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Hi, Tony engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Changing 50cc Scooter Throttle Cable Part 1 How To Fix Bogging On Scooter Or Moped http://www.scootermasters.com/manuals/TGB%20Service%20Manual%20-%20101S%20(BH1)%20-%20303R-50%20(BR1)%20-%20Delivery%2050%20(BK1).pdf free service manual TGB R50X parts http://absolutelyscooters.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf
Hi, Anonymous you may need to "DIP" the carb and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked.
5. Float needle and seat sticking.
6. Float level too low.
7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
11. Slow fuel jet clogged.
12. Faulty fuel pump.
13. Faulty auto choke or wiring connection.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 50cc Scooter Won stay running HELP scooter wont stay running clean carb TGB Service Manual 101S BH1 303R 50 BR1 Delivery 50 BK1China scooter TGB TAPO Parts Please Check First
The pilot (primary) jets could be partially blocked and check for airleaks either at inlet rubbers or airbox to carb rubbers. My first thought is carb pilot jets. Wouldn't hurt to do a compression check as well.
Ok you will have to remove the seat and the fuel tank.
You will need metric wrenchs and sockets and a stanard screw driver and a philip head screw driver.
One you have the tank off you will see the carbs. They will be attached to the airbox by some rubber boots that are held on by a clamp. Unscrew then all till loose. You will see more clamps on the front side of the carbs do the samd as the airbox. There will be 2 cables going to the carbs one is the throttle and one is the choke they will need to be disconected. Now what you need to do it pull the carbs out of the rubber intack boots and work them out of the bike.
You have to remove the battery box first, to remove the battery box you will need to unclip the fuse box, unclip the flasher unit and unscrew the 2 retaining screws which hold the ignitor. Then slacken the clips on the air intake rubbers between the air box and the carbs, and remove the 2 airbox retaining screws postioned at the rear of the air box on top. The airbox can then be pulled backwards away from the carbs, If the air box is to be removed from the frame then you will need to remove the carbs first to allow room to manuver the airbox and then its a case of fiddle till you get it clear.
hello mate,, your anserw is no ,,u dont need to remove the motor mate,, just take tank and air box off ,, it is a bit fiddly to get at the jubilee screws on the inlet rubbers for the carbs,, but can be done ,,