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One of my hvac dampers is stuck open

Damper that controls upstairs air flow is stuck open. is a honeywell system installed in 1993. 2-zone system.

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Zoned forced air systems that use multiple thermostats that can start a single heating and cooling unit from each stat and condition just that space that called it, are conditioned by the auto damper you are referring to. These dampers are normally spring closed and driven open using a small 24 volt motor (Called an Actuator or Operator) connected to the stat that operates the damper motor with a relay. Disconnect the damper crank arm and linkage between the damper and its motor and see if the damper rotates closed. See if the damper will move freely. Power and remove power from the motor to see if it works. Doing these things will probably find the problem. Good Luck. Roger

Posted on Apr 27, 2014

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How do I connect a 24v damper motor with 6 colored wires red white yellow green blue black to NO COM NC terminals.


Choose two colors of the thermostat wire, and connect them to the NO and COM and connect them to the zone control board leads for the zone intended. Almost all zone valves spring return open when deenergized. So ensure the zone valve is open with the system is off. At the base of zone valve there is a set screw that needs to engage the damper valve shaft in the open position with the motor in the spring release position. Most zone valve are 90 degree moment from full open to full shut. If you have a Carrier zone valve, they go full open to full shut in 45 degrees of motion. Your open stop need to be set so the valve stops in the full stop position.
To help understand the operation of a zone system, say you have 2 zone system and zone 1 thermostat initiates a heat or cool demand. Zone 2 valves energizes and shuts and zone 1 stays open and allow air to heat/ cool zone 1. If zone 2 thermostat simultaniously initiates the same heat/cool demand, the zone 2 valve opens and both zone heat/cool. When either thermostat is satisfied the opposite zone valve closes and when both thermostat are satisfied both zone valves open.
Hope this helps you understand zone operation. The same works for higher multizone systems.

Jul 27, 2014 | Honeywell Motorized Small Rectangular Hvac...

1 Answer

2011 jeep liberty heater blows cold air


gas not diesel right?
what engine? option? size?
there are only 3 causes (and many parts to fail)
  1. engine coolant not hot at 180F or more.
  2. said coolant not flowing Through heater core (feel the 2 hoses?)
  3. air not flowing over heater coil. , damper stuck closed?

once the above is found.we can diagnose why?

the FSM covers all this , in the HVAC chapter.
say engine is hot, and core is hot.
you check the damper and its stuck closed.
?
1: controls not telling damper to move. (falling)
2: damper motor bad. (called the HVAC acuator by jeep)

on this new of car, we must scan it, the scan tool that supports
jeeps will set HVAC errors aplenty.
my innova 3160 can do that.

my FSM dont do that new a car.

or
engine not hot
heater core not hot
or damper door stuck closed on core, blocking heat.

Mar 21, 2014 | 2011 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer

Damper control


Dampers in the basement should be opened.

Feb 13, 2014 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Which direction should dampers be in order for the air to flow down? I bought a new house and all the hot air seems to be upstairs while it's freezing in the basement.


If you look at the end of most dampers, there is a line on the end of the shaft. this line when it is in line with the duct it is open, and when it is 90 degrees to duct it is closed. for most damper and motor, when it rotates clockwise it goes to open. and counterclockwise it shuts. default position on zone systems is open, most damper motor spring return to open. There is a allen set screw that anchors the motor to the shaft. to set up the motor and shaft, turn power off, unset set screw and rotate damper ccw and reanchor the set screw, repeat for all damper and associated motors.

Feb 13, 2014 | Goodman Manufacturing Hvac Direct R410A...

1 Answer

Zone cooling not delivering adequate air to both zones simultaneo


You need to have someone evaluate the ductwork for the home. With all zones calling, there should be an even balance of airflow. And when only one zone is calling, there should not be the tornado effect you describe.

The dampers feeding each zone may be of the wrong size. It also sounds as though you are also having a problem with your bypass damper. This damper is designed to bypass excess air when only one zone is calling. It is operated typically off the airflow alone.

Have it check out. You definitely have a problem. I would recommend getting it looked at by a company other than the installing company to remove any bias judgment or diagnosis.

Jul 31, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Manual air duct damper installation


Go down to where the ducts come out of the furnace. Identify the line you want to install damper. Open duct and drill two holes directly across from each other. Take your damper and undo the nut and washer on the one end and install in the holes you just drilled. Reattach the washer and nut and now re connect the duct seal it with duct tape and you will be good to go.

If you have 6 inch ducts get a 6 inch damper. But be sure to do everything at the beginning on the duct as to divert air to other ducts.

I have to tell you that changing your air flow could develop problems if you do very many ducts. So be very aware of what you doing. All systems are put in with air flow in mind.

May 04, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Heating blowing coo air downstairs and warm upstairs?


Some of this depends on where the air handler/furnace is located. Most often in two story houses, it's in the attic upstairs, or in a closet upstairs. A duct routes air from the furnace to the downstairs supply duct, so it is a distance from the air handler.
When the unit first initiates a heating cycle, that duct is going to be full of cool air, and the duct itself will be cool. So the furnace has to run long enough to push the cool air out, as well as warm the duct up, before your going to feel warm air at the registers downstairs.

Keep in mind, heat rises. And, your thermostat only monitors the immediate area where it's located. In your case, upstairs.
Two story houses are problematic because of this. And one way around it is to have a damper system installed that distributes the air upstairs or downstairs based on a thermostat located in those spaces. There would be 2 dampers, and 2 thermostats (one upstairs, one downstairs). Each stat would control a damper, and the call for heat or cooling.

Let me know if you would like to consider a system like this, and I can point you to components to use. I've put several system like this in.

Jan 26, 2009 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Installing new furnace with two zones


You will need a control to operate motorized zone dampers. In the ductwork, you will install a damper in each line going into the area you want zoned. If you have air conditioning you will also require a barometric relief damper that allows air to pass thru the ductwork and not restrict air over your A/C coil. Common controls are made by Honeywell and EWC.

If you already have the control module, you will run two or three (low voltage) wires from each motorized damper back to the control. Your thermostat wires (also low voltage) will run from each thermostat to the control module and connect to a zone relay. Match each zone by number. You will need to run power to the control module that will provide power to the thermostats as well as the motorized damper. Check on the reverse side of the control module and/or check on the web to find the wiring diagram.

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1 Answer

Heat on bottom floor no heat on top floor


pretty vague, but i'll give it a shot. i assume that your upper and lower floors are heated by the same unit. of course if your not sure you better check to see if there is a second t stat for up stairs in case there is a second unit that heats it. there may also be a zoning system that seals off upstairs ducts unless the zone stat for that area is calling for heat. so look for a second stat upstairs if you think it may be zoned. now to you original question. lets assume the unit is not zoned and only one unit heats both. then you may have a mechanical damper in the ductwork ,usually located close to the indoor blower that shifts to force more air upstairs in summer and more air downstairs in winter, these can usually be shifted as needed to control air to upper lower and are usually marked upstairs dornstairs etc. if you have no dampers etc, then you have reason to suspect the ductwork has come apart or been crushed before it gets upstairs. you'll have to go up or under the house etc and try to find duct problems.good luck

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1 Answer

Honeywell TZ-4 Misbehaving


there is a "zone a lone" switch on the upper right side of the panel. Make sure it is in the "occupied" position. I believe that is up. If that doesn't work reply back.

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