I have a GoldStar DH50E or something like that? Anyway, it's only about 2 years old and a power surge blew out a few things in my house.
I've found a replacement fuse but I also need to replace the Varister ZNRO1J. However, I can not find this Varister anywhere? Can you please help me find one so that I can sodder this puppy back into my board.
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Hi, It could be just the sensor, but not likely... many times it is the circuit board that goes bad, making the repair almost prohibitive.. as the circuit board, if you can find one, is often half or more the cost of a new unit... But you are correct... if the unit thinks the humidity is 20% then it will not bring on the compressor...that is what is happening...
Take cover off. First check the fuse on the circuit board. If it's blown replace it. That should get the motor running, the motor might be or is going out. If the motor is bad you'll have to replace the motor. If the fuse is good and the motor is good, unhook the wires on circuit board that go to the humidity control switch. If the unit comes on with the humidity control switch unhooked, you'll have to replace the humidity control switch. Sears has them for about $11.50. Hope this helps.
It sounds like there is an issue with the controller board. LG has a 5 year warranty on these models. You may want to contact them first instead of opening it up because it could void the warranty. My recommendation is to have this serviced if it is under warranty. They usually will tell you of a service center nearby which will service it free of charge since it is under warranty. If you do not live near a service center they may ship you a replacement and you send your old dehumidifier back to them. Make sure you have your reciept when you contact them so they can verify it is under 5 years old.
I took my dehumidifier apart and I found why the unit no longer would start.
First, there is a fuse inside the metal compartment that houses the control circuit board. However, the fuse was not blown. Instead I found the relay that controls the compressor, (circuit diagram calls it RY-COMP) was not functioning and was left in the open position. The relay must switch the compressor on/off based on humidity, full water hopper, and maybe other factors like temperature.
The RY-COMP is a large black plastic component on the circuit board with two wires (blue and black) connected at the top. I tested the contacts and they remained open when starting up the dehumidifier. Doing a small bit of rewiring so that the blue and black wire were connected and also wired to RY-COMP terminal 3, the dehumidifier came back to life. However, this is good for proving what broke but without an electronic control to cycle the unit on and off and to halt when the water hopper is full it's not a valuable alternative and it risks a burnout of the compressor from constant use.
I think the RY-COMP relay is a solid state relay which could have gone bad from a spike in voltage when plugging the unit in or cycling on/off.
I certainly don't want to buy another unit where the circuitry is not robust enough to survive plugging in every couple weeks. I was thinking I could try replacing the relay with a magnet relay which would probably survive spikes much better.
Check the relative humidity in the room or space where you are operating the dehumidifier. Damp feeling and actual humidity level are two separated items. Humidifiers will run for a few minutes until it is signaled that the humidity is already low enough and then shut down.