Question about Refrigerators
Our Dometic 3-way fridge freezer has begun playing up in our motorhome. In the evening/night when on gas, the gas fails to ignite. We hear it clicking for a while and then give up. After trying a couple more times it starts beeping. Not a problem during the day when it works fine. Is it something to do with the temperature? The thing is that it's not that cold at the moment and we have been in far colder conditions (e.g.snow). Any help is appreciated!
You may need to put a heating blanket on the LP tank, the temperature determines the amount of pressure on the tank and when the temp drops you lose propane pressure thus no ignition and a lockout alarm.
Posted on Apr 25, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like the compressor is locked up or the relay on the compressor is bad. whats happening is its drawing too much current and cutting out from the overlaod relay. that may be a bad compressor or the start relay. both the overload and the relay are under the black box on the front of the compressor. you will need to check the relay to make sure its good, and also the compressor. there should be a wiring diagram on the back that will tell you how many ohms from terminal to terminal on the compressor. hope it helped if its a newer unit the relays are electronic and if you shake it and hear like little sand pebbles in it most likley its bad and thats why it wont run.
Posted on Aug 10, 2007
It sounds like you have a plugged defrost
drain line. This is where the water goes to in the bottom of your
freezer when it goes through the defrost (removal of ice from the
freezer coil) cycle. It sounds like that hole is plugged and now the
water/ice has now frozen in the vent that lets air circulate down into
your refrigerator compartment. What I usually do in this case is to
unplug the refrigerator, empty out the freezer compartment. Usually I
also end up either pulling off the back panel or the bottom panel (in
the freezer compartment) Looking for that defrost drain hole and
actually I use a hair dryer. I can sometimes do this also by pouring
small amounts of HOT tap water onto it and then sopping/absorbing it
away with a sponge or dishcloth. I repeat this until I get the water to
go down the drain tube.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Jun 13, 2008
I am going to first sugest to do a direct test on the cooling unit. You will first need to locate the 110Volt heating element on the rear of the refrigerator. It is located in the tin stack on the right hand side. After locating these two wires, you must plug them in to a 110 Volt source. You can do so by cutting an old extension cord and splicing the wires to to the heating element wires, then plug the extension cord in. This will by pass the thermostat and run your cooling system wide open. If your refrigerator works in a direct test then the problem is your thermostat. If you need any more info, please feel free to contact my company Arctic Cold Refrigeration @ 1888-782-6665 or by email email@example.com
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
SOURCE: warm fridge cold freezer
Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck & thanks for using fixya! Mike p.s. please don't forget to rate this free solution.
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
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