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If you mean that your OUTDOOR AIR CONDITIONER FAN MOTOR is blowing AND no air is coming out of the vents within your house, it clearly indicates to me that 1 of 2 things are wrong.
Either (1) your INDOOR AIR HANDLER is NOT running or (2) the INDOOR AIR HANDLER is running but your PLENUM has come apart.
If your INDOOR AIR HANDLER UNIT is NOT running, it could simply be the circuit breaker is OFF/TRIPPED and simply needs to be turned OFF; then turned ON. If that does not FIX your problem, then it is most likely your 5 micro-farad run capacitor for your indoor fan motor needs to be replaced. It will prevent your indoor fan motor from energizing. Worst case scenario would be your INDOOR FAN MOTOR has windings burnt and needs to be replaced. If your indoor air handling unit is equipped with a CONDENSATE VALVE CUT-OFF SWITCH, check to see if your drain pan is filled, thus energizing the switch. If the CONDENSATE VALVE CUT-OFF SWITCH is ENERGIZED, it will prevent the AIR HANDLER FROM energizing. That is the design and the reason for this valve.
the dual run capacitor is bad located in main panel of unit size of small red bull can it will be swelled up on top indicating it bad get on at electric motor or electric supply house most ac stores wont sell it has a rating like 35/5 370
Your message is a bit confusing but since there is a vehicle model shown, I'll assume that is the A/C causing problems.If the blower does not push air on either heating or A/C settings, the bearings of the motor may have gotten gummy and are not allowing the motor to spin up.
Check the different speed settings for the blower, preferably with the controls set to heating since there are additional controls when on A/C that can confuse troubleshooting.
If the highest speed is working, then the speed control resistor has failed.
If it does not move air regardless of setting, then the blower motor has failed or the bearings sticky.
If you have added gas to your home A/C, I hope you know which gas is used (R-22- NOT R-134 as in cars) and have not overcharged it since that can caused very high pressures that can damage your system.
Different systems also have different intake and output pressures with which the compressor and other system components work best.
i have the same problem on my 84 grand prix..ther is black wire that heat runs through i broke my cause it was so old an dry rotted an the heat stoped coming out the vents but comes through the dash by the winshield
You need to have your ducts balanced. It takes special equipment and expertise. They block some and open some ducts so the air flow is even throughout! You could just partially block or close the vents in the center and you might get more heat in the end of the runs. Also if the ducts are running in unconditioned air, like under the house or in the attic. You could be losing heat by not having insulation on the ducts. Try wrapping them. Hope that helps.
Sounds like it could be a very weak run capacitor on the blower motor. Run capacitors are sized specifically to the needs of the motor. When a run cap gets weak, the motor trys to compensate for it by drawing more power. More power draw = more heat in the motor, then the motor will overheat and shut off to protect itself. When the motor cools off it will automatically restart and run until it overheats again. Keep in mind that I am a technician that normally diagnoses equipment in a hands on manner. There are many practices and concepts that transcend all air conditioning systems but it is a constantly evolving industry. I live in south eastern WA and I don't see Amana units except as window units. It is possible to have something else causing this problem (faulty thermostat, failing thermal relay(if used), problem with electronic controls(if used)) there are a lot of potential variables