a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Yes, I just got a new 3.5 model today and had the same problem. There is a black plastic attachment on the back of the device that covers up the screw to the battery compartment. You can slide it off the device by depressing a little tab at the top of this attachment between the two sliding tracks that mount the attachment to the device. Once you remove the attachment, you can access the battery door screw either with a screwdriver or by hand (using the semicircular wire mounted on the screw). Hope that solves it! -- Paul in Boston
The first thing you always do is disconnect the negative battery cable. Now locate the ECM or computer. It should be right beside the accelerator pedal on that model. There is usually an access panel there that covers it unless soneone has removed it and discarded it. there is one plastic screw holding the panel on but it also hooks on the right side as well. remove the EMC mounting screws and pull the unit out. Now remove the multi wired plug from the rear of the ECM and install your new ECM. Reinstall into the mounting and replace the cover. Reconnect the negative battery cable. now the