Outside compressor off while handler on inside, no cooling
HAVE GE MOTOR FOR FAN ON OUTSIDE CARRIERCOMPRESSOR VERY HOT PAINT PEEL NOTED NOT ON SECOND COMPRESSOR. NO TURNING OF FAN ON COMPRESSOR DRY NOT WET POWER TO PANEL OK. HANDLER WORKING UPSTAIRS ALTHOUGH COMPRESSOR NOT COOLING, SET 78 DEGREES ON THERMOSTAT, THERMOMETER 90-94. CAN I REPLACE GE MOTOR ON FAN TO RESTART COMPRESSOR OR DO I NEED TO CHECK VOLTAGE TO CIRCUIT BOARD AND OTHER WIRING WITH CURRENT ON?? SHOULD I CHECK THE COOLANT CHARGE FIRST ALTHOUGH THIS SEEMS UNRELATED?? CARRIER PROD 38YCC030340, FACT CHARGE R22; 5.19 LBS
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If your description is in a few minutes, It sounds like a loose wire. If it is the outside fan motor to which you were referring, it should have 3 wires. Find those 3 wires and trace them back to the control board and main contactor. check the condition of any connections and the condition of the insulation. Next, If it is the blower motor, do the same thing.
It also sounds like it could be the control wiring. The blower control wire is the green wire coming from the thermostat and going to the fan control board in the air handler. If you have a loose connnection in the thermostat and/or loose connnection for some splice in that wire, it could interrupt the control power to the blower motor and cause it to cycle.
If it is the condensing fan on the condensing unit, it is the yellow wire. Check the same criteria as green wire above.
As far as the last of your inquiry, the air conditioner reaches temperature then turns off is normal and is not part of the problem your having.
The only other thing I can think of without more information, If the condensing unit comes on and shortly later turns off, the question is whether the condensing fan comes on when the compressor turns on. I had a case today, both the outdoor fan and compressor would not run, but the main contactor was pulled in, and voltage was available. It turns out the dual capacitor was bad and the condensing fan had stopped running and the compressor was cycling on the inherent motor protection inside the compressor. Inside the compressor is a bimetallic overtemperature switch that helps protect the compressor from getting to hot. This is your probable cause and can be determined by checking the temperature of the condensing fan motor and the temperature of the compressor. If both are so hot your hand gets burned, you probably need an new capacitor and outdoor fan motor. If the compressor cools by turning it off, the inherent motor protection will reset if it has not burned out. If after deenergizing the compressor cool off and will not reset, the compressor will have to be changed.
If you have determined that the line voltage is getting to the blower motor then the unit is defective and needs to be replaced. Check for the presence of the voltage at the wires going directly into the motor to make sure. It is not the compactor relay because it supplies power to both the compressor and condenser fan. If your air handler is inside the house, the housing also has circuit breakers for the fan motor - check that also.
Hi, here is the theory on the reset button on Air Conditioners. They reset via the breaker panel box in your house. Check that first before anything else. However if your unit is popping breakers, it is because the rating for the breaker is incorrect, or there is something that needs servicing usually in the outside unit called the condenser. That piece contains the compressor. A faulty compressor and pop the breaker. Or If the condenser fan that blows over the coils of the outside unit stops (common failure) The compressor will overheat and shut down. That may not trip the breaker but the house will get hot anyway. Usual action for this is to replace the condenser fan motor and starting capacitor. Make sure the speed rating and directional rotation for the replacement motor is the same as the motor removed. There are other reasons why the system won't come one fully. If the wall thermostat is digital and does nothing. including turning on the fan. There will be a small fuse located on the circuit board of the air handler (part of Air Conditioner mounted inside the house. It houses the circulation fan). That fuse could be blown. That one shuts down just about everything. On air handlers mounted up into the attic crawl space there is an overflow pan. This pan is mounted directly below the air handler. This pan can fill with water when the drain pain contained inside the air handler starts to overflow because the drain system to that is clogged. There is a "float switch" mounted in the overflow pan wired to the system in such as way as to shut down the entire AC system if that pan fills. The handling is to clear the obstruction in the Drip Pan inside the air handler. Then remove enough water from the overflow pan and the AC will run as though nothing has happened. If you have more questions, write to me on this site. One thing more. The capacitor alone in the Outside condenser unit can fail and that will stop the condenser completely if it is of a "split" design and used for both the compressor and fan. When replacing this unit alone, ALWAYS find the same specification part. I hope this helps, Have a Happy New Year, Mark
YOUR OUTDOOR FAN MOTOR SHOULD NEVER SHUT OFF IN THE AC MODE. IT IS SUPPOSED TO SHUT OFF IN THE HEAT MODE WHEN ITS IN DEFROST. IF THE UNIT IS RUNNING IN COOL AND THE OUTSIDE MOTOR QUITS ,THE COMPRESSOR WILL QUIT SOON AFTER. EITHER THE RUN CAPACITOR FOR THE FAN IS BAD OR THE FAN MOTOR ITSELF IS BAD, IF CAP IS GOOD THEN THE MOTOR IS At FAULT. THE OUTDOOR PRESSURE SWITCH CAN ALSO OPEN IF THE INDOOR FAN MOTOR FAILS IN HEAT OR THE FILTER IS PLUM NASTY in heat OR THE INDOOR COIL IS PLUGGED UP in heat.. THE PRESSURE SWITCH USUALLY TRIPS AT 400 TO 425 SO ITS WORKING CORRECTLY. YOU MAY BE CONFUSING THE ISSUE SAYING THAT THE AIR IS HOT AND COLD INSIDE. IT IS COLD WHEN AC IS RUNNING HOT WHEN HEAT PUMP IS RUNNING IN HEAT BUT ESSENTIALLY not cold or hot if compressor isn't running, but a lot of folks describe the lack of cold air as hot when the compressor isnt running. but it basically is warm or house air temp.you test the capacitor with a capacitor tester or take it to motor shop and let them test it. odds are its a 5 , 7.5 or a 10. it should test within 10 % of rated value . ask for a RESCUE brand replacement motor. they are great ,reversable etc.carefully oil and sand the motor shaft and note exactly where the blade was located in relation to the grill so you get it back just the same. usually they wire up black to a leg of 220 power. white to the other leg of 220 power. brown and brown with white stripe to the capacitor.you can also pull whole fan shroud assembly on some units and take whole thing to motor shop and let them test motor cap, replace and all you do is return to unit and connect two power leads,
Hi, Could be a run capacitor on the fan motor. They usually swell up and or leak when they go bad. If not, the only real way to test them it with a specific capacitor tester. A new capacitor would be cheaper. Make sure that the outside unit is disconnected from power before opening it up, try to spin the fan blade by hand. If it doesn't spin freely it may need oiled if possible. See above solution. Your problem is the fan motor though so if this don't do it, It will have to be replaced. If this helps, Please rate my solution.