Question about KitchenAid 23 in. KUDD01DPPA Stainless Steel Dishwasher

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Kudd01dppa "beeps" during cycles

I recently replaced both lids, bottom o-rings and bottom motor. The first time I used it after that, both top and bottom ran fine. Second time, I ran only the top. At about the point where the wash cycle and draining were finished, it beeped exactly like it does when you first open one of the drawers (the trilling " da, da, da, dot) only one time then it stopped and continued trying to drain water. This stop and start draining happened four or five more times then finally it went to dry cycle with no other beeps until it was actually finished (the three long beeps). What else needs to be replaced?

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Buzzing noise and won't clean

An aging water-inlet valve can sometimes fail slowly, rather than all at once. It can shudder on and off rapidly, causing the incoming water lines to shake, rumble, and rattle--sometimes violently. If yours is doing this, replace the inlet valve.or may be its due to
Heater fanIf the heater fan bearings are rusted or worn, they may squeal, or scrape loudly during the drying cycle. If this is the problem, replace the fan motor. Alternatively, the fan blade may be loose. If so, you need to replace it.

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

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SOURCE: Dishwasher stopped working. Suspect electronics issue.

An expert from another site says it's a faulty control panel and may need new actuators.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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SOURCE: KitchenAid dishwasher allows water to drain while washing

Your dishwasher is siphoning the water out. The drain hose should turn upward, nearly to the bottom side of the counter top, before it attaches to the drain or disposal. If it has an independant drain it still needs the rise and also needs an air break to stop the siphoning.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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SOURCE: dishwasher is not draining during washing cycle.

Locked rotor on the bottom of the machine. If you remove the bottom plate of the dishwasher where the water valve and electrical hook up is the motor is right there. If the rotor on the motor is locked up the dishwasher will not drain.. If you take a screwdriver and spin the rotor on the back of the motor it may release the rotor. If it does not spin freely then you will need to replace it. Make sure to unplug the dishwasher before doing any repairs to it.

Hope this helped you some

Dave

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

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SOURCE: No lights on, didnt complete the drain cycle, stopped working now

There is a thermal fuse located in the control panel inside the door. It could be blown, but if so what caused it. they come with a retrofit pigtail to prevent loose connectins on the fuse. You may have a short somewhere in the dryer, and just blow the fuse again. Could be bad motor,fill valve, or heater, or even the control board. I'd try one fuse first.

Posted on Jul 26, 2010

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I have a two drawer KitchenAid KUDD01DPPA. Upon pushing the start button on either drawer the dishwashers will start. then within a minute they turn red and beep non stop and the dishwashers do not run


Usually this indicates a leak. Open the bottom drawer and look underneath and behind it in the base of the frame and see if there is water sitting in there. If so, dry it out with towels. Once all the water is dried out run the dishwasher again. If the same thing happens and the water returns you will have to find the source of the leak. Sometimes its just a temporary leak from a tall item obstructing the lids from closing and sealing all the way.

Feb 27, 2015 | KitchenAid 23 in. KUDD01DPPA Stainless...

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Rinse light illuminated continuous beep. is there a way i can fix this- no money for repairman thanks


The problem is the flood switch is activated. This a an electrical switch located in the bottom of the dishwasher. I have seen this problem with my dishwsasher and is normally caused by loading something into one of the drawers that is just too tall. This will prevent the lid from closing fully during the runn cycle and ppour water to the bottom.

Open the lower drawer and remove. Use towels to sop up the water around the circuit board in the bottom. There is a white cover over it that you will want to remove as well. it is easly put back on. Wait 24 hours until the whole thing is dry the power it on and all should be good. we have some square plates that must be loaded inthe right half of the drawer or this problem occurs.

Good luck.

Charles

Dec 10, 2010 | KitchenAid 23 in. KUDD01DPPA Stainless...

1 Answer

The washer recently began producing a high pitch squeek during the washing cycle, and a louder than normal sound during the spin cycle.


The motor Carriage is not pulling back fast/far enough special poly lube you can use other lube just wont last long or will deteriorate wheels quickly. What you can do is set for spin, hold open lid slightly with one hand pull back on motor slightly. If sound stops you got it. Other wise sounds like mount stem may need replacing if you do also replace spin bearing this is under basket and outer tub on top of transmission.

Nov 25, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Hi f1 label is lit up in red on both washers and is making a alarm sound wont turn off


F1 = The flood switch has been activated for more than six seconds.

