Question about Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer

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No heat. Heater coil only getting 120 volts. Have checked power to dryer and dryer is getting 240. I have checked all thermostats and fuses and all test good. I have tested by checking continuity and by bypassing part. Not sure what to test next. Please help

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Electric Dryer No-Start/No-Heat

Try check your timer, and see if you have voltage going to motor. Also check to see if you belt is installed. If broken there is a switch to the belt also. Try check you Door Lid Switch.

Posted on Feb 12, 2008

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: roper electric dryer

go back to timer ck continuity with timer in any run postion from black to blue wire (i think..better ck wiring diagram under console..you're looking for the contacts in timer to make that control motor)

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

  • 1070 Answers

SOURCE: DRYER NOT HEATING

Simple. The thermostat is nothing more than a temperature activated switch. If power goes to it put not through it when it is cool, changes are it's DOA. Don't overlook checking the heating elements while you got the unit apart. May save yourself some trouble down the line.

Good Luck

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: MY ROPER DRYER QUIT HEATING STILLS WORKS NO HEAT

The thermal cut-off , which is the small t-stat looking piece located at the top of the element housing ( on vertical mount elements ) or the far front of the element housing ( on horizontal mount elements ) , is usually the cause for no heat .

Posted on Aug 02, 2010

  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Roper dryer model RED4440 will not tumble. Belt

check the armetures

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

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2 Answers

I have kitchenaid dryer, #KEYS677EQ0, no heat. Have replaced heat element, & checked all the thermostats. I have power on the thermostat side of the element, but none on the motor side. Motor or timer


1) Have you checked to makes sure all of the connections for the heating element are correct and plugged in?
2) Have you checked to make sure any and all fuses (if any) are good?
3) Have you cleaned the interior of the dryer?
4) Have you opened the dryer up and turned it on to check to see if the heating coil is heating or not?

If you haven't done these go back and do so.

Jun 07, 2015 | KitchenAid Dryers

1 Answer

Lg rd3500 147* not working what doooooooo


Well first of all, I checked the manual, and this is not in there.
I was drying my clothes and it stopped working. The lights in the ring that choose what kind of a load you want...well the first three are blinking. The second two are not. It will not let me choose a load or drying time, and if I press start, the thing inside goes around once and then stops. I looked in the filter basket and there's nothing in there and I wiped the sheet off.
Now the lights aren't blinking and I can choose an option, but it only goes for like a minute and then stops
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. LEG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm check instead.
1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

2-Canister for the heater element.

3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

please comment on these solution by saying how helpful.mean vote.

Dec 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

We have a kenmore electric dryer runs with no heat. repair manual said to check fuses. House panel has circuit breakers none tripped manual says there are two house fuses in the dryer circuit. If one of...


Older fuse panels would have two fuses, one provides power from each 120 volt leg in the panel, therefore providing 240 volts for the heater coil. The motor in the dryer only requires 120 volts, so it may possibly still run if it is on the side with a good fuse. In newer panels that have circuit breakers, you may only have a single handle, but the breaker is a 240 volt breaker (which controls both 120 volt feeds at the same time). You will likely notice that this and all other breakers that are 240 volts are twice the width of a single 120 volt breaker. There is no "second fuse" for you to check, as the circuit breaker takes the place of both fuses in an older style panel.

If you are able to confirm that you have good power at the power connection at the back of the dryer (120 volts between black and white, 120 volts between red and white, 240 volts between red and black wires), then that typically only leaves the heater coil itself or the timer to check. Check continuity on the heater coil first, and visually inspect it for a broken or shorted coil. It is usually the culprit.

If the coil checks ok, carefully check the voltage at the terminals that feed power to the coil. Depending on the model, there may also be a thermal fuse or thermostat that is inline with the power feed to the coil itself. Check this to make sure that it has continuity as well.

I hope this helps you with your repair troubleshooting. Good luck!

