Question about Minolta Maxxum HTsi Plus 35mm SLR Camera
Batteries are good, it turns on right away and it sounds like it's trying to accept the film but with no result.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Apperture base plate set needs replacing or there is a short in the camera ( camera dropped or acid leak ? ) . Especially the first broblem can be sorted only by trained people with some experience.
Posted on Aug 28, 2007
SOURCE: Unable to rewind film in camera
Well, I used to work at a camera store and actually encountered this a number of times with Minolta's. I can't remember if the motors wore out or if the film slipped or tore at the track. The solution: take the camera into a darkroom or pitch black environment and remove the film by hand. Bring a pair of scissors and a black film container just in case the film tears or the track is torn. Obviously be careful to ensure no light is available if you can't access a darkroom. Check the bottom of the camera for a small button that disengages the motor gear (some newer models may not have this)(you may have to hold it in). Open the film door and with clean hands, use your index fingers and thumbs carefully on the tracks only and pull evenly. You may feel some resistance from the motor and hear the motor but if it won't budge check again if the bottom of the camera has a film release. As you do this feel for torn areas in the track which may indicate a motor malfunction or improperly loaded film. Now just wind the film back into the canister unless the track is torn. You may want to leave the leader out, and you should probably have the film developed right away for a list of reasons. If the track is torn, cut it off at the canister and touching only the edges roll it up and put it inside the plastic film container. Mark it "open film", or Open only in darkroom etc. and mention it to your developer. Alternately you can just hand over your camera to your developer who will do all of this for you...
Posted on Sep 14, 2007
SOURCE: film advance lever stuck
This sounds like shutter release problem and can be fixed by replacing a 3v 220 mf capacitor ( leaking by now because they do not last more than 8-10 years and your camera is 25 years old ). You can do it your -self but will need a soldering iron and a replacement capacitor : remove bottom cover and locate small ( usually black in colour ) capacitor on the right hand side of the camera. Unsolder -- keeping an eye on polarity which is marked on the outside of the capacitor-- and replace with new one. Switch camera on and it should release the shutter and you are back in the saddle.
Posted on Nov 14, 2007
SOURCE: my camera wont work right
did you mean the shutter wouldn't open and close?
if yes, this is common to most cameras idled for years. the shutter curtain or leaves stuck, or the electronic unit that powers the shutter mulfunction.
eBay sellers are not always honest. return it if you are lucky or file a complaint. let me tell you about my experience there. i bought a used Yashica, but when it arrived, some parts went wrong enenthough i specifically asked, the condition was not as stated, and lens cap seen on pic was not included. the seller was a kind of rude manner, he just refused to admit though eBay suspended him from trading.
Posted on Jan 26, 2008
SOURCE: no shutter/film advance
Check and see if the mirror is not moving.
The mirror not moving is not the reason your SRT is not working. Mirror flip-up and release is one step of the shutter release sequence that all single len reflex cameras do: the mirror not moving is a symptom that the shutter release sequence was not fully engaged, or is "out-of-sequence".
This problem does happen to older SRT's and is, best case, easy to fix. Two ways this happens: best case, either the advance lever was not fully wound (at the "second to last shot") and by depressing the shutter release button at the shots afterwards you're allowing the camera to bypass starting this sequence: a shop can "trip" your camera to its proper sequencing, but it may happen again because of the second problem described next.
As second-best case, on SRT's the pull-rod in the bottom of the camera (inside the bottom plate) that connects the advance drum Y-lever to its cocking lever becomes "stretched" at the end curl: this is a common weak-link in SRT's. Again, this is a 10 minute fix for a shop (don't do this yourself) to retension this rod and resequence your camera to working order.
Alternatively as a worst case, the mirror lock & release levers or more bottom shutter release mechanisms have become bent, undone or disconnnected. Since this is harder (near impossible in fact) to have this happen by just working the camera, hopefully your problem is not this. Your SRT would be still repairable, but at greater cost.
Call around to find a shop in your area that works and knows what they're doing on OLDER MANUAL Minoltas, then check the value of your SRT in your area and have that shop fix your camera at a cost within its value. Once fixed your SRT is still well within its service life: on SRT's usually only the meter-to-prism glue clouding, cable derailments, internal foam pieces gelling, and that pull-rod give trouble (and all these are still fixable).
Also a simple trick to try to resequence an SRT shutter yourself. If when your shutter release button comes back up (after you wind the camera when pushing down the release button), it seems lower than normal then try pushing in the rewind release button (in its U-depression on the bottom of the camera) and try winding the top advance lever (don't force anything, if this is going to work it should be all free moving). If the shutter release button pops up, the camera should be resequenced. It may take a couple of tries.
If it is not the mirror, then it may be the reason below.
The X-700's have a fairly common issue as they age. There is a capacitor inside, which simply gives out and must be replaced in order for the camera to function. If I remember correctly, it is directly related to the shutter release function.
The replacement capacitor is cheap and the repair can be performed by any reputable camera shop that knows Minoltas. There are even instructions on the web on how to do it yourself. My 700 gave up the ghost too, but I just haven't had the confidence to attempt the repair. I came into another functioning 700, so the repair isn't vital right now.
Please let me know what you want to do and what you find if you check your mirror. I would be glad to further assist you.
Thank you for using Fixya and Good Luck
Posted on Apr 22, 2008
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