Question about Homelite 'Yard Broom' Leaf Blower
After running and then heating up blower quits. It will crank again when cooled or cold and repeat problem.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: leaf blower
One suggestion, unscrew the spark plug and reconnect the high voltage wire. In a very dark area move the plug so that the plug thread touches some metal on the engine. Pull the starter cord. If you don't see a spark, remove the two screws on the handle and see if two wires are attached to the Stop Engine Switch. Remove one wire and bend it away from metal and try to see spark when pulling the start cord. If spark occurs, the Switch is shorted and needs replacing.
Posted on Nov 04, 2008
SOURCE: Replace starter pull cord
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
>>From your Description it Sounds like the Fuel Filter in the Tank Requires Changing, the Carburetor Metering Jet is Stuck, the Carburetor Filter/Screen is Restricted and Requires Cleaning/Replacing or the Carburetor Requires Cleaning.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Replacing the Fuel Lines and the Filter on Chain Saws and Trimmers. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Fuel Line is Pushed and Pulled (I Use Long Needle Nose Pliers) Through the Small Hole Until the Hose is Out the Fill Hole about a 1/2".
>>You can Also Use a Coat Hanger with a Small J at the End to Hook the Filter in the Tank and Pull the Filter and Hose (if Detached from the Carburetor) Out the Tank Fill Hole Enough to Replace the Filter.
>>Then Attach the Filter and Pull the Hose Back Until the Filter Lays at the Bottom of the Tank Just Below the Fill Hole (or so it is in the Bottom of the Tank and will Rest in the Fuel Mix when Turned at Common Angles the Unit May be Turned to During Operation.
>>**Hint: Use Plenty of Spray Lubrication at the Small Hole as you are Feeding in the Hose. It Slides Easier.**
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port is Clear.
>>If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off.
>>If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace are the Needle Valve and Metering Pump Diaphram.
>>The Metering Pump Diaphram is Under the Carburetor Plate with 4 Small Screws in it.
>>The Dowl on the Diaphram should Just Touch the Metering Jet Actuator Arm.
>>The Actuator Arm is Adjusted by Carefully Bending the Actuator Arm Up or Down to get the Correct Clearance.
>>If you Order a Kit, then Replace All the Old Components with the New Ones in the Kit even if the Old Parts Look Good.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers.
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine.
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Posted on May 13, 2009
"top of the gas tank where the gas tube fits into the tank"
I assume you're describing the gas tank cap. if so, the o-ring is missing from the gas tank cap. You can find those at hardware stores.
Posted on May 29, 2009
It seems that the carb is not getting fuel. It could be a cracked fuel line. The fuel priming bulb could also be cracked/dry rotted. Possibly the fuel pump in the carb is bad. The carb is rather intricate and not something anyone without training should try to repair. The overhaul kit will cost $15 to $20. I suggest you take the blower to a repair shop.
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
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