Question about Windchaser Outdoor Misting Fan WC161 Stand (Pedestal)

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The plastic bracket between the stand and rotating head has broken and needs to be replaced. Where can I find the part?

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This part for this fan is not available online you to buy have to call them or email

Monday through Friday, between 8:30 am - 4:30 pm PST,
Toll Free 1-800-405-2943 Inside the US
1-310-827-8615 Outside the US
Email : parts@windchaserproducts.com

Thanks
Kevin

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Get Your Samsung Syncmaster 245bw 24in monitor to rotate


Samsung ships this monitor in two flavors according to my converstation with L2 tech support, the stand that rotates and the one that does not. According to L2, I have the one that supposedly does not, as the one that does says so on the outer carton. But the stand has a round mount that attaches to a 200 x100 mounting hole bracket that attaches to the back of the monitor. But out of the box even with about 20 pounds of force it only rotates about 3 degrees clockwise or counter clockwise and then hits a hard stop (like a pin) and there is no release button. You cannot rotate it....yet. So here is the trick. You need to remove the 4 screws that hold the mount to the back of the monitor and remove it from the mount. Now when you look at the rotate mechanism you we see a phillips head lock screw....remove it. Remount the monitor and now it will rotate as it was designed to do. My guess is that when Samsung sells this monitor with the "optional rotate" feature, they get a few more bucks for it! Hope this helps...BBRAND.

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Replacing a damaged top lid from a viking designer se


Yes it is loose in there on the plastic. The pressure from the other side holds it in place. You could install a small screw if you want to make sure it stays in place.

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Want camera that can rotate a video taken up side down.


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1 Answer

Stihl FS 44 weedeater/trimmer and I can't get the head off to repair/replace broken plastic pieces. The line spool is off but I need to remove the head itself and I can't find the manual


Hi, there is a hole down through the top of the gear head. Place a pin punch or small screw driver down through the hole and rotate the head until it locks. Then grasp the head firmly and undo it (left hand thread). Hope this helps, regards Phil.

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The brush wont rotate!!!! how can i fix that??? It stated smoking! I opened it and found the band broken. I replaced it and the brush will not rotate! why


I had the exact same thing happen to me. Take the bottom off, with only using a phillips head, and see if it melted the plastic that lets the beater bar rotate. If so, just replace the obvious parts damaged by going to Bissell.com. I just ordered my three parts for around $40.00, including shipping (three parts).

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1 Answer

I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse w/ 2.0; I am going to change the water pump, took off the bracket that holds the engine to chassis support in front of timing cover. The bracket will not come off after...


