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There are a lot of factors that can cause a poor/no idle problem. I'm guessing the 2.8 lt motor? One common problem on this motor was a bad intake manifold gasket causing an internal vacuum leak supplying the vehicle with unmetered air. The vehicle would idle very poorly and stall. Another problem could be with the IAC ( Idle air control) motor that controls idle. It could be sticky/defective and will not properly control idle. A dirty throttle plate can also cause idle problems as it upsets minimum airflow. You can start by inspecting the throttle plate for dirty/coking and clean with carb spray as necessary. You can also try removing and cleaning the IAC motor pintle or replacing the motor with a known good oneto see if it corrects the problem
Possible torque converter clutch issue. Is the check engine light on? If so, have it scanned for transmission codes. If the torque converter clutch is locked up when it isn't supposed to be, the vehicle will stall. Another thing to check is for coking on the throttle plate. Remove the hose that goes from the air filter box to the throttle assembly and look inside the throttle bore to see if it is dirty/black. If so, use carb cleaner and a toothbrush to clean while holding throttle plate open and remove as much carbon deposits as possible. This can affect minimum idle airflow and also cause a stall
Clogged idle circuits in your carbs. Clean jets and passages.
You can try suck dirt out, therefore: Screw the idle mixture screw out ( almost totally ), give full throttle ( 1 second ) and then hold your hand against the carb air intake.
This will give maximum suction and can suck the dirt trough tje circuits.
Also, first drain the carb(s) to be shure there is no water in it...
I don't think it has anything to do with the high/low settings, but in case was the carb pre adjusted or did you adjust them yourself. Did you put the throttle cable in the right hole on the throttle plate if there is more than one. Check the idle speed screw (not the low needle) to make sure it is not causing this. Look to make sure the throttle butterfly is not binding in the open position or that the throttle cable itself is the culprit. Maybe your gasket moved when re-installing causing plate to stay open. I suggest removing carb and inspecting for any of these problems. Maybe there is something wrong with your new carb! I hope this helps out. Happy to answer any questions.
sounds ilke a ai leak the manifold block gasket may be leaking or a crack in the carb to barrel insulator- or it has a torn / perished intake boot or the impulse line is perished , could even be a loose barrel and the base gasket is leaking - or leaking crankcase seals
you have ruled out secondary compression and spark and blocked muffler
only proper way to know is to remove muffler and carb, block off both
inlet and exhaust with rubber gasket and a metal plate - make sure the inlet metal plate has a access hole for you to pressurise the c/case
remove clutch starter assy and flywheel
set to psiton to tdc and pressurise the c/case to 7 psi
brush around seals and gaskets with soapy water and see where bubbles are comming from that will be your leak it may be quite substanicial - check main seals, c/case joints, manifold block carb end and cylinder end and of course the manifold block itself
2 strokes need a air tight c/case to operate to fuel pump in the carb and to pump mixture from the crankcase to the cylinder
if sucking air instead of fuel they can be really hard to start, stall alot , have no power , will not idle , and seem to overspeed and get very hot
not to mention can damage tp piston and cylinder
have a look or let your local shop take a look for you
There is a lot of reasons for stalling but start with trying to find any vaccum leaks. Then cleen the throttle plates and if you know what the idle speed control is cleen that too. Also if it has a mass air flow sensor cleen that but be careful don't brake any of the fine wires. Thats a good starting point that the only thing it cost is a can of carb cleen or throttle plates cleener.
place your hand over the throttle plate if the engine stalls out u have no leaks. Take some Carb cleaner pray it around the intake system like around the gaskets or vacuum hoses if you hit the leak the idle will change.
Two things come to mind. One, the tank cap is not allowing air into the fuel tank to replace the fuel that is going out. This results in a vacuum in the fuel tank until the pump can no longer **** fuel. Test this by running it with the cap loosened a little bit just to test it OR loosen the cap after it has stopped and see if it goes normally again.
If this doesn't do it, you have an air leak somewhere. The common ones, in order of occurance, are as follows.
Between the carby and motor.
The crankshaft seal on the clutch side of the motor. (clutch comes off with left hand thread)
The crankshaft seal under the flywheel, on the pull starter end.
I have had a spark plug leaking around it's gasket ring too, but that was a one of, and stumped everyone for a long time. With the exception of the flywheel end, you can test with a can of starting fluid, spraying it into the areas mentioned until you get a change in behavior from the motor. I the crank seals are gone, new seals will work for another period, but probably the bearings are getting loose and wearing the seals out.
The vacuum comes from the intake manifold and ported vacuum comes from the carb above the throttle plate. You might have a leak at the carb gasket or intake manifold gasket. Spray some car cleaner or WD40 around the gaskets and vacuum lines while the engine is running and when you hear the idle speed up, you've found the leak. You will need to install the rebuilt carb first, and you should tighten any loose intake manifold bolts. Don't overtighten them. Also check the EGR valve because it could cause the engine to stall at idle. A good tune up might be needed too. I've seen some of those engines run real rough when the ignition timing was off.
Sorry to hear you've been looking for an answer for so long, I just stumbled on the post. Sounds like a problem I once had on an '83 Honda Magna. This was the 1100cc version but I think the carb set up was the same. There are 2 parts that are suspect from the symptoms that you're describing. One is the rubber tube that connects the carbs to the block. These tend to dry rot and crack over the years hence letting in air and messing with your mixture as it enters the cylinder. The second thing to look at is the rubber diaphragm in the top of the carb. Should just be 4 screws that hold on the top plate and under is a gasket with the idle pin underneath. Again this tends to crack on these old bikes and cause problems. I suggest you buy these parts new though, used ones are likely to have the same problem.