Question about Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load Washer
I'm replacing the water inlet valve! I'm trying to remove the cracked one & was curious to know if it should be hard to pull off after the screws are removed? I don't want to break anything
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I believe the selector knob on a Whirpool just has to be turned counter-clockwise with the selector pushed in. It will spin off the shaft and then the outer indicator dial will pull off. The shaft also has a keyed slot that will only allow the dial to be removed and installed one way, so there should be no question as to how it goes back on.
Was there a reason as to why you are removing the washer selector knob? If this is a simple matter of replacing a broken water temperature selector, you shouldn't have to remove any of the control knobs to gain access to the selector. The entire front panel comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. That way you can access the broken selector from behind the front panel much easier. Just remove the panel right above the washer top (under the dryer) and it should expose the front panel mounting screws. Remove these screws and the front panel comes off. Just make sure the unit is unplugged before you begin. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Posted on Apr 22, 2008
The "FH" error can have several causes, so this can sometimes be a tricky problem to diagnose. Some of these error codes can also be erroneous. The first step to troubleshooting your problem should be to unplug the washer for at least 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main computer (or brain) of the washer. Sometimes this is all it takes to correct minor glitches. If your error code reappears following a reset, then you know you have a genuine problem. If the "FH" error persists, the following link explains what to do:
Although, you may be correct in your assumption of a possible water inlet valve problem, I would recommend you read through the link provided and try to eliminate the easy things first. Check your installation for a possible siphoning issue, followed by a check of the drain pump. If those items check good, check the sediment screens in the water inlet valve. If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you use well water, the sediment screens can become clogged with deposits and debris. If you suspect a clogged inlet valve you can also remove it and thoroughly clean it in a 50/50 solution of water and distilled vinegar. Allow the inlet valve to soak in the solution for about half an hour and flush real well with clean water. Avoid submerging the solenoids and electrical connections, or getting them wet.
If you have questions along the way, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
SOURCE: HF error code
F/H No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.
If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.
If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash.
Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.
If there is no water in the unit:
1. Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
2. Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves
3. Verify inlet valve operation
If there is water in the unit:
1. Verify Drain pump operation
2. Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch
Verify there is not a siphon problem
Verify wire harness connections to:Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
Check all hoses for possible leaks
Verify pressure switch operation
Verify flow meter operation
Verify CCU operation.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
Thats a two man job that you are trying to do yourself. The top of the washer has to be removed to replace the valve. Get some help to remove the dryer from the top.
Posted on Mar 15, 2010
all washing machine perform a drain cycle before any wash - that's just the norm geoff.
I'm assuming you'll be getting an F1 fault code
Sounds like the inlet solenoids have gone. get your multi meter on the solenoids - the readings should be around 3.4kOhms - 4.4kOhms
If this proves ok then you'll need to do a 'live test' on the power going to the solenoids at the start of the cycle. (Take all precautions so as not to give yourself a shock) you'll expect a reading of 180-230v
If the resistance across the solenoids are between the given values and you're getting power to them then the fault lies with the water supply.
If there is no power going to the solenoids at the start of a programme then you need to check wiring back to the CCU for continuity. If the continuity proves ok then you'll need to replace the programme timer mate
Posted on Jun 12, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Before you begin to test your icemaker's water inlet valve, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this test.
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