Question about Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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FROST ON COILS BEHIND PANNEL INSIDE FREEZER. ICE ON BOTTOM WARM AT TOP. FAN IN THE BACK NOT KICKING ON

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  • blake_rachel Jun 20, 2009

    It seems the fan motor is bad. I will replace it and find out

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Hello rachel.
Welcome to Fixya.

Before testing the fan, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer.
The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver.

FROST ON COILS BEHIND PANNEL - 11b4f40.jpg
Remove any screws that secure the fan or fan housing so that you can access the fan's wiring. Typically two screws secure the mounting bracket in place (labeled "A" below). It may be easier to remove the entire rear panel if the mounting brackets screws are inaccessible.

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The fan is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement on the fan before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the fan with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connector off (do not pull on the wire) of the fan's terminal. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Spin the fan blade, it should move smoothly and freely. If the movement is not smooth, the motor should be replaced.
Test the fan for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the fan does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

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replacing the defective fan:

Remove the fan blade from the old motor and place it onto the new fan motor. The blade made be held in place with a spring or "C" clip. Use a small slot screwdrivFROST ON COILS BEHIND PANNEL - c94ea30.jpgff the clip.
c94ea30.jpg Replace the fan onto the mounting bracket and back into the fan housing. Spin the fan to make certain it can turn freely. Replace the rear freezer panel and plug in the refrigerator.

good luck rachel.
plz let me knw if you need any further info.
thank you for using fixya.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • Jalal Sordo
    Jalal Sordo Jun 20, 2009

    The fan is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement on the fan before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the fan with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connector off (do not pull on the wire) of the fan's terminal. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

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No ice.... refrigerator getting warm..... freezer also getting warm


here are a couple of things to check. First look at the back inside wall of the freezer and see if it is getting coated with frost or snow. If yes, you probably have a problem with the defrost system usually the defrost heater burns out first. Once you replace the heaters, all the excess frost has to be melted off the cooling coils behind that wall. A hair dryer works well for this. Another thing t check is the fan motor that is back behind that same wall. If the fan stops for any reason--- you loose cooling on both sides.

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The fan is working. The fridge, freezer & coils are not iced up. There is good room for air circulation. I vacuumed most of the dust from the coils, etc. The compressor is just slightly warm to the...


Good day to you sir John,


A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system. Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

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1 Answer

The upper portion of the freezer turns off, causing the ice to melt. And the cooler side bottom drawer turns into a freezer. I can't figure out what's going on.


You have a frost blocked evaporator. Translation: The cooling coils, located behind the back wall inside the freezer section, have plugged up with frost (usually caused by a burnt out defrost heater, located at the bottom of these coils) which prevents the cold air from circulating inside the freezer, and into the top of the fresh foods section. At the same time, this blocked air flow allows very cold air at the bottom of the freezer section to migrate back into the bottom of the fresh foods section, and thus freeze item in the bottom bins of the refrigerator. Unload the freezer, take the shelves out and remove the back panel. Melt the frost with a hair blower, and change out the heater at the bottom.

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1 Answer

Bottom half of fridge and freezer are cold top half warm?


This sounds like an air flow issue, If your freezer fan is running still you may have a defrost problem starting in the freezer cooling coils. This will cause the cold from the freezer to back flow into the bottom of the fridge and only the lower half of the freezer to keep very cold.
Most likely culprit for defrost issues would be the terminating thermostat (inside freezer behind back wall and clips to top of coils).
Good luck and let me know if you need more help!

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2 Answers

The compressor on my refregerator seem to be overheated it is a side by side the insides of the doors are warm and the freezer will not free but it is running there is cool air in freezer


The doors should be warm. There or heaters in the doors or what they call a yodelers loop in the frame around the doors that keeps condensation from forming. Make sure the fan if blowing on the compressor and the fan inside the freezer is also running. If so be sure there is no ice built up on the bottom inside back panel of the freezer. If so you will have a defrost problem and the coil is full of ice and not allowing the air to flow through it and cool the fridge. If there is ice, the heater behind the panel is most likely bad.

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1 Answer

Top portion offreezer is warm bottom is cold


Sounds like the defrost heater is bad . Part number WR51X10055 . You will need to remove the 2 or 4 screws , holding the lower portion of the inside rear freezer panel . The heater , is attached to the bottom of the coils , held on by 2 screws . You should also replace the defrost thermostat , Part number WR50X10068 . This is the 1 " cylinder , clipped to the top of the coils , with a blue and pink wire attached to it . This bimetal (defrost thermostat) , cuts the heater off , when/if the temp behind the panel gets to 140 degrees , therefore , keeping the food from defrosting .

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1 Answer

Inside the refrigerator, the back of it ices up, the back of the top shelf and the coils behind the vegetable bins.


Make sure the vent from the freezer is set to a warmer temperature. You can also check the freezer to see if you see heavy frost. If no frost then try to adjust the vent

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1 Answer

Amana Bottom Freezer 7 years old running but not cold.


Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover inside the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
heavy frost-
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

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1 Answer

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Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Below the evaporator fan behind the rear cover inside the freezer is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM). heavy buildup of ice (defrost problem)

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1 Answer

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you have a leak in the freon line

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