Question about Schwinn Cycling
Manual no help tried breaker bar wd-40 brass punch large hammer heated any body got ideals because i cant remove crank with that cup in there and i need to replace the bearings
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You wil need a couple of special tools, or be fairly creative with the tools you have.
to assemble, reverse above procedure, insuring bearing play is minimalized.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
This isn't Bike Repair 101-level stuff. Take it to a reputable bike shop and have them teach you while they do it. If they're cartridge bearings it's fairly simple. Next time, you can handle it. Be advised, crankset removal tools are specialized and expensive for the casual bike owner who would use them only once every few years..
Posted on Feb 15, 2010
Testimonial: "After more investigation, I strongly agree!"
SOURCE: So my Dynacraft Next turbo
the little balls are the bearings, ie: ball bearings, so they are the size, take them to a bike shop and get a replacement kit.
Your crank is probably not bent , it takes a big crash or something to bend one. there is an adusjment nut and lock nut to set them back up. could be LH thread on the left hand side
Posted on Jun 03, 2011
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Disassembly Make sure that you have all the parts and tools you will need. The extent of disassembly depends on the job being done and the inspection findings. Lift the vehicle using an appropriate lift or a jack and safe jack stands. Always make certain that the vehicle is safely supported before working underneath. Unbolt the driveshaft from the yoke. Remove the differential cover or unbolt the third member. Let the oil drain into a suitable container. Please recycle your waste oil. Remove c-clip axles by removing the differential cross pin bolt and cross pin shaft, pushing the axles in and pulling the c-clips. Full float axles are unbolted at the hubs. Punch both carrier caps with identification marks so that you will be able to re-install them on the same side and in the same direction. Most carriers can be pried out of the housing with a pry bar. Further disassembly depends on the job being done. If you're changing the ring and pinion or the pinion bearings, remove the pinion nut with an air gun while holding the yoke, or use a long breaker bar and brace the yoke (bolt it to a long board) so that it can't move. Knock the pinion gear out to the rear with a brass punch, taking care not to damage the threads. Keep track of the location and thickness of all of the original shims. Pinion bearings must be pressed off. Carrier bearings can be pulled using a bearing puller. Internal parts (inside the carrier) can be removed as necessary.
Inspect all bearings and races for
pitting or uneven wear. The inner carrier bearing races
should not spin on the carrier journals. The carrier
races should have a snug fit in the housing. Inspect the
carrier race bores for grooves from spinning races. The
side gear bores inside the carrier should not have any
abnormal wear. All gear teeth (including the spider
gears) should be smooth but not excessively shiny.
Inspect all gear teeth for pitting, chips, breaks, and
for signs of uneven wear and overheating. Inspect
positraction clutches for scoring and wear. Inspect the
axles for pitted, grooved, or dull and rough bearing
surfaces. Check for worn axle splines. All questionable
parts should be replace
The four essential differential adjustments are pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, backlash and carrier bearing preload. The tables at the back can be used to write down shim combinations and results.
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