Question about Washing Machines
Posted by Anonymous on
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: thumping and banging
make sure all shipping pins are out the tub should move all around from side to side if it level still bangs its eather the balance ring top basket are there 3 slides on a plate above the motor just put some silacone oil on tham move around
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
There are 2 things you can do.
All washing machines have an off balance shut off, some are touchy, some let it run around the house. With wht machine empty, lean it towards you, on the 2 front feet, about 2 or 3 inches and let it drop. The self leveling feet in the rear must BOTH make good floor gontact and sometimes, just the weight of the machine will not adjust them. The other thing is, make sure the load is evenly distributed. Coats, blankets, small rugs etc. are very heavy when wet and they tend to throw all of the weight to one side.
There is no screw holding the yub in place. It hangs on the center post, where the agitator goes. There is however, what's called a snubber. It is a rubber device that looks like a flattened suction cup, that comes in contact with the tub. It helps keep the tub from jumping around too much.
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 23, 2014 | Frigidaire GLTF1670A Front Load Washer
Mar 05, 2018 | Amana NAV2335A Top Load Washer
May 02, 2013 | Washing Machines
Nov 15, 2012 | Washing Machines
Sep 19, 2012 | Maytag Parts Washing Machines
Mar 27, 2011 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...
Apr 08, 2010 | Whirlpool GHW9100L Front Load Washer
Aug 31, 2009 | Frigidaire Washing Machines
Mar 17, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines
12 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!