Question about Frigidaire FAM157S1A Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Not staying cool

Ok, so my husband drills 2 drain holes in it & hits a Freon line. AC guy comes out and sauders the line. He also had to install a Schrader valve & installed 23.? of Freon & vaccumed the line. Last summer the unit would freeze up on very hot days. We've had the power cord replaced a couple of years ago. Anyways, when you first turn it on, it's blowing ice cold but then a slightly different humming noise will happen about 7-10 minutes after it's on. Then, the air becomes warmer and more humid. There is NO water dripping outside either. Please help. I've been online all day trying to figure out what's wrong with no luck. Thanks

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Sounds like it is either low on Freon or the compressor is going out. The blowing ice cold is an indicator that it may be freezing up because the low Freon. when it stops blowing cold, turn it to fan only mode and see if it gets colder again. If that is the case then the unit is low on freon and freezing up. I know that sounds confusing but that is how AC works. The low freon pressure means the gas is expanding too fast and the air flow cannot take up the cold from the evaporator fast enough. Turning the compressor off and keeping the fan on will alow the room air to take up the cold.

Posted on Apr 22, 2014

  • april haugen
    april haugen Apr 22, 2014

    Hi John, thanks so much for you help. It is running much better today. We used HVAC duct tape and covered the drain holes he created. I read a post in FIXYA that said: "These are designed to retain some water in the pan. This is for the slinger fan to throw water through the condensing coil. This helps the refrigerant cool and is important to the efficiency of the unit. I would certainly not recommend drilling a hole in the bottom. The hole may cause the water to roll somewhere where damage could occur. Try instead tipping the unit Backwards before bringing it in the house". So, thanks to this FIXYA post, our AC is working as it should. :) THANKS JOHN for your concern. I hope this post will help somebody else as well.

  • april haugen
    april haugen Apr 23, 2014

    Later today it kept warming up. I turned it on fan for awhile, back to cool,.. it blows cold but then stops. I'll get the guy out to test the freon. Thanks again for your help.

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If compressor is tripping on overload it may be overcharged but it wouldn't blow cold very long. The hum you are hearing is probably a fan or compressor trying to run eventually overheating and tripping out. If he put too much freon in the system the outdoor unit would run for a while but get really hot making the compressor overheat. Try to go outside and see what's going on when it does this

Posted on May 07, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

heatman101
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SOURCE: My AC unit is blowing moist, not cold air...

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Posted on Jul 19, 2010

wise_jf
  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: there is no drain hole for water to drip outside.

These are designed to retain some water in the pan. This is for the slinger fan to throw water through the condensing coil. This helps the refrigerant cool and is important to the efficiency of the unit. I would certainly not recommend drilling a hole in the bottom. The hole may cause the water to roll somewhere where damage could occur. Try instead tipping the unit Backwards before bringing it in the house.

Posted on Jul 14, 2010

  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: hums and freezes up????

The fan motor must have been stopping. If the fan stops, for sure the fins will freeze because there is no air flowing. common Fan motor problems defective bearing or bushing and starting condenser. If the bearing is defective, it will heat up and seize. Have the fan motor checked. The fact that the fins are freezing, means that there is enough freon and the compressor is working.

Posted on May 29, 2007

  • 114 Answers

SOURCE: Have a frigidare wall ac

The compressor is stopping on overload. There is either a weak breaker or an electrical problem causing the overload to open the circuit and stop the compressor. It has to be taken apart to determine what is or is not going on.

Posted on Aug 03, 2011

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http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=982440113.PDF
GE parts phone number: 800.626.2002

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Blue line connects to bottom of Faucet that comes with unit. I assume the faucet fits in pre-drilled hole in your sink, for example where the spray hose used to connect.

Yellow line connects to top of tank that comes with unit.

Green line connects to cold water line. You might have to make some changes to your cold water shut-off valve to connect green line. If product does not come with a fitting that connects to shut off, then I would probably buy a shut-off that has two connections.

geno_3245_303.jpg

Red line is a mystery. It looks like a discharge line, and the manual is blank on the installation. If the faucet does not have a second fitting, then the red line is probably suppose to rise up to the height of the faucet before dropping down into the drain. This amazingly sanitary plan does not show specifically how to tap onto the drain line, so I suppose you drill a hole and wrap it with some sort of sealant, and then duct tape the red line to side of drain pipe to make sure it doesn't fall out. But I'm not sure what installation method is best for this. It will be a challenge getting your electric drill into the cabinet to drill into chrome tubular drain pipe without bending the tubular wall. Hopefully you have a plastic drain line and perfectly sized drill bit. I can't imagine you're supposed to install a plastic cup under the sink to catch the drain flow.

Manual says you need screwdriver, pliers and a drill. The tool list seems a bit short.

Add a comment here and let others know the details of your installation because you know others have same questions, and they will see this post.

Absolutely feel obligated to upvote the free help.
Or take advantage of fixya paid help.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on smartwater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

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This can be taken sarcastically, but it isn't meant that way. The following is a blunt and honest breakdown of your repair.

Let's see, you bring it to me, I take it apart, clean your puncture, install fittings, use nitrogen to barze-repair the hole and install the fittings. The unit has been open to atmosphere for a while so it will need a drier. Check to see what kind of oil is used, if it's mineral oil or Alkyl-benzyl you're ok, if it's PAG oil, you have to change the oil (to do that you'll have to take the compressor out.

Ok. lets say the oil is ok. I get the unit apart and braaze everything in in an hour, now I put it on my vacuum pump for an hour or so, then isolate it and test for leaks. Now I wiegh the charge in. and put everything back together.

Let's give the repair 3 hours and we'll call the materials (brazing rod, acetelyne, nitrogen, 2 valves and a drier) at my cost of $45.00. I have to charge for my specialty tools, as they are not cheap and they require maintenance. I also have to fillout paperwork for the supply house, tracking that refrigerant.

With a modest hourly rate of $75.00 (from which comes my salary, vacation pay, medical, dental life insurance, rent for the shop that I did teh work in, liability insurance, payroll taxes and supprot services, such as having the valves in inventory, the electric bill paid, etc. and a typical parts mark-up (yes, we make a profit on the parts) you are looking at a minimum of $365.00 for your repair.

Unless you have a REALLY good friend in the business, who has nothing else to do, the guy at Sears was steering you in the right direction.

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