Upper looper not stitching - Baby Lock Evolve

I don't know your model in particular but generally this is how you set up a serger/overlocker to create a rolled hem. Remove the left hand needle and thread if 4 threads are threaded). Now there is usually a lever around the stitching area that you slide back towards you to remove the stitching finger back (disengaged). Then you adjust the top looper tension looser (about 2-3) and lower looper tension tighter (7 or 8). Leave needle tension at normal tension (5). You may need to move the cutting blade to the right too. The technique is to cut the fabric wider but with a narrow stitch so the cut edge rolls under within the stitching. You want the top looper thread really loose so it rolls right around underneath up against the needle thread, the lower looper thread needs to be tight and almost invisible, pulling the upper looper thread down. I usually do a few test runs and check the stitching. Once happy, I turn the stitch length right down to 1 so it is very dense. This uses a lot of thread up.

Ideally use a wooly overlock thread on the upper looper as this "fluffs" out once stitched and "fills" in covering the fabric edge completely.
some good images here
Sewing Basics Narrow Rolled Hems with Serger Sew Mama Sew Outstanding...

Start with the threading sequence. Upper looper, lower looper, left needle, right needle. Your upper & lower loopers must be threaded before your needles or it won't make the stitch. If it still doesn't work, it's out of time and will need to be taken in to a shop.

Sounds like you want to do a rolled hem for a handkerchief edge, I do the following to create a rolled hem on my over locker. Take out left needle and cut and remove that thread. Open front cover and slide back lever for the stitch finger in the needle plate, this finger stops the fabric rolling under thread tension normally so you need to pull it back out of engagement. Your Janome may have a similar means to select the rolled hem or you may need to remove the stitch finger with a screwdriver, it varies between models.

Thread upper looper with wooly nylon and right needle and lower looper in matching colour thread. (You can go wooly on the bottom looper but it hardly shows so I never bother.) Disengage upper blade and move the fixed lower blade to the right to trim less, then lower upper blade back into position. Now tension, needle leave alone (5)' upper looper very loose (2-3) and lower looper tighten up to 6-7 and test stitch. You want the upper looper thread to go right underneath and the lower looper thread to disappear against the needle stitch. And the fabric to roll inside the stitching. Finesse tensions on the loopers until this is right, you may need to change blade position too, depends on weight of the fabric and how it rolls. Once this is right turn stitch length down to close up stitching, 0.8 or even 0.5 if you want full coverage. Thats it. You can use differential feed if you want a fluted rolled edge, nice on knits.

Your threading is probably perfect, but lets make sure about a couple details which are most likely the cause for your question.
Here is a really helpful video on threading, it is almost as good as having the person with you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEwBj2ZdOiI
Now lets have a look at the position of the threads as they come through the eye of both loopers. Make sure that the lower looper thread is positioned in-front and over the upper looper and lower looper thread.
Check that the presser foot is down as the stitching is began..

I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.


Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

Rolled hemming on any overlocker is usually achived the following way. Right hand needle only.
Blade over to the right usually to cut wider than normal but you can vary this to suit the fabric and stitch width you want.
Thread in this needle and the upper and lower loopers. If you can source any, use woolly overlock thread in the upper looper, this fluffs out when not tensioned and covers the fabric to give the look of solid stitching. Change upper looper tension to about 2 and lower looper tension to about 6 or 7.

The lever by the plate is usually to control the little stitch finger where the stitches are formed, move it backwards and it should move back towards you?? If this happens, then you want it in the retracted (towards you) position for rolled hemming so the stitching is much smaller and the fabric can roll. Normally this stitch finger holds the fabric firm for the loopers to form the stitch over for your normal 3 or 4 thread overlock.

Now test stitch and see how it looks. Tighten the lower looper thread so it lays right beside the needle on the underside. You may need to then tighten or loosen more the upper looper, you want the upper thread to wrap all the way around to the underneath against the lower looper thread and needle.

The cut edge of fabric should roll to underneath inside your seam. Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5 or so to close it right up tight. This uses heaps of thread so I usually test everything else, then close it up at the end to minimise waste.

Hope this makes sense, good luck.

I have just learned this :)
Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread serging.
1. Open the front cover and cutting blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading guide ( this is plate that has two holes for the threads) Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove upper thread from the machine (or you can leave the cone thread on, it doesn't matter).
2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.
3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left, then slip the end into the upper looper thread eye from backside.(this sounds complicated, yes? but it is very simple : the looper has a counter part that is spring-locked to move from left to right and right to left. This is the little claw-looking part of the looper that when in the postion to serg with four threads is to the right side of the looper. It looks like a scorpion's tale. If you can't figure which part it is, use your finger to probe the looper and you'll feel it give a little. This part needs to be moved to the left - it will not slide over, but swing up and over and down, like an arch. Then, where the thread comes out of the looper is where you want the little claw-like part to hook into.)
4. Close the covers. Decrease the needel tension - this depends on what the stitch length is. Stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 3.0 = L needle n/a, R needle 1; upper looper n/a, lower looper 5
stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 5.0 = L needle 0, R needle n/a, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5

Those are for a flatlock stitch - for a 2-thread rolled edge :
Stitch length: 0.5, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4.5, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5
Stitch lenght: 1.0, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4, upper lopper n/a, lower looper 3.0

If you have any questions, e-mail me at [email protected]

Solution taken from "Handbook for Huskylock Sewing Machine Models 1001L/1000L/1000"

1. Raise the presser foot by using presser foot lever. When the presser foot is raised, the two thread tension discs in the thread tension control panel are released so that thread passes freely between them. Otherwise thread tension may not be correct.

Important! When threading the needle, always be sure to lift the presser foot lever, and also take care to thread in the proper order.

Threading order:
1. Upper looper thread (green)
2. Lower looper thread (blue)
3. Double chain stitch looper thread (purple) in case of 5 thread stitch or double chain stitch
4. Right needle thread (red)
5. Left needle thread or double chain needle thread (yellow)

Caution!
Because the left thread tension dial (yellow) is used for either the left needle or the double chain stitch needle, these needles will never be used at the same time.

Upper looper (green) sequence:
1. Thread holder (silver triangle openings attached to thread holder stand)
2. Thread guide (flat silver clips just behind thread tension disc)
3. Thread tension disc (circular knobs with numbers for tension setting)
4. Pull thread around upper looper guide and upper looper
5. Pull thread into hole of upper looper

Lower looper (blue)
Repeat 1, 2, 3.
4. Pull thread around guide (see color coded chart inside front serger cover).

Easy threading mechanism (for lower looper)
1. Pull out the lower looper threading lever
2. Thread the lower looper and position the thread on hook of the lower looper
threading lever.
3. Push the lower looper threading lever back to its basic position while
holding the end of the thread.

Caution:
When returning the lower looper threading lever, always make sure that the two
blue triangle marks (directional arrows) meet each other.

Right needle thread (red)
Left needle thread (yellow)
Important: Thread the needles after threading of lower looper and upper looper.
First raise the presser foot lever, and then thread the needle threads in order shown in color coded thread guide.

You need to disengage the cutting blade by openingfirstly opening the front and left hand side covers. pull on the larger of the two silver knobs and slide the red lever towards you. I'm not sure what the tension settings are, but I'm certain you need to reduce them a fair bit to aid in the rolling effect. I only use 3 threads when doing a rolled hem.
My description isn't too detailed but I hope it helps!