Question about KitchenAid 23 in. KUDD01DPPA Stainless Steel Dishwasher
I recently replaced both lids, bottom o-rings and bottom motor. The first time I used it after that, both top and bottom ran fine. Second time, I ran only the top. At about the point where the wash cycle and draining were finished, it beeped exactly like it does when you first open one of the drawers (the trilling " da, da, da, dot) only one time then it stopped and continued trying to drain water. This stop and start draining happened four or five more times then finally it went to dry cycle with no other beeps until it was actually finished (the three long beeps). What else needs to be replaced?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Buzzing noise and won't clean
water-inlet valve can sometimes fail slowly, rather than all at once.
It can shudder on and off rapidly, causing the incoming water lines to
shake, rumble, and rattle--sometimes violently. If yours is doing this,
replace the inlet valve.or may be its due to
Heater fanIf the heater fan bearings are rusted or worn, they may squeal, or scrape loudly during the drying cycle. If this is the problem, replace the fan motor. Alternatively, the fan blade may be loose. If so, you need to replace it.
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
Your dishwasher is siphoning the water out. The drain hose should turn upward, nearly to the bottom side of the counter top, before it attaches to the drain or disposal. If it has an independant drain it still needs the rise and also needs an air break to stop the siphoning.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
Locked rotor on the bottom of the machine. If you remove the bottom plate of the dishwasher where the water valve and electrical hook up is the motor is right there. If the rotor on the motor is locked up the dishwasher will not drain.. If you take a screwdriver and spin the rotor on the back of the motor it may release the rotor. If it does not spin freely then you will need to replace it. Make sure to unplug the dishwasher before doing any repairs to it.
Hope this helped you some
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
There is a thermal fuse located in the control panel inside the door. It could be blown, but if so what caused it. they come with a retrofit pigtail to prevent loose connectins on the fuse. You may have a short somewhere in the dryer, and just blow the fuse again. Could be bad motor,fill valve, or heater, or even the control board. I'd try one fuse first.
Posted on Jul 26, 2010
Testimonial: "yes! that was it! I bypassed it for now and tested it and it works. I will replace the fuse tomorrow. Thank you. you saved me $$$."
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