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Putting spring white washer & black rubber stopper back into tassimo water tank

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: i was cleaning the water tank and i accidently

Hi!

I've got the same problem and I managed to solve it.
So you have to put the plastic stopper to the buttom of the water tank in way that the wider end is down. You must hang the spring on the plastic stoppers narrow end so it would be placed between the water tanks bottom and the plastic stopper. Then you have to place the rubber washer from inside the water tank on the plastic stoppers narrow end. So would look like the following: plastic stopper -> spring -> water tank -> rubber washer

Posted on Dec 08, 2010

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Problem with Hamilton Beach Brewstation I have the water tank apart and I need to know how to put the spring and seal back in


I'll assume you have the pivoting arm with the rubber washer stopper apart. The rubber stopper pulls out of its housing. If you have that out you need to stuff it back in its hole with a small screwdriver. If not: the pivot for the arm rests in two grooves; the arm is held UP with a spring under the arm. (The top of the washer seals the dispensing hole from inside the pot.) The pot has an indentation the spring fits in, the arm also has a depression to hold the spring. It's tricky, but u can get everything lined up in order to put the holding plate (with the 2 screws) in place. (Hold the assembly in place with one finger and with the other hand put a finger thru the holding plate. Move the holding plate toward its final position and switch fingers holding the assembly in place. You're now holding the assembly with the finger that has the holding plate.) Position the holding plate and tighten the screws.

Jun 11, 2014 | Hamilton Beach Brewstation 48465

1 Answer

Drain pump not draining water


You will need to check the drain filter for obstuctions, bra wires,coins hair cilps etc. You will need a low tray to catch the water, there is a front flap that pulls open on the bottom front corner of machine. Find the small black rubber tube with a white stopper, unclip and gentally pull it out of machine, unplug and drain water into tray, this will take some time unless you can move the machine outside to drain,that means removing the knob next to the rubber tube, unscrew. anti clock wise, watch out for a flood of water . if something is jammed you may have too pull on the knob . Only goes back in one way. Reverse to put back together.

Jun 13, 2011 | LG WM-3677HW Front Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

After about 100 miles or so my header tank slowly fills with water,i can **** it out of the header tank back to the max then put it back in the rad, so the rad is full and the header tank is at max,with...


G'day.
I guess your wondering what is going on- no loss of coolant but it's moving from the radiator to the catch tank.You put it back in the radiator & back it goes to the catch tank again- seems like somthings wrong but the answer is simple really.
As your bike warms up,the cooant in the radiator expands with the heat & moves excess to the catch tank.
Then the water contracts when the bike cools down & some of the coolant is now in the catch tank & the radiator a bit low.
So what to do.
Run it & this time don't put the excess back in the radiator.
Set the catch tank to max & then just moniter whats going on from there.
It's normal for the radiator to be down just that bit when cold to allow for the water expansion when it gets hot.
If the radiator gets too low ,coolant will be drawn out of the catch tank to fill it up.
This is called a coolant recovery system & is commonly fitted to liquid cooled bikes.
The part to check is the radiator cap.
You will see two rubber parts on the under side of the cap.
One black rubber on a spring & the other seal just under the lip of the cap.Check that these are not damaged.
If either is split replace the radiator cap.
I hope this has been of some help.
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

May 11, 2011 | kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Motorcycles

1 Answer

Missing rear axle. is there a way to replace? the company won't.


I had the same problem. I bought this scooter for my daughter at a flea market and the rear axle was gone, someone had tried to fix it with a bolt, but it was very unstable. Here is what I did and it has seemed to work well. This will cost you less that 10.00 at your nearest home improvement store.
You will need
1x - 5/16 x 8 hex bolt 1x - 5/16 nut 4x - 5/16 x 1 1/4 flat washers 2x - 1 1/4 hard rubber stoppers 1x - 3/8 drill bit & drill 1x - gorilla glue or lock tight
Ok... before we start let me tell you what all this is for and how it works. The way I assembled this was, hex bolt, 1 washer, wheel for scooter, 1 washer, 1 rubber stopper (Insert this into the metal tube on the back of the scooter, so that on the other side you will just have a bolt sticking thru) now, 1x rubber stopper, 1x washer, other scooter wheel, 1x washer, hex nut.
The rubber stoppers are the hardest part and the reason for them is to keep the bolt going thru the middle of the axle tube. This will help to eliminate the scooter from wobbling.
Now, if you have read this far here is how we did it in order.
1. Take both rubber stoppers and trim them with a kitchen knife so that they will fit into the metal tube on the back of the scooter securely. (do not push them all the way in yet)
2. Drill a hole thru the middle of both trimmed rubber stoppers with the drill and bit
3. Take your hex bolt and slide a washer on
4. Slide your 1st wheel on
5. Slide on a 2nd washer
6. push on the trimmed rubber stopper to where it meets the washer. (The wheel should be able to still spin pretty freely, If you think it is to tight just pull the rubber stopper up a bit)
7. Take this assembly and push it into one side of the metal tube on the back of the scooter (you want the rubber stopper to be and flush with the edge of the metal tube and you can)
8. Your hex bolt will be stick out of the other end of the tube, slide on the last rubber stopper try and work it into the tube as best you can.
9. slide on 3rd washer
10. Slide on last wheel
*At this point I put the scooter on its side and pushed down on the wheel to force the stopper into the tube
11. slide on 4th washer
12. screw on nut
*Now I found that if you put the nut on to tight the wheels would not turn, but if you left it loose it would fall off.
13. To fix the above issue we put some gorilla glue on the bolt threads and screwed the nut on, we would spin the back wheels until we were happy with the amount of tension on the wheel. We then put some more glue on the top of the nut to help hold it in place.
14. Let the glue dry
Thats how I fixed my daughters scooter. I am in NO WAY a professional or expert at this stuff. Just a dad trying to make his baby happy. Hope this works for you!

