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No Red Power Light 4 AMP fuse blows - Sylvania LC320SL8 Television

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What cause 3 amp fuse to keep blowing when power in turn on goodman air handler


The 3 amp fuse is in the red low voltage (24 volt) thermostat wire
and only gets power when the thermostat is set to turn on heat or a/c It should be connected to the red wire from the thermostat

Nov 13, 2014 | Goodman Manufacturing Goodman ARUF48D14...

1 Answer

Schematic to driver side fuse box


Cavity Fuse Description
1) 15 Amp Blue Horn Relay, Power Sunroof
Relay, Power Window Relay
2) 10 Amp Red Rear Fog Lights (Export Only)
3) 20 Amp Yellow Cigar Lighter
4) 10 Amp Red Headlight Low Beam Right
5) 10 Amp Red Headlight Low Beam Left
6) 20 Amp Yellow Body Control Module/Power Door Locks
7 )10 Amp Red Left Park Light/Left Tail Lamp/License Plate Lamp
8) Spare
9) 10 Amp Red Right Park Light/RightTail Lamp/License Plate Lamp/Cluster
10) Spare Cavity Fuse Description
11) 15 Amp Blue Flasher
12) 15 Amp Blue Stop Lights
13) 10 Amp Red Body Control Module/CMTC/Cluster/Pass. Airbag On,Off Indicator, Auto Daylight
Mirror/Light Bar Switch (Renegade Only)
14) 10 Amp Red PDC Fuel Pump/AC Clutch,
Starter Relay/Engine
Controller/Transmission
Controller (Diesel Only)
15) Spare
16) 20 Amp Yellow Power Outlet (Rear)
17) 15 Amp Blue Rear Wiper
18) 20 Amp Yellow Radio Choke & Relay
Cavity Fuse Description
19 20 Amp Yellow
Frt Fog Lights/Trailer Tow
Stop and Turn Lights
20 Spare
21 10 Amp Red Radio
22 20 Amp Yellow
Power Sunroof Relay/
Antenna Module (Export
Only)
23 Spare
24 10 Amp Red PDC Blower Motor
25 10 Amp Red Heated Seat Switches/HVAC
Control Head/Trailer Tow
Battery Charge
26 10 Amp Red Headlight High Beam Right
27 10 Amp Red Headlight High Beam Left
28 Spare
29 10 Amp Red Heated Mirrors/Rear Window
Defroster Indicator
Cavity Fuse Description
30 15 Amp Blue Heated Seat Module
31 Spare
32 10 Amp Red Wiper Switch/Front and
Rear Wipers
33 10 Amp Red SKIM Module/Data Link
Connector
34 15 Amp Blue Body Control Module/
Cluster/Interior Lights,
Hands Free Module/Radio/
CMTC/ITM Module & Siren
(Export Only)
35 Spare
36 10 Amp Red Airbag Control Module/
Occupation Classification
Module (Right Front Seat)
37 10 Amp Red Airbag Control Module
38 10 Amp Red ABS Controller/Shifter Assembly
39 10 Amp Red Hazard Flasher (Turn
Signals)/Backup Lamp
Switch (Manual Transmission
Only)/Transmission Range
Switch (Automatic Transmis

May 23, 2011 | 2005 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer

2006 F150 no brakes light all other lights work


Does this include the CHMSL ( Center High Mount Stop Lamp ) ?
The turn signals work fine when you say all other lights work ?

If so could be 2 things.
1. The BPP ( Brake Pedal Position ) Switch
1.1. The BPP has 4 wires on it
1.1.1. Tan w/ Red stripe & Pink w/ Light Green stripe are the shift interlock
1.1.2. Light Green w/ red stripe & Light Green wires are the Brake lamp part of the BPP.

sscullys_92.jpg
When you have the brake off, the Light Green w/ Red stripe wire should have power on it ( from fuse #2 ) and when you press on the brake pedal, the Light green wire should also have power.
- If only the Light green w/ red stripe wire has power with the brake on and off, and the Light green wire never has power, the BPP switch needs to be replaced.
- If the Light Green wire does not have power ( and you are use of the ground you are testing with ) fuse #2 is blown.

- The fuse for the brake lamps ( Fuse #2 in the cab fuse panel ).
-- This is if the CHMSL is also not functioning

Jan 26, 2011 | 2006 Ford F-150

3 Answers

Brake lights not working even though the brake peddle is pushed down The switch still goes in and out. Fuse box has some fuses missing. The fuse box does not have a desription on every plug of what it is...


