Sorry no easy answer if any of the safety switches tripped you have major problems. If your fan is coming on when switched to fan on then your problem migth be outside in the condenser. Check your power and breakers going to the condenser.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This may have come too late to do any good but I'll post it anyway.
Let's start with the simple.
Verify the lights turn on when you open the door. If not and you know the lights are good, check your circuit (breaker/fuse) panel for tripped or blown fuses. Replace or reset as needed.
If lights work, temporarily turn your temperature knobs as high as they will go and listen for the compressor to turn on. If it doesn't you may have a bad thermostat, or the fridge is in defrost mode which turns the compressor off and the heater on so that it can defrost the coils. To cycle the defrost timer, look for a hole in the thermostat plastic housing cover and with a fairly wide screwdriver blade turn the one way shaft a little bit to a 1/4 turn and see if the compressor and fan turns on now. The timer shaft is sloped on both sides and turns only one way, so if it doesn't engage with the screwdriver tip, turn it the other way and you will feel some resistance when you turn it the right way. If the compressor does turn on, your defrost timer (the part you turned) is likely bad.
If the compressor turned on when you set the thermostat to high, check the ducts at the back of the fridge for cold air blowing from them. If the air isn't blowing, your coil (evaporator coil) fan may be bad (seized up). The fan only runs when the compressor is running. Excessive frost build-up on the coils can reduce or stop cold air from being dispersed in the fridge. If the defrost timer fails to rotate to the defrost cycle, humidity from opening the doors of the fridge will eventually clog the coils with frost and the cold air will be stopped from entering the fridge causing the compressor to run continuously and the interior to be warm.
If your issue turns out to be a compressor or refrigerant issue a licensed professional will have to take it from there.
It sounds like a lot but it's easier than it sounds!
Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. The first thing to check is the filter in the furnace or air handler. Also check the inside coil to be sure its not frozen up. Does the air coming out feel cold? It sounds like the unit could be low on charge which means it has a leak and should be leak checked repaired and properly charged. You would need refrigeration gauges to put on the system in order to properly check the refrigerant charge in the system. One other thing could be a dirty condenser coil. Turn the power off to the unit and use a garden hose with a strong nozzle and spray water through the whole coil to try and blow any dirt or debris through the condenser coil in the outside unit.
No, The only thing you may loose replacing the thermostat battery's would be the time/date. All default pre-programming will not be lost. The thermostat controls the unit. If the unit is coming on then the t-stat is working. Confirm the unit is coming on when the T-stat tells it to.Turn the t-stat to the off position, have someone go outside to the condenser unit. Turn the unit on and listen for the fan and the compressor (2) different sounds from the unit. Feel the lines that connect to the house, the larger line should feel cool to cold and the smaller line should feel warm to hot. If you do not hear the compressor, or suspect it is not coming on with the fan, then you may have some other issue. In the heat we have been having one good suspect is a bad compressor start capacitor. The fan comes on but not the compressor,,this is a good indication the cap. is bad.. On the wall by your outside unit is a power disconnect. Open the box and pull the disconnect or flip the breaker to the off position. Now have someone turn the T-stat on and wait a minute then off and wait a minute, on and off ... you should hear a relay clicking on/off or in/out inside the control box of the A/C unit. When in the on position you should hear a slight buzzing sound also once the relay pulls in, this will tell you the t-stat is telling the unit what it should be doing. If all this is good then your unit is just is not cooling right and needs further troubleshooting. Hope this helps FixYa up.
If the thermostat has a blinking snowflake then it is in time delay mode which sometime can take between 5 to 7 minutes before it will turn the AC and Fan On......Then it will go to a solid snowflake.
When you turned it to fan On it starts the Fan right away..... After the snow flake has went to solid check to see if the fan is running and then look outside to see if the Fan Blade is turning on the AC..... The fan blade comes on the same time as the compressor does. Then with the fan running hold your hand above the air stream above the AC and if you can noticeablely feel warm to hot air comeing out the Top then the compressor is running also. If the outside unit is not running I would check to make sure the Main Breakers are turned ON.... After the AC has ran for a few minutes feel the copper lines that go into the house the smaller line should feel warm to hot and the bigger lines with insulation on it should feel cool to cold and sweating with beads of moisture on it..... That is a quick test to see if the unit is working properly.....If you have a Thermentor and can Check the Temperature of the Return Air and the Supply Air .. You should have about 20 Degree F Between the Supply and Return........ 75* Return - 55* Supply would Equal 20* TD Across the Coil......
That is about all you can do to check on your own....... If the compressor is not coming on or the lines are not the temperature difference then you will need to get professional help for your Air Conditioning System..... Goood Luck Hope this Helps.........
The first thing to check is the thermal protector (circuit breaker). It is a small black button mounted on the housing on the back side of the pump motor. The unit will have to cool down before the button will reset. Usuall causes for the thermal protector to pop are: running the compressor on an extension cord, running the compressor on power lines or circuits that can't carry enough amps to run the motor, or little or no oil in the compressor causing excessive friction and heat buildup. If the thermal protector isn't tripped the next thing to check is the pressure switch. If the springs inside are broke or damaged they won't trip the switch to turn the compressor on. If the capacitor(s) are bad the motor will hum and/or try to turn but not have the power to start spinning.
Sometimes on new units it is common for the fan to not start until you give it a push. Did you happen to hear if the compressor was operating? If the unit was froze-up the Insulated Suction line would also be iced over as well. If it wasn`t it is more likely that either the compressor was not operating or it shutoff due to
high discharge pressure and can only be reset on its
own or cooling the compressor off with cold water.
if no cold blowing,evaporator is not working,have you ever heard compressor is running,check this out,no compression of course you dont have cool on evaporator.if the compressor is running check the oprating current,if still have enough freon charge,if not running check thermostat reset setting on the coldest,ifn still not run check overload relay on panel control reset lever to put back compressor to run,check condensing fan if working,if not check also over load protection,this should be done by ac tech nician.have a nice day,dont gorget to rate me, thank's
A burned or pitted contactor will/can cause a unit to not run. Outside fan. Just thinking out loud. Start with low voltage check at t.stat then check outside low volt. Set t.stat to on. If fan engages at least your transformer is good. Next set calling for cool. Drop t.stat 68-70. If nothing happens go outside and with a screwdriver depress the contactor in. If fan and compressor kicks in change the contactor. If contactor is pulled in check outside fan. Remove the wires from the compressor and see if the fan will run . If it does you have eliminated start components as good. The compressor has to be check. It needs to be ohmed out. Turn off power at disconnect. Pull the cover on the compressor. Check between pins; then pins to ground. Open or infinite is good.Have you checked fuses. Like small 3-5 amp fuses