Question about Maytag M6Q10F2A Air Conditioner
After a couple hours of use, sometimes a steady stream of water will come out the front of the unit. we turn it off when we're not home and when we do use it, we use the energy save and try not to adjust the temperature to low
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
The water pump recirculates water during the wash cycle and pumps it out for the spin cycle. Some washers use the recirculation to mix and distribute add-ins like bleach or fabric softener. In some models the spin cycle starts while the water is still in the tub; others drain first before the spin cycle starts.
For the the initial filling of the tub, the pump is not involved. Filling the tub is the job of the water inlet valve. The rinse cycle is also done with fresh water supplied by the inlet valve, although the water pump may be running simultaneously to remove the water while it is being added.
There are two types of pumps; direct drive and belt drive. The direct drive is mounted directly to the motor, the belt drive is mounted to the chassis. The direct drive style can be opened for complete inspection while belt drive models may or may not be designed to be opened. You can however, still remove the hoses and inspect the ports for a blockage or loose connections that may be causing a leak. Inspecting the pump is fairly easy to do, but you will most likely have to open the washer's cabinet.
Typically one of three problems occur with the pump. The first is a blockage in the pump, often from small items like a sock. The second possibility is that the impeller blades become broken or worn down and cannot move water efficiently. Next, in belt drive models, if the belt is loose or broken it does not turn the pump. Finally, Your pump may leak if there is a loose hose or cracked pump housing.In this case, it must be replaced.
Locate the pump, it will have two, three or four hoses. Label each hose and where it connects. The hoses should each have a wire clamp or a hose clamp with a screw. Pinch the wire tabs together with pliers and wiggle the clamp farther up the hose. Screw style hose clamps are simply loosened by turning the screw, then slide the clamp up the hose. Now remove the hose from the port.
Direct drive pumps have metal clips that hold the cover plate unto the pump assembly. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Pull off the pump's impeller unit and inspect for damage.
Belt drive pumps vary and may or may not be designed to open for repair. Examine the pump to determine whether it can be opened. If it cannot be opened, look into the ports for any blockage.
If there are no blockages, the actual leak may be in a damaged hose or pump housing may be compromised. check all hoses for good connections and good hose integrity. if the hoses are not leaking, replace the pump.
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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