Here are the numbers on your fuseblock and fuses coresponding to the number that is on your fuse block.
1-20 amp (yellow)
Hazard flasher
2-10 amp (red)
back up lights, A/C clutch cycling Switch
3-30 amp (green)
Power windows
4-30 amp (yellow)
A/C or heater blower motor
5-20 amp (yellow)
Panel Lights, Side marker lights, Park, Taillights, Clock & radio display Intensity, License & panel lights.
#6-10 amp (red)
Stoplight, buzzers, Anti-lock brake module
#7-15 amp (lt. Blue)
Tachometer, horn & Relay
#8-8 amp (yellow)
Power Door locks
#9-10 amp (red)
Radio
#10-10 amp (red)
Rear Wheel Anti-lock module, Turn Signals
#11-20 amp (Yellow)
Windshield wiper & washers
#12-15 amp ( LT. Blue)
Cigarette Lighter
#13-5 amp (tan)
Speed Control, warning buzzers, gauges, indicator lights
#14-5 amp (tan)
Time/delay relay & under-hood light, dome light, power mirrors, readio & clock Memory, Interior lights, reading lights
#15-blank
Not used
#16-4 amp (pink)
Radio Lights & overdrive switch light 1989-91, Cluster lights, Cigarette Lighter light & as tray light, Cluster lights, A/C & heater controls.
#17-relay
Hazard Flasher warning
#18-relay
Relay
#19-Circuit breaker
#20-relay
Turn signal Flasher
#21-buzzer
Warning
#22-Relay
Horn

Aug 04, 2009 | 1991 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

Red standby light does not come on


a black fuse means really excess current.if it is the ac mains fuse be careful.i am is 120 watts of power different.if it is the dc fuse,try a slow blow fuse with the same rating. it will allow more dynamics from movies ect.

Jun 12, 2009 | Athena AS-P4000 Subwoofer

3 Answers

Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, Blown Fused F850+F852


Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
********
Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001

Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852

Symptoms January, 2009:

  • Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
  • Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
    • Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
    • Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
  • Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
    • Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
  • Possible related note: Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
  • Fuses F850 and F852 found blown

Repairs Made:
  • PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
    • There are two main power supply capacitors in this set. They are C-809 and C-810. One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time. When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
    • Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
      • I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
      • Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
      • Used a fast blow 2 Amp for F852.
  • PD0073 SIGNAL Board
    • Re-soldered Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps
    • Re-soldered adjacent pads that looks suspicious

Total Cost to Repair about $10
  • Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
  • Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
  • Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
  • Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
  • Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities. One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU! Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.

Jan 04, 2009 | Toshiba 57H81 57" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Blows the 15 amp fuse


if you live in a town that has a remote starter installation shop you can just go there and buy a new pinswitch for around 6 dollars i recomend changing the location of it under the hood
and if your red power wire has only 15 amps of protection you should switch it for a 30 amp fuse thats the minimum that is going to be pulled when the unit cranks the starter wire so the 15 will deffinately melt or blow and check to insure the ground is perfectly connected (in the world of current vs. resistance the weakest point will give in first...

Dec 20, 2008 | Bulldog Remote Starter & T-Harness Kit for...

1 Answer

4a fuse blown


1)pull chassis.remove power PCB==the one with large heatsink w/convergence IC's on it 2)Observe four regulators also on same heatsink Remove solder from all reg. pins-clean PCB 3)Resolder 4)solder any/all bad connects 5)replace 4 amp fuse 6)reassemble & test

Oct 05, 2007 | Pioneer SD-533HD5 53" Rear Projection HDTV

4 Answers

Can't get full power on


I have this exact same issue; search engine took me here. I have been experiencing this problem for about a year now. When you power on, the RED standby light goes out, the power light turned GREEN, you might hear a small pop sound, then the RED standby light goes back on. YOU HAVE BLOWN A FUSE. My problem is this is occuring much more frequently now and I'm going through fused like crazy. So I'm looking for a long term solution. To replace the fuse, turn off the standby power switch on the front. Unplug the power cable. Open the back panel. All logic and power modules are on the bottom of the cabinet. Therer is a large power module in the middle. In the middle of this module are 3 fuses. The one that typically blows is the one in the middle. It's a 5 amp fuse, but double check the rating before replacing. Good luck, Mark

Aug 05, 2007 | Pioneer SD-643HD5 64" Rear Projection...

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