The flood switch is in the bottom of the whole unit, so it will have water in the tray of the carcass.
It will dry out eventually (or you can pull out the unit and tip the unit to empty the water), then the unit will stop beeping. However, it will just do it again unless you address the cause, which is any of the following:

Inlet hose to inlet valve connection loose
Inlet valve body leak
Damage to the fill or drain hoses
Heater plate damage (chipped enamel)
Seals/O Rings (pinched, contaminated or poor join)
Dispenser (seal, diverter valve or weld leak)
Lid area (lid motors not functioning correctly, lid off yoke or foreign object interfering with lid seal).

It's most often the last one.
A 603 drawer can leak - and cause an F1 - just during normal use.
Because the lid comes down after shutting the draw, if the user has stacked a pan or utensil in the draw that almost touches the top, it can prevent the lid from coming down and making the seal. So it will leak just for that wash.

This scenario never happened with the 601 models because they didn't have a lid that came down to make a seal. (They solved one problem but caused another!)

Alternatively...
On a 603 model, the lids get wound down when you close the draw. It's possibly a dead lid-seal motor. There are 2 worm-drive motors on either side, connecting to the lid via a yoke. F&P cocked up with the earlier 603 and used poor quality motor drives. These earlier inferior ones are beige in colour, whereas F&P recommend replacing with a superior black coloured drive. If yours are beige, it's quite likely that you might need to replace both or just one.



Nov 03, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

I have a two drawer integrated unit, 7 years old, no problems up to now. Both units started beeping; I disconnected the electrical source. Was able to start the top unit after some time messing with the...


Most likely a F1 fault which means that the Mains Filter board on the bottom pan has detected water, a leak. There are, unfortunately, a few possibilities of the cause of this. Most likely it is bad lid motors (the motors that lift and pull down the lid to seal the drawers) or a broken Link Support. This is the plastic piece that hold all the hoses and wiring out of the way when you open and shut the drawers. A portion of this Link breaks free and gets lodged in between the drawer and the lid causing water to pour out into the lower pan when the unit is running. You'll need to have a Tech out to take a look at it, if you can find one. Good luck.

Sep 22, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

Both drawers are stuck in the on position, both


The water sensor is malfunctioning. It believes that there is still water, so the pumps run and the washer will not continue on its cycle. replace the water sensor, or dry it out so it functions properly

May 15, 2010 | KitchenAid 23 in. KUDD01DPPA Stainless...

2 Answers

Frigidaire FWS833AS1 - My washing machine recently stopped and wouldn't start spinning during the wash cycle.It will drain, just not spin. Also, it will do the wash and rinse cycles if set manually but...


Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. The smell might be due to burning of lid switch. If the washer isn't spinning then it might be dueto a Lid switch or due to a bad motor coupler. You can check for the lid switch& replace it--

First unplug the washing machine. Then remove the two screws that hold the top consolein place; these are located in back of the main console (where the dials are).Once removed, the entire console swivels back, exposing the wiresunderneath.

After this unplug the wiring harness that is connected to the washing machinetop flat surface. Now remove the two s-shaped brackets with a screwdriver byprying underneath. This will allow you to remove the main sheet metal framearound the washing machine. The lid switch assembly is located under the topconsole. Now, remove it and replace with the new assembly and put it backtogether.

Please look this schematicfor lid switch location(part # 50)--
269bdab.gif

You can buy the lid switch from this link--
Frigidaire FWS833AS1 Lid switch/assembly
Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Oct 16, 2009 | Frigidaire FWS833A Top Load Washer

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On spin cycle, the drum will not spin


You have a bad coupling. It is between the transmission and the motor.

Jul 14, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

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Maytag Atlantis 7700 - Noisy agitation/wash cycle from motor


Your drive motor may be fine. Check the water pump that is located in the back behind the small metal door on the left bottom corner and see if thats where your noise/water is coming from. These extraction pumps have bearings casing that gets mangled and locked up. Look right above the flywheel that the belt rides on in the W-pump.

May 09, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6451 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Fisher paykel dish drawer


The motor impeller is located inside the tub.
To remove/inspect:
1. Remove dishrack and filter
2. Twist the strainer lock ring counterclockwise to disengage.
3. Lift and remove strainer and lock ring assembly
4. Remove impeller, inspect for damage and/or debris in sump.
Hope this helps....

The F1 code is retained in memory as the most recent fault (may have happened awhile ago) and may not be related to the current issue.
However FYI

F1 code can be caused by several things:
1. Defective lid motor(s)...Each drawer has two lid motors that pull the lid tight to the drawer when the cycle is started. (this was very common on early models)
2. Something too tall was placed in the drawer preventing the lid from closing completely.
OR
3. (only seen this once) the drain hose developed a crack causing water to leak only when draining.

Jun 16, 2008 | Dishwashers

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