When I opened up my dryer for cleaning, I noticed one of the lead wires had melted/charred insulation on the end that hooked up to the heating element and also on the other end which terminated on the motor. From the motor it hooked through a switch to the black on the incoming power. The insulation was melted about 1/2 inch on each end by the connector. I replaced the connectors. The dryer works fine. Is this something that needs more attention? Is it safe to run? Frigidaire Model# DRS2462BC
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Re: Charred wire connectors
You may have had an over voltage situation on your electrical utility line or a lightning strike. I'd recommend you have an electrician check your electrical system. It's also possible youre dryer may be getting too hot. If the electrical system checks out ok you may want to call teh maker of your dryer.
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Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet
Use an Allen wrench to remove the bolts on the console cover. Lift the cover and locate the safety switch. It will be in proximity to the key slot. Depending on the particular treadmill, the switch may or may not be attached to the console cover.
Locate the wire leads on either side of the safety switch. Most often, the switch is enclosed in a housing and a pair of leads may attach to terminal posts on the housing. Remove the leads from the terminal posts by turning the brass screws counterclockwise with a small screwdriver. If the leads do not terminate outside the switch housing, use wire strippers to cut the leads close to the housing.
Strip the ends of the switch leads 1/4 inch to expose bare wire. Twist the ends of the stranded wire tight with your fingers. This is necessary for a good contact. Cut a piece of insulated wire as a jumper bypass that attaches between the ends of the switch leads. Strip the ends of the jumper wire 1/4 inch and twist the stranded wire ends.
Insert each end of the switch leads into an insulated crimp connector. Crimp the connectors with the wire strippers to secure the wires. Insert the ends of the jumper into the open ends of each crimp connector. Crimp the connectors with wire strippers.
Wrap the jumper wire and crimp connectors with electrical tape. Continue the wraps onto each of the switch leads. Replace the console cover and reinstall the bolts that hold it in place. Plug in the treadmill power cord and press the "Start" button on the console to turn the treadmill on.
Things You'll Need
Insulated electrical wire
Soldered connections can be used in place of crimp connectors. Refer to the owner's manual or solicit the manufacturer for a wiring schematic, if necessary. Use a similar gauge and type wire as the jumper bypass.
The fuse should have nothing to do with the blower....so you should be experiencing a direct short within the control circuit. Look for the obvious...like burned or charred wires off of the sensors and other components or melted insulation on a couple wires allowing the wires to short together. Not a lot to go on here, but like I said earlier, start with the obvious.
Hard to diagnose, but SAFETY alert, all inspection work MUST be done with the power off - some places cord disconnected.
Oven electricity is dangerous.
The oven right now could be dangerous. Call professional or the last 'repairman'. make that call if you value your life or your partners.
First hunch is you have had work done on the oven before, badly and something is shorting, wire insulation melted, or a spade type lug moved. Multimeter will reveal the truth.
An oven service manual to track the short would be nice, but I expect
a blacked or charred spot will be visible around either the switch or wires leading from it.
make sure your using a heat compatible connector when replacing ,, the ones you get for automotive work just can't handle the heat range in a dryer, also, check the element itself for any weak spots or charred sections,
when you're in the back of the dryer,slide your cord through the metal bracket,stick the middle wire to the middle block connector,stick the right side cord wire to the right side of the block with the yellow and black wires and stick the left side of the cord to the left side of the block,now if you only see two connectors on the block then you have to buy a new block because the right side that had the yellow and black wires cooked and most likely damaged the block,so when you get the new block hook the yellow and black wires together on the right side of the block with the right side of your cord and then stick the other wires that are there in the same place on the new block with your cord,there should be one or two white wires in the middle and a blue or red wire on the left side but just take them off and put them on the same way as they are now onto the new block and you should be fine,hope this helps you out.
Any wires in the upper portion of your dryer would not be to blame, and the heater coils are usually encased in ceramic loops. so they shouldn't cause a problem. On occasion the wires in a dryer could be touching somewhere that is hot melting the insulation off the wire, this sounds like it could be your problem. Check all the wires in the heated areas around your drum and lint catcher. If you find charred wires repair them and tape with electrical tape and then tape over that with automotive heat tape.
I also had this problem. I looked on this site and before even opening up the machine, ordered a new heating element. After I received the new heating element which came with a service booklet, I opened the top of my machine. I started to begin the process of getting to the heating element(a very long process) when I noticed a red wire connecting to the thermostat was burnt and its plastic insulator was melted. I then pulled out the thermostat (a very long needle) and took the advice of Jagjared and opened up the thermostat and cleaned it. I then cut the burnt part of the red wire and connector off and stripped a small amout of the red wire and attached a new insulated connector that I purchased at the hardware store. I then reinserted the thermostat(which took a while because its hard to find the hole that the needle goes into) and then connected both hot and ground wires. I'm not sure what Jagjared meant when he said that he was able relocate the thermostat because I'm only able to place it exactly where I pulled it out. Maybe he can explain?? Anyway, this was a very easy fix. I think I'm pretty handy but would consider myself only an amatuer when it comes to issues like this. I think I might have had a very difficult time actually replacing the heating element so I'm glad I didn't have to. Hope this helps you all.
Wires are rated to handle a certain amount of amps. Your dryer cord is bigger than your coffee maker cord because your dryer pulls more amps. What is going on with your heater is your heater is drawing more amps than the wire can handle. Therefore the wire is getting hot, melting the insulation. Hopefully it shorts out before it catches on fire!!! BOTH BAD SCENERIOS!!! It is possible your machine is just excessively dirty, therefore working extremely hard, drawing high amps. If you are able to give a good cleaning, do so. Let dry and turn heater on DURING A TIME WHEN YOU CAN MONITOR IT, NOT OVERNIGHT. See if it has made a significant improvement. If not, it's time for a new heater!! Best Wishes!!