Front burner won't shut off. Have to close at breaker.
I had the RH switchboard control replaced in the back of the stove June 9th. The same problem started again June 18. I paid over $350 for this repair. What could be the problem? It's only the front right burner, large with smaller burner inside. Frigidaire Professional series exlectrolux. The inner burner stays red, while I am using the larger burner. Had to shut off at the breaker.
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You didn't say whether you have a gas or electric oven, or oven & stove. I'll assume you have a stove, just to cover all bases.
First, you should shut down the oven: a gas stove will have a valve on the gas line behind the stove. The valve will either have a red handle or a flat stem that usually has a hole in it. Turn either valve 1/4 turn to shut off gas, use a wrench on the flat stem. An electric stove should be shut off by flipping off the double circuit breaker for it in your electric panel. Do not unplug an electric stove when it is on; this can damage the plug &/or electrocute you.
Most likely the inside of the knob has stripped out. Look at the knob for a hole that has a setscrew in it: a small allen wrench or screwdriver will loosen the setscrew, most knobs don't have them and will pull off. Be careful to use even pressure on two sides of the knob; if you can't pull it off, use two butter knives or flat screw drivers to pry it up enough to get a grip on it.
Look at the center stem on the back of the knob, it will likely be cracked or stripped. Some stems have a D-shaped metal insert that strips out inside the plastic stem. If you have one, pull off a burner knob and compare the stems in the back, if they are the same size, put the burner knob on the shaft for the oven control, and use that knob to turn the oven control off.
If the burner knob won't fit, use your fingers or a pair of pliers (gently) to turn off the oven control shaft. If the shaft stops normally, you can turn the stove back on using either the gas valve or the circuit breaker. If you have a gas stove that doesn't have electric ignition (a clicking noise when you turn on a burner) you may need to re-light the pilots for the burners. Lift the covers off the burners to re-light the pilots.
If you have succeeded in turning off the oven, you need a new knob -- you can get one at an appliance parts store or maybe a hardware store. If the oven control did not turn off normally, I would leave the oven/stove turned off: the control itself will need to be replaced by a qualified repair person.
The same thing happened to me about a week ago. I was preheating our electric oven, heard a very loud bang/pop. Checked and the oven had PF (power failure) I went downstairs and the breaker was tripped. Came back upstairs and to look at stove, the burners are working fine so I continued to preheat oven after a half an hour the oven was only slightly warm. Did you ever find out what was wrong?
While the stove is unplugged remove the bad burner from the stove and set the bad burner's control knob to the "OFF" position. Now plug the stove back in. If there is a problem it should trigger the breaker and shut off the stove. If you are not comfortable doing this you might want to ask someone.
The explosion was due to a shorted burner element and once it is removed there shouldn't be any more problems. I hope this was helpful and I hope you get your stove going again.
This stove uses a special switch that turns one way for the large burner and the other way for the smaller burner. I was not aware that this had a seperate simmer burner on it, however. I think you using the wrong term there.
This is not computer controlled--the only computer on it should be the oven switch. I would assume that you need to replace the switch for the dual-size burner. If you take your model number in to Sears, or log onto Sears dot com, you should be able to get to the PARTS DIRECT web site on the computer, and if they ever sold that model you should be able to pull up a parts breakdown with expanded drawing and part numbers and prices. You should be able to buy the part from them. The part should be virtually the same as ANY recent model Frigidaire or Kenmore stove with the same style burner. This should be a very easy repair for you to make yourself, assuming that you know a little about working with electricity--remember, this stove USES 220 VOLTS!
Check out all of the wiring coming into the switch and going from the switch to the burner to be sure that there is not a short!
If you have one of the older smooth surface stoves, where the burners are part of the ceramic top, all bets are off, but anything you bought new in the last half-dozen years, should have a separate burner underneath a glass top, and the repair should be simple. Even with the older stove, it is still likely the switch, and should be no problem.
If the phenomenon is intermittent, and you get it going and coming as you restart the oven, then it is likely a bad wiring or a bad connection. Ensure first that the circuit breaker is ok and well in place, then proceed testing wirings. Check connectors to buners, hobs, and controls panel. If all wirings and connections are OK, the what reamins is a faulty control panel or a fault on some of the knob controls.