Question about Craftsman Convertible 25cc. Gas Line Trimmer
Model 358.791050 Sim-pull. Replaced fuel lines, filter, and plug. Disassembled and cleaned carb completely. Starts in choke mode, but revs sky high. When switched to "run" it'll stall out. Like it's starving for fuel. All diaphrams are good, fuel lines are unrestricted, carb is fresh and clean, fresh pre-mix fuel. Will not idle. Primer bulb works, but slow to pop back up. ???
Diaphrams can be tricky sometimes...seating can be irritating. If carb disassembled and cleaned out...might have to check adjustments. Make sure screw didn't get loose. I had one do that before when governor broke.
Posted on Jun 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Make sure the line is near the botto ofthe tank.Thanks you for asking and I hope it helps.Please leave me a 4 thumbs up.
Posted on Jul 20, 2010
Hi There, Check the primer bulb for tare or pin holes. Replace it. Check and clean carb jet it maybe plugged with debree. Also check for spark which you didn't say. Replace with correct plug.
Note; Do not use strong cleaners on rubber seals (O rings and gaskets) They dry up and crack.
If needed use a dabble of grease on seals
Posted on Jun 13, 2011
Testimonial: "Thank you. I had to merely add more gas to tank & bulb siphoned fine. Changed the plug and bingo! It started & runs great. "
SOURCE: Craftsman line trimmer 25cc 17"
What caused the old bulb to crack is time and fuel...
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting a nice blue spark then:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Aug 12, 2011
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