Question about Whirlpool GC5SHEXNS Side by Side Refrigerator
Hinged seal is warm to touch, areas around refrigerator have been cleaned, the fan is working. Refrigerator is not cool, freezer is working.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the compressor and the relay. Make sure they are working when you turn on freezer and fridge to the max. If the compressor does not start then you need a new relay. If the compressor starts then it is your thermostat that has gone bad and must be replaced. you can find the parts on repairclinic.com and order them with instructions on how to remove the bad part and install the new part
Posted on May 20, 2009
Not an original solution - but a good one. Remove panels at the back of the freezer compartment to expose the heater unit or heater wire that defrosts the freezer coils and wrap a solid copper wire gently around the heater/ heater wire and place the loose end in the drain. This will conduct heat to the freezer drain and help keep it open. I did see a manufactured part in one of the appliance parts websites but it did not match my unit.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
The overload/relay on the compressor is shorted . This is the piece with 2 or 3 wires connected to it , mounted on the compressor . The part # you need is 8201786 . Complete mounting instructions , come with this kit . Easily replaceable .
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
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