Mar 13, 2010 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I am only getting 120 volts to my dryer element


did you check your fuse box and the outlet,also check the block where the cord connects to the dryer and make sure your getting 240 there,could be a fuse or the cord, if that's ok L1 connects to the heating element through the timer, a thermal fuse, the operating thermostat, and the hi-limit thermostat. The heating element then connects to L2 through the motor centrifugal switch.you need to read these parts out to see what's bad,hope this helps

Feb 10, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer blows no hot air


HI

THE DRYER HEATER OPERATES ON 240VOLTS. CHECK TO BE SURE YOU HAVE 240 VOLTS AT THE OUTLET. WITH ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT, THE MOTOR WILL RUN ON 120 VOLTS, BUT THE HEAT CIRCUIT WILL NOT.

MOST DRYERS HAVE A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT NEAR THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. SOME HAVE A THERMAL FUSE AS WELL. THE HIGH LIMIT WILL CYCLE, BUT THE THERMAL FUSE WILL NOT RESET. CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE HEATER TERMINALS. IF YOU HAVE IT, THE HEATER IS BAD.
IF NOT, TRACE BACK THROUGH THE CIRCUIT UNTIL YOU FIND THE COMPONENT WITH THE 240 VOLTS ACROSS IT.
THAT WILL BE THE BAD COMPONENT.

MAKE SURE THE SELECTOR SWITCH IS SET FOR HEAT.
OITHER ITEM IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT:
CYCLING THERMOSTAT, TIMER, SELECTOR SWITCH, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH.

THANKS FOR CONTACTING FIXYA.COM

Sep 11, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do you check voltage to dryer?


The first thing you should check on a electric dryer when it does not heat or run is the voltage at the cord.

If you do not have the correct voltage your dryer will not heat and may not even start.

The dryer needs 240 volts for the heater to work. It gets 240 volts by using two 120 volt lines. If one of these 120 volt lines is dead it will not heat. It may or may not still run as the dryer only needs 120 volts for the motor to run.

If you have one 120 volt line missing power and it is the same 120 volt line that runs to the motor then the dryer will not run or heat.

May 30, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Ler662


CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT DRYER ELEMENT WITH DRYER
RUNNING IN HEAT CYCLE. IF NO VOLTAGE, CHECK WALL
OUTLET FOR 240 VOLTS BETWEEN LEFT AND RIGHT SLOTS IN RECEPTACLE. A DRYER WILL RUN ON 120 VOLTS TO
GROUND BUT WILL NOT HEAT IF 240 VOLTS IS NOT PRESENT. IF THERE IS 240 AT THE OUTLET, START TRACING THROUGH THE HEATER CIRCUIT. LOOK FOR A FAILED THERMOSTAT OR THERMAL FUSE NEAR THE HEATER OR EXHAUST OUTLET. CHECK THEM WITH A CONTINUITY TEST WITH DRYER UNPLUGGED, OR A VOLTAGE CHECK WITH A HOT CIRCUIT.

Jul 28, 2008 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No hot air


THE DRYER HEATER OPERATES ON 240VOLTS. CHECK TO BE SURE YOU HAVE 240 VOLTS AT THE OUTLET. WITH ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT, THE MOTOR WILL RUN ON 120 VOLTS, BUT THE HEAT CIRCUIT WILL NOT.

MOST DRYERS HAVE A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT NEAR THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. SOME HAVE A THERMAL FUSE AS WELL. THE HIGH LIMIT WILL CYCLE, BUT THE THERMAL FUSE WILL NOT RESET. CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE HEATER TERMINALS. IF YOU HAVE IT, THE HEATER IS BAD.
IF NOT, TRACE BACK THROUGH THE CIRCUIT UNTIL YOU FIND THE COMPONENT WITH THE 240 VOLTS ACROSS IT.
THAT WILL BE THE BAD COMPONENT.

MAKE SURE THE SELECTOR SWITCH IS SET FOR HEAT.
OITHER ITEM IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT:
CYCLING THERMOSTAT, TIMER, SELECTOR SWITCH, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH.

Apr 03, 2008 | Dryers

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