Question about Pentax Optio Cameras

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I have a pentax optio E85 will not turn on put a new battery in and still will not work or turn on. If It's plugged into the mains it will come on and as soon as i unplugged it goes off

The battery in it is new

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Pentax Optio 555 - Fozen with the lens stuck-out

happened to me a couple times & after recharging battery, still stuck, so manually pushed it in when motor was running trying to close it.

Posted on Apr 06, 2008

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SOURCE: Camera turns on, beeps, turns off.

I've managed to fix my camera - but it took several hours and I needed someone to help. Not sure everyone will want to do this.


Here goes:


Need small Philips screw driver. Pair of tweezers for the small screws. A small flat screw driver for leveraging


1. Remove the battery and memory card.
2. Remove wrist strap
3. Take off the battery cover by gently lifting the retaining metal strap (with small flat screwdriver).
4. Remove all screws of the front cover of the camera housing. (one of the screws is smaller than the others). There's a screw above wrist strap loop.
5. The top of the cover is clipped in under the shiny silver bit with the on/off switch and shutter button (I’ll call it the switch/speaker assembly). I find that inserting a finger nail and gently applying pressure works well.
6. The switch/speaker assembly is best kept secure by an elastic band.
7. Verify the problem is the same: looking into the lens, at bottom right corner of camera is a small motor (silver). Look carefully, you’ll see a white plastic gear which connects the motor with a (hidden) pink gear. This pink gear is attached to a worm gear (a pin with a fine screw thread) that is brass/golden. On this worm gear is a U-shaped blue piece of plastic, which in my case was no longer at right angles to the shaft/worm gear. That's the problem.
You should be able to see all of this under a strong light and peering into the little openings.
8. Resist the temptation to just fix this by leveraging the blue rider with a tiny screwdriver (or something) until it is back in its original position. You might strip the screw thread inside the blue rider and that would be the end of the camera.
9. Next take the LCD display off. Above the little motor is a metal clip attached with 2 screws hidden behind self-adhesive copper strips.
10. Fold the LCD panel away from the camera body. Then carefully and gently unplug the power plug (pink & white in my case). Careful, the green PCB (printed circuit board) to which the socket is attached is flimsy. I don’t think it can take much force. Rather try to pry the plug & socket apart by using a knife or tiny flat screwdriver?
11. With the power cable removed, you can turn the LCD panel over (anti-clockwise) to undo the fold that is in the flat cable. The flat cable is attached to a small white plug on the PC board that contains the rear panel buttons of the camera. There is a thin, orange plastic sheet stuck over this. Lift it away gently and store somewhere for later re-assembly.
12. The socket for the flat cable has a black flap that can be lifted to release the cable. Gently tug the flat cable out of its socket and you can put the LCD panel aside.
13. Remove the metal plate that covers the rear of the lens assembly. First remove the two small screws, then unclip it at the bottom and on the side.
14. CAREFUL: in the centre of the lens assembly is the CCD (charge coupled device). This is the “thing” that contains 7 Megapixels and takes the pictures. NEVER TOUCH THE FRONT OF IT (or so I have read – I think it prudent to observe this.
15. Remove the 3 screws that hold the CCD in place. It needs to be lifted vertically from the lens assembly, otherwise it gets stuck. NOTE that my camera had two small washers under the CCD assembly: top right screw = copper, bottom screw = silver washer. The CCD assembly, too, is attached with a flat cable. The socket works exactly the same as the LCD display. I put my CCD assembly into my glasses case to prevent it from getting dust or dirt on it.
16. Now remove the 4 screws that keep the rear cover of the lens assembly attached.
17. Before removing the cover, unhook the little metal spring that is attached to the mechanism next to the worm gear. Take it right out, feed a bit of thread through one end (for re-assembly) and put it aside. (If you attach the thread immediately, the risk of losing it is reduced.)
18. Then, using your finger nail gently unclip the plastic hook next to the worm gear and lift the lens assembly cover off. There is a long plastic pin so you need to lift it quite high. Observe how the pink gear is situated relative to the plastic mechanism crossing the lens assembly. Remove the pink gear/worm gear with the blue “rider”. Be careful not to lose the small white gear that makes the connection to the driving motor.
19. Unscrew the blue “rider” from the worm gear. Ensure you keep the same orientation and gently find the correct way of putting it back. That is at right angles to the worm. Leave it fairly close to the end of the worm gear away from the pink gear.
20. Now put it back carefully. Try not to lift the part that crosses the lens assembly (the one that was attached with the little spring) too much. Otherwise a little lens flips down and you’ll have extra work to put it all back correctly. There is also a pin on which the plastic piece rides which then needs guidance when re-assembling. (Happened to me, not the end of the world.) (BTW, I think this is the auto-focus mechanism, but I can’t be sure.)
21. Hook the spring over one of its attachment points. Feed the thread through to the other side and use it to hook up the other end of the spring. Cut and remove the thread.
22. Replace the rear lens assembly cover. The long plastic pin needs to find its corresponding hole near the middle of the lens assembly. Remember the hook at the worm-gear corner. Do that one last (after the screws), ensuring that all gears and shafts/pins are in their respective holes.
23. Put back the CCD. I attached the flat cable first (flip down the black locking lever on the socket), then put in the screws. (Remember the washers.)
24. Now put back the metal plate. Clip it in on the left side first, then at the bottom, then the screws.
25. Attach the LCD flat cable. (Remember to lock the socket.) Flip it over and attach the power cable to the LCD. Remember again to be careful with the plug & socket since the PCB is flimsy. Try to apply pressure only on the plug & socket.
26. Replace the orange plastic that covers the electronics.
27. If you like, try out the camera to see the effect of the repair. I used an elastic band to keep the LCD and switch/speaker assembly in place. The battery can be inserted as per normal. NOTE: Where you observe the little blue rider in its installed position, there is a plastic pin sticking up towards the front of the camera (just under the lens). You have to hold something over this hole to prevent the pin (which is being pulled up by the little spring we removed/replaced earlier) from coming up too far. I held my thumb over the hole. If you don’t do this, you camera won’t switch on properly or won’t focus correctly. (In normal operation the front cover stops the pin from advancing too far.) Now switch on and see that all is in order. Careful when operating the zoom and other switches, since you don’t want to break the plastic covering of the switches.
28. If all is OK, then finish the assembly. REMOVE the battery! Next is the little metal plate that keeps the LCD panel in place from the side of the camera. (Remember to flatten/re-attach the adhesive copper strips.)
29. Clean the LCD panel and inside of the rear cover very well. Then put on the back cover.
30. Attach the front cover, clipping in the top carefully. Be careful to position the speaker/switch assembly properly. There is a tiny locating pin (made of plastic) - don’t break this.
31. Put back the screws all around the camera housing. Remember there is one smaller screw that fits underneath the lens. Remember also the screw just above the wrist strap loop.
32. Slide back the battery compartment cover onto its metal strip. Insert battery & memory card. Attach wrist strap. Done!


