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Bosche KE62E218 Freezing up then alarming both Fans running not short of gas do u Have u Got sensor ohm testing numbers thanks

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A bit more information is needed, what is freezing up? Where is it freezing at. You can contact Bosche at: http://www.bosch-home.com/us/ they would be happy to help you.

Posted on May 01, 2014

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localwonder
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SOURCE: F1 error Kenmore gas stove. Replaced module.

HI, This is a board fault code. The entire control board is damaged. Possible logic chip failure. This will require you to replace the entire board. this type of damage is not repairable.

F-1 - Board Failure(also called EOC or clock).

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

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Bosche refrigerator KE62E218 freezing up & alarming both fans running heater ok not short of gas has anyone got the sensor ohm reading


Your drain hose may be cocked you can unplug the refrigerator for a few hours if you can locate the drain hose try pouring some warm water in then clean the fridge and this should help...

Apr 23, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Dryer starts , the gas lights and stays on for about 30 bseconds and turns off the dryer stays running without heat. How can I fix this?


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

This is usually caused by a failed flame sensor PN 338906. Loss of a flame sensor signal (open) will cause the gas valve to shut off in 30 - 42 seconds

How to test the flame sensor:
  • Remove the front panel
  • Open the top panel
  • Leave the drum & belt the way they are, work around them and be careful NOT to get the belt idler pulley disconnected
  • Disconnect the wires from the flame sensor
  • Set your multimeter to read ohms
  • Take a reading between the 2 terminals on the sensor.The reading should be close to 0 ohms but for sure under 1,600 ohms 3 wire type and 500 - 600 ohms for the 2 wire type.
  • If the reading is infinity, the sensor must be replaced

If you can reach the flame sensor through the gas burner access (if so equipped / depending on model) it is even better because you don't have to open the dryer up.

Just note there are 2 types of flame sensor out there. One has 2 terminals and one has 3 terminals. the links below are for the 2 terminal flame sensor.

Sources to purchase the flame sensor:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2910747&pn_=338906

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Flame-Sensor/2681

http://www.searspartsdirect.com and enter part number 338906 search top of page

Video on how to replace the flame sensor



Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Feb 27, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

2 Answers

I have a 1998 Didge Caravan and for some reason the cooling fans will not shut off? Any ideas??


This is a general ideaof how it works. A temp sensor is attached on the engine. When the sensor determines that it needs cooling it send a turn on signal to the ECM or directly to a relay. The sensor using small amounts of current to turn on a larger amount of current to run the fan/fans. This is also shared by the air condioning system which turns on the fans to cool for A/C. Three possibilities: The temp sensor is stuck on/shorted or the rely is shorted or A/C switch is shorted. Most times the switch shorts to ground to activate the the fans. For example the engine temp turn on shorts to ground to cause the fans to come on. If the sensor is shorted all the time it is bad. You can trouble shoot with an OHM meter if your up to it or a good honest mechanic can easly find you problem. Good Luck

Nov 02, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Code F31 comes on when I try to use the oven. What is the issue?


HI, You will need to check the oven sensor probe wires that link the actual sensor to the main control board. Make sure that the contacts are connected properly, and not loose, or corroded. If all the wiring checks out, test the sensor for the correct resistance readings.(you will need a multimeter for this test)

The most common oven sensor should be approximately, 1100 ohms when at room temperature(If it is less than 500 ohms when tested, replace the sensor probe). The others may be close to as follows:

100°F - 1143 ohms
200°F - 1350 ohms
300°F - 1553 ohms
350°F - 1654 ohms
400°F - 1753 ohms
500°F - 1949 ohms

If the sensor test is adequate, and the wiring is Ok at the control, this will lead to a failed control board. replace the control in this case.

Sensor location

The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit or possibly pulled form the inside.


F31 - Shorted Probe connection(temp probe).

Jun 21, 2010 | Kenmore 78812 / 78814 / 78819 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

F1 Relay circuit failure


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
$%^TGF

May 30, 2010 | Dacor Preference RSD30 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Will it cost me ?


Hi,
Dehumidifiers2_bing.gif freezing up can be causes by a few different problems.
Here is a tip that I wrote to help people with the freezing dehumidifier2_bing.gif problem....

Dehumidifier is Freezing up and not working
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4662033-dehumidifier_freezing_up_not_working

heatman101

May 14, 2010 | LG LHD45EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

F1 alarm sounding on the top of the range


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
@$#%$ET

Apr 01, 2010 | Maytag MGR5750 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

89 buick lesabre electric cooling fans


You are off to a good start by testing the fans. Get a repair manual from your nearest autoparts store. I find them invaluable. Most temperature sensors can be tested with an Ohm meter. Or short the two wires together to trigger fans. If it has only one wire then ground it to the frame/body (negative side of battery). If none of that works (with ignition on / car off) then relay is bad. Also turning on the A/C should make the fans come on. Car does not have to be running, key in on position. This would eliminate bad relays or not.

Mar 04, 2010 | 1989 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

The coolant fans on my '99 Buick Regal will only run when the coolant sensor switch is unplugged which then sets off the check engine light. I replaced the sensor yesterday but that hasn't corrected the...


You have a short ot ground and it may be in the computer or a relay, if you have an ohm meter I can tell you how to test it. Post here if you have one or can afford to purchase one for $20.00.

Sep 29, 2009 | 1998 Buick Regal

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