Jan 26, 2011 | Bravo Dora the Explorer 3 Wheel Scooter

3 Answers

Tassimo red light stays on ran descaling disc twice


After many months, I solved the problem of the red light staying on the Tassimo Coffee Maker. Use these easy steps.
1. Fill a 2 cup measuring cup with hot water.
2. Mix in descaler.
3. Pour in the empty water tank.
4. Put the yellow cleaning disk in the chamber and close chamber. Put the two cup measuring cup under the spout.
5. Push and hold the brew button for about 3 seconds (until the red and green light flash.
6. Now don't touch the machine. It will do it's thing for about 20 minutes. (Don't be impatient and start to push buttons, just leave it)
7. When it finishes it's cycle. The red light will turn off. Then clean the water tank and put fresh water and run clean water through the brewing cycle 4 times. Your machine is now ready for use.

Sep 23, 2010 | Bosch Tassimo TAS4511UC Coffee Maker

1 Answer

Diswasher wont drain


did u put it back together properly?....that rubber stopper may have been the plug that stops water going to one of the levels....some washers have a half wash cycle that alloys only one level tobe washed for small loads ect.

Jul 20, 2010 | GE Nautilus 24" Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

I was cleaning the water tank and i accidently knocked out the spring, tiny black plastic stopper and the white rubber washer, please could you help me put it all back together again, hopefully this can be...


Hi!

I've got the same problem and I managed to solve it.
So you have to put the plastic stopper to the buttom of the water tank in way that the wider end is down. You must hang the spring on the plastic stoppers narrow end so it would be placed between the water tanks bottom and the plastic stopper. Then you have to place the rubber washer from inside the water tank on the plastic stoppers narrow end. So would look like the following: plastic stopper -> spring -> water tank -> rubber washer

Jul 08, 2010 | Gaggia Caffitaly K111 Coffee Maker

3 Answers

All the lights are flashing on my Braun Tassimo TA1200 and will not make coffee


Several possibilities: (1) No water in tank.
(2) Tank not inserted properly. Try removing tank and then replacing it, making sure that the hook-tab at the back of the tassimo body engages the matching slot at the front of the tank.
(3) Tank not seated properly. Try pressing down on the tank and twisting left or right. If this stops the blinking and allows your drink to brew, at least you know where the problem is. If you have to do this all the time, consider exchanging the unit.
(4) The lights will all also blink if there is residue (coffee, milk, etc) on the bar code reader window. The residue is usually plainly visible. The bar code reader window is a horizontal rectangel directly under where the bar code of the T-Disc sits in the Tassimo. To fix this, just wipe the window clean (no need to scrub), close the lid again and check for blinking.

Aug 07, 2009 | Braun Tassimo TA1200 Espresso Machine

3 Answers

Cleaning solution will not dispense


This seems to be a very common problem with the FloorMate, and fortunately it seems to be about the only glaring problem with this otherwise fantastic machine. Worst-case scenario - you will need to merely buy a NEW solution tank for your FloorMate to fix this problem. Here's the mend, on the cheap.

First, do this since it's preventative maintenance that likely is long overdue anyway:
Unplug the machine and remove both reservoirs.
Release the handle as if you were about to use the machine and lay it all the way down. Do this on a counter top with the brush head over or near the sink, or alternately a kitchen table works fine too, just have plenty of towels or paper towels on hand to catch any liquid.
Push the nozzle release tabs outward and take the nozzle off of the machine.
Press the brush release buttons and remove it as well.
Use an old toothbrush and some dish detergent in the sink to clean all the parts as good as possible internally.
Flip the FloorMate over so the underside of the head is facing up. Check the tiny holes where the brush assembly goes, and verify there aren't any clogged [there shouldn't be since dirt never reaches this area]. That is where the solution dispenses from and is dispersed by the spinning brushes.
Reassemble the freshly rinsed brush assembly and nozzle into the head of the unit and close the nozzle latches.

Now, on to the problem at hand:
What I found was the problem with my FloorMate not dispensing any fluid was that the plunger inside the solution tank was pushed up too far into the body of that tank. It is a little black piece, about 2 inches long, is shaped like a pin, and should descend from that hole about one eighth of an inch or so. Since mine [and likely yours] is up in there too high [mine was flush with the bottom of that hole], when you put the tank back into the FloorMate, the post inside the drain hole in the FloorMate isn't sufficiently reaching your recessed plunger to push it up inside the tank which then would allow the cleaner to dispense.