Stephan

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Pentax Optio M30 won't turn on!

MY CAMERA WONT TURN ON... I HAVE CHARGED THE BATTERY SO I KNOW IT IS CHARGED...ANYONE HAVE THIS PROBLEM.?
CHERI

Posted on Oct 30, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My pentax optio M30 turns off after it's on...

There is no fix for this you can do yourself. These cameras are designed to shut themselves off if there is any kind of an internal problem. So automatically shutting off is a symptom, rather than the problem itself. Return the camera to a Pentax repair centre. They'll give you an estimate, and I guess you'll know what to do if the cost of the repair turns out to be more than the camera is worth to you. And don't waste your money on advice from a "fixya.com" expert, cuz' they'll tell you the same thing, after asking if your battery is charged and if your SD card is in and if your internal memory is full, yada, yada, yada, which is ****, cuz' under those various circumstances, the camera would stay on, at least for a couple of minutes.

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

reinis
  • 157 Answers

SOURCE: pentax optio e85 will not

1) If your battery is charged separately (removing out of the camera) then try to plug in the contact properly, move it there and back to see if the indicator light changes its color. Sometimes cheap batteries, or chargers lose contact - you should open, find any lose contact and fix. For fixing lithium batteries rubber gloves and eye-protecting glasses are compulsory.
2) If your battery is charged inside of the camera - try to open the camera with a screwdriver and check for any lose contact, move it there and back until some indicator shows that the battery is finally charging. If you can't fix it yourself - a specialized mechanic will help you. Don't be afraid to bring him a disassembled battery.
3) If you conclude that the battery is dead - buy a new one on ebay.com or elsewhere. Remember that original manufacturer's batteries are sometimes more reliable but much more expensive than non-original batteries.

P.S. If this helped you to solve the problem (or at least brought some clarification) - rate this solution with 4 thumbs up! But before you would give a negative rating - post a comment, so I could improve my solution to satisfy your needs. Thank you!

Posted on Mar 07, 2011

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