Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
i am posting instruction for this dryer below
(For some help with that, and before buying an element you might not need, please see my article entitled 'The No-Heat Dryer'). Note: Always check airflow out the vent before firing up your dryer with its new element. A partially clogged vent can burn out an element - even a brand new one - fast! Just run the dryer on the 'no-heat' or 'fluff' setting, then go outside and check for a good strong flow of air from the vent hood. If there's any doubt, Whirlpool makes a cool little airflow test kit for their dryers that will tell you for sure, from inside.
There are basically 3 styles of heating elements in use for these dryers.
1) Most common is the 'long' one, part number 4391960, accessed from the back of the dryer, and which looks like this:
To replace this one, power down and pull the dryer out and remove the back cover. You'll see a long, vertical 'can' on the right side, with the element coil inside. To remove this can, simply pull the element wires (can be hard to remove; I use a long-nosed pliers), the limit thermostat wires just above them, and the thermal fuse wires if equipped (this is a little device mounted high on the side of the can, with two wires attached). One 5/16" hex screw at the top and a little strap holds the can in place. Remove this screw (You can look through the small hole that lines up with it, originally to poke a long screwdriver through), tip the can rearward, and lift it off its two bottom hooks. Once the can's out, one screw holds the element inside. Remove it, and the old element coil will slide out. Slide the new one in, reverse this process, and you're done!
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
Have you confirmed the heating element is bad? There's more to the dryer heating circuits that can cause a no heat problem besides the heating element.
If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.
Now...if you have determined the heating element is definitely bad, and this is a Kenmore Elite as the one you posted this question under, the following link explains how to access the heating element and replace it: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3677025-elite_duet_dryer_heating_element If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
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