Question about True Sandwich Unit - TSSU-27-12M-C
Thermostat(Ranco A30-2210 spec'ed for 30 - 43F) on True Sandwich Cooler.
The capilary sensor is inserted into small tube mounted along upper evaporator part way.
Insertion lenght identical to what was found when exchanged, about 20 inches etc.
The compressor does fine until the lowest Dial setting is being attempted.
The signal from the TSTAT is then cycling too often and temp does not go down past 40F in space.
Target is 33 to 38 F
Plugging in Comp direct in uncontrolled Outlet brings temp down, no problem.
What do I miss here?
Why is there an apparent block to lower temp...
what causes that cycling of TSTAT?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The unit has a temperature swing adjustment screw located behind the thermostat plate.If you remove the knob and the face plate you will see it,It can be adjusted there.It may also be the thermostat bulb is going bad or touching something and giving a false signal to the compressor.
Posted on May 03, 2009
possible bad defrost timer,or control on an off is bad,were you adjust temperature...thermostat from 30 to 65.00 dollars....possible there is leak or unit is under or overcharged..more than likely under charged...possible defrost heater is not working...good luck..michael doctor airr appl.repair..service tech..843-384-8474...call if need additional help ..its free..
Posted on Mar 27, 2010
Look for doors not properly closing, poor air flow over coil or something blocking air flow, improper freon level.
check out this web site as it has a manual for your equipment. it has lots of good info. Hope this helps. If you need more help, let me know.
Posted on Jun 13, 2010
SOURCE: I have a True GDM-10
Thank you for choosing FixYa. I wanted to ask quickly, why are you using a Ranco temperature controller? According to the manual for this refridgerator (available here even though it doesn't have the model listed, this is what I got every time I searched for this model, so I'm assuming it's the same) on page 20, there is a procedure for altering the internal temperature.
You will need a philips screwdriver, a 5/64" or 2mm allen wrench, and a T-7 torx wrench (all available at home depot, etc). You'll need to alter the temperature by a +20 on the low end, and +33 on the high end. These are referred to cut out and cut in temperatures, respectively. Follow the instructions on the manual to remove the temperature control. Each quarter turn increases the temperature by 2 degrees, to to increase your cut out temperature (the low end) to 50 degrees, you'll need to turn the allen screw clockwise 10/4 turns, or 5 full revolutions. Likewise for the cut in temperature (the high end), turn the T-7 torx screw 6 full revolutions clockwise, followed by a quarter turn (to increase to 67). If you want it up to 68, give it another 1/8 turn.
You can fine tune the temperature (with a little bit of effort and time) by replacing the temperature module then using a digital thermometer to measure the temperature. If it's outside the bounds of your needs, take the temperature control back out and tweak the controls a bit. Clockwise is warmer, anti-clockwise is colder.
I don't know if this actually solves your problem or is impossible for you, but I wanted to let you know in case you weren't aware that this model has a built-in functionality for altering the temperature. The issue you're running into is that constant cycling of the compressor without allowing it to defrost every now and then is very harmful to the system and can end up burning out your compressor, leaving you with very costly repairs.
Also take a look at this document. It is a technical service document for GDM models, and may contain some very good information. It sounds like you are fairly mechanically inclined, so I don't believe that you should have any trouble following the instructions.
Hopefully I could help, let me know if there's anything I didn't answer or anything else I can tell you!
Posted on Jul 26, 2011
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