gently to remove thread and lint, but be VERY careful not to scratch the polished surfaces.
I have also written a tutorial on tension balance which may be of further assistance, particularly for bobbin tension issues:
Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks ! www.bargainbox.com.au
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
You may need a new bobbin case if your machine is an older model.. Over time the cases get nicks in them causing thread to catch on it. Have you lubricated the bobbin area? Needs one drop of oil for every ,I believe it is 25 hours of usage. That may take care of it. The oil goes under the bobbin right in the center of bobbin case. Remove your bobbin before applying the oil. i hope this helps you. Good Luck
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
SOURCE: Bobbin problems
Are you using a size "A" (Class 15) bobbin? If you are using pre-wounds and they are not this size... they will jump around alot. The size of an "L" is very similar, but they are not as tall (height off the table when laying flat on the round side... like when sitting in the bobbin case.) There are tricks to using the thinner bobbins... See if you have a "taller" size "A"/Class 15 and if that corrects the trouble. email@example.com
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
SOURCE: will not pick up bobbin thread
Unusual for this machine. Check to be sure the needle is inserted with the flat side to the back of the machine. If it is, remove the needle plate, bobbin and bobbin case. Turn the hand wheel slowly toward you and see if the point of the hook is above or below the eye of the needle when the hook point is aligned behind the needle. If the eye is above the point of the hook the machine is out of time and best taken to qualified technician.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
Remove the needle plate and the bobbin case.
Ensure that the needle is inserted all the way up into the needle clamp.
Set the machine for straight stitch, center needle position.
Slowly turn the handwheel in the normal sewing direction and observe the following hook timing setting:
When the needle reaches it's lowest point and travels up 3.5mm, the point of the hook should be directly behind the needle, or at least within 1 or 2mm.
Another view is as the hook passes the needle, it should pass the needle slightly above the eye of the needle.
If the timing looks good, use some alcohol on a bit of cloth to clean the hook, careful around the tip of the hook as it is very sharp.
If the hook timing is off, you will need to take it to a knowledgeable service person as there are several possible solutions and several other related adjustments which will need to be made.
Posted on Jan 16, 2010
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