The engines have 2 timing belts: One belt is the acceleration timing belt that drives the camshaft from the crankshaft. This belt also drives a balance shaft that must be correctly timed to avoid engine vibration (more on this below). The second belt, inboard of the timing belt, is the drive belt for the oil pump and a second balance shaft. Although this belt usually does not break, it should be replaced whenever the timing belt is replaced.
Tools Needed
The following tools are needed as a minimum:
Floor jack.
Jack stands.
Metric combination wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm.
Slotted & Phillips screwdrivers.
Wheel lug wrench.
Now the procedure is as follows:--
Park the car on a level surface. Raise the front off the ground and secure with jack stands.
Remove the drivers side front tire/wheel.
Remove the plastic panel inside the wheel well. This panel is secured to the chassis with some 12mm head bolts up in the wheel well and along the front radiator cross-member. There are also some plastic push fasteners that look like Phillips screws: Unscrew and pull out the plastic screw, and then pop the plastic retainer out of the panel. Keep the panel and hardware together and set aside.
Place a floor jack under the engine oil pan. Make sure you place it so that it does not damage the pan, or put some rags between the two. Raise the jack enough the support the engine.
Remove the drivers side engine bracket. There are 2 (14mm) head nuts on the forward side, and 2 (14mm) head bolts at the other end of the bracket. Once unbolted, remove the 2 nuts securing the engine mount through-bolt to the chassis, and remove the through-bolt after removing its (17mm) retaining nut. Keep all this hardware with the bracket as you pull it out and set it all aside.
Loosen the tension on the alternator, power steering pump and air conditioning compressor belts.
Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump by removing the (4) 10mm head bolts.
Remove the harmonic balancer/pulley from the crankshaft by removing the (4) 10mm head bolts.
Remove the air conditioning belt tensioner bracket/assembly on the 2.0 engines by removing the (3) 12mm attach bolts.
FOR more detailed help:--
Mitsubishi Eclipse 1998 Repair Guide 
Engine
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Relieve the fuel system pressure.
If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
If equipped, remove the engine under cover.
Matchmark the hood and hinges and remove the hood assembly. Remove the air cleaner assembly and all adjoining air intake duct work.
Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container, then remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir and inter-cooler. 
If equipped with AWD, remove the trans axle and transfer case. 
Tag and detach the following components: accelerator cable, heater hoses, brake vacuum hose, connection for vacuum hoses, high pressure fuel line, fuel return line, oxygen sensor connection, coolant temperature gauge connection, coolant temperature sensor connector, connection for thermo switch sensor, if equipped with automatic transaxle, the connection for the idle speed control, motor position sensor connector, throttle position sensor connector, EGR temperature sensor connection (California vehicles), fuel injector connectors, power transistor connector, ignition coil connector, condenser and noise filter connector, distributor and control harness, connections for the alternator and oil pressure switch wires.
If equipped, with A/C, remove the A/C drive belt and the compressor. Leave the A/C lines attached. Do NOT discharge the system. Wire the compressor aside.
Remove the power steering pump and wire aside.
Remove the exhaust manifold-to-head pipe nuts. Discard the gasket and replace with a new one during installation.
Attach a hoist to the engine and take up the engine weight. Remove the engine mount bracket. Remove any torque control brackets (roll stoppers). Note that some engine mount pieces have arrows on them for proper assembly. Double check that all cables, hoses, harness connectors, etc., are disconnected from the engine. Lift the engine slowly from the engine compartment.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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2 Answers

Need instructions on how to change the lifters in my 1998 Chevy S10 2.2L


Please don't forget to rate!!!!

2.2L Engine When installing new lifters, a pre-lube should always be applied to the lifter body. It is also a good idea to prime hydraulic lifters by submerging them in clean engine oil and depressing the plunger using an old pushrod. This allows the internal components of the hydraulic lifter to coat with oil before initial operation in the engine. All lifters should be replaced when a new camshaft is installed.
If any valve train components (lifters, pushrods, rocker arms) are to be reused, they must be tagged or arranged during removal to assure installation in their original locations.
  1. Remove the rocker arm cover.
  2. Remove the cylinder head assembly from the engine.
  3. Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets, then remove the brackets.
  4. Remove the hydraulic roller lifters from the bores.
  5. Inspect the lifter and lifter bore for wear and scuffing. Examine the roller for freedom of movement and/or flat spots on the roller surface.

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Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets ...


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... then remove the anti-rotation brackets


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The lifters are located in bores in the engine block


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Use a lifter removal tool to remove the lifters from the bore

To install:
If installing a new lifter, coat the lifter body with a suitable camshaft pre-lube
  1. Install each hydraulic lifter to its bore being careful to align the flat sides (top) of the lifters with the flat sides of the anti-rotation brackets. When properly installed the flat sides of each lifter are aligned parallel to the anti-rotation bracket. The roller at the bottom of the lifter is parallel to the camshaft lobe.
Make sure to properly align and install each lifter as improper installation of the lifters or brackets could result in engine damage.
  1. Install the anti-rotation bracket retaining bolts and tighten to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
  2. Install the cylinder head.
  3. Install the rocker arm cover.

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Removing the hydraulic roller lifter from the 2.2L engine

Feb 06, 2010 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Mixer turns on but the beater doesn't rotate


Remove the metalic ring around the mixing head. Push down on it with a flat head screwdriver...
Remove the pin from the mix shaft.
Pull down on the mixer head. Inspect the gears.
If nothing wrong here, disassemble completely and inspect drive gears. Something is broke and needs replaced. You need to find it first, then take that broken part to the dealer to get a new one. Good luck

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