To remedy this, I'll list what I think is the easiest remedy first, followed by how I did it by trial and error:

I recommend using a tartar scraper like the dentist uses, about $2 at Walmart in the toothpaste aisle.
What you're trying to accomplish is to pull the plunger down about an eighth of an inch, as it has slid up further inside the rubber stopper it's attached to than it should be. Don't use too much force when attempting this repair as you might pop the plunger out of the tank completely. If so, see the ALL IS NOT LOST! section further down.
Open the solution reservoir and empty it, and then reinsert the top cap in the event the parts come loose so they won't fall out and go down the drain or otherwise.
Turn the reservoir upside down.
Put the curved end of the tartar scraper into the small drain hole in this reservoir, hook it just above the black plus-sign shaped part of the plunger, and pull down slightly but not too much. You want the two little black plastic "wings" on the bottom of the plunger to extend below the bottom of the drain hole. If you use too much force when pulling, you'll likely dislodge the entire plunger from the rubber stopper and spring that are inside the reservoir. If this happens, ALL IS NOT LOST! :) Just use patience and good lighting, and keep your work area neat and dry, and see two paragraphs down.

TESTING
Once the plunger is now sticking out of the bottom of the reservoir on its own, fill it up with tap water and hold it upright over the sink. It should not be dripping, but a few drops is not a deal breaker either - this rubber stopper/plunger is to keep the tank from leaking/dripping/draining while you're refilling the tank and putting it back in the machine. A few drops coming out is harmless.
Use the tip of a finger and, holding the tank upright, push up on the plunger. Water should run freely. If so, stand the FloorMate in its locked upright position on the counter or kitchen table and reinsert the tank. If at the sink, put the edge of the brush head over the sink, or if you're at the table place a hand towel under the brushes. Pull the trigger and hold it, and you should see the flow continue uninterrupted until the tank is empty, about 3 minutes [the sink is obviously better, here].
If it emptied completely, your work is done. Pat yourself on the back and go clean your floor! :)
If not, take the tank out and try to pull the plunger down just a little bit further, but not beyond one quarter of an inch from the bottom of the drain hole. Keep doing this until you have satisfactory results.
Note that the solution should dispense SOMEWHAT evenly from the brushes while you're testing this - don't worry if it's running fast out of one or more brushes and only dripping from others. The spinning action of the brushes spreads the solution out evenly. What you want to watch for is that the flow continues uninterrupted until the tank is empty.

ALL IS NOT LOST!
Here's how I did this repair during my trial and error investigation:
I used needle-nosed pliers and reached down inside the top hole in the solution tank.
I squeezed the top of the black plunger pin slightly and pushed down until it came out of the bottom of the tank. What remained inside [now loose in the tank!] were the rubber stopper and the spring that sits atop that stopper. I shook them out of the tank and reinserted the spring into the same-size part of the stopper, dropped it into the tank and played a game of skill & chance until I got it back where it was supposed to be and then inserted my tartar scraper into the hole from the bottom, up through the center of the stopper and the spring assembly, and pulled the spring down slightly to get it all back where it needed to be. Challenging but it took less than two patient minutes to do this.
Now turn the tank upside down again and carefully reinsert the plunger into the stopper, but don't push too hard. Make sure you're pushing in a straight line as your goal is to go all the way through the center of the spring and back into the retaining hole above the spring.
Now that the plunger is back home, you'll see it's sticking out about one half of an inch from the bottom of the tank - entirely TOO much!
Using the blunt handle end of my tartar scraper, I pushed the plunger firmly back into place until it bottomed out, causing it to reseat with the rubber stopper. I had to do this about 5 times before only the two plastic "wings" were sticking out from the bottom of that hole. Be careful you don't slip and slice open an artery on you or someone nearby. Perhaps consider using a less-sharp tool for this step if you're not sure of yourself here. Once the plunger is where it should be, see the TESTING section above to make sure you're in the clear.

Since other's solutions posted for this problem are too vague and possibly suggests you modify your FloorMate unnecessarily which will likely lead to future and perhaps irreparable problems, and my solution is very wordy, I'm going to soon make a repair video and post it on YouTube and I'll link to it here in my solution so you can watch instead of read.

Good luck, be careful, and enjoy using your FloorMate once again. :) WHEEEEEEE!!!

Dan


Nov 21, 2007 | Hoover Floormate H3000 Upright Wet/Dry...

4 Answers

Tank full light stays lit.


Under the water bottle is a drain hole,when the bottle overflows water runs down this hole through a pipe to a reservoir behind the condensor unit, there is a float in this reservoir that rises and clicks a switch that activates the full tank light and stops the machine working,
removing the stopper at the rear and emptying the reservior should do the trick,If the float does not go back down due to dirt in the machine the left hand side panel can be removed by taking off the top then the retaining screws,one inside at the top the rest in the back panel,remove the one screw holding the float switch unit and clean the black float.(Make sure it's not plugged in)

Sep 22, 2006 | Tricity Bendix TM310W Electric Dryer

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