Question about Visonik V408XT 250W x 2 Car Amp Car Audio Amplifier

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Amp in protect

I read others about breaking down the amp do to overheating, but the amp goes into protect with just the remote and ground wire in (not even 12+). The only way I get it to work is having a wire run from the 12+ to the remote, but it sounds like ****. The (white) power button flashes when playing, is this thing really 400 rms because my HiFonics pushed this one 10" sub hard and this is about 15% of that. Any idea of what the problem is please let me know.

P.S. I had the remote,ground, and 12+ professionally installed and worked fine on my other amp before I blew a power circuit (I believe)

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  • CUTTER4LIFE
    CUTTER4LIFE May 11, 2010

    WHEN BLOWING THE OTHER POWER CIRCUIT DID YOU FIND THE PROBLEM BECAUSE IT BLOW FOR A REASON AND WHEN HOOKING UP SPEAKER ARE YOU BRIDGING BECAUSE NOT ALL AMPS ARE MADE FOR THIS BUT USUALLY CAN TRIKE IT TRY REVERSING THE WIRES FOR THE SPEAKER OUT-PUT ONE CHANNEL ON POS. AND ONE CHANNEL ON NEG. OR VISEA VERSE TRY A POS. WIRE FROM THE BATTERY INTO A FUSE THEN STRIGHT TO THE AMP WITH NO OTHER BREAKES IN IT LESS CUTS AND CONNECTIONS THE BETTER AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT GAGE WIRE ATLEAST 12G.AND FUSE MAYBE 25A

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  • 26 Answers

DUDE CHECK UR WIRE .... AND INSIDE UR AMP THERE MIGHT B A SHORT CIRCUIT OR UR AMP GROUND PLUG INSIDE MUST BURNT OUT

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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SOURCE: My system is running hot!!!!!

your subs are the problem, not your amp, your wiring your subs paralelle, means dropping input ohmage, allowing your amp to over heat with minimal load, check the amp specs for running at low ohms, most hifonics amps are rated 2 ohms and higher, some however will run at 1 ohm, only on class b-a amps though.(competition) dropping ohmage will allow the amp to push more power to the voice coils, however the voice coils may not be rated for 1 ohm power, what ohmage are your coils rated at? do you have a min. of 100 amp inline fuse on your 1-0 awg wire? do you have internal fans? you can add mosfets to the amp but if you do so, you'll have to re-program your amps mother board.

Posted on Jun 08, 2010

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Sounds like a shorted speaker wire. Try disconnecting speaker from amp and see if protection light goes out- if so replace bad speaker wire. Only other issue i can think of from your short description is that you might have a bad ground going to amp or the remote power wire is bad. try running a new ground wire to a clean metallic spot on you cars chassis close to where the amp is located. Good ground = good clean sound

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Hello m_george191,

Usually an amp will go into protection when there is a problem with the wiring, impedance load, or when overheated. Immediately when hooked up, it probably isn't overheating.

Most likely, there's a short or ground on a speaker wire, an input, or a faulty ground to the amp itself. Frayed or broken insulation, stray wires shorting across the terminal blocks, and shorted voice coils can all cause the protection circuit to activate.

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Measure the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals as well as across remote and ground. If you have less than 11 volts when the amp tries to power up, the amp could be shutting down due to low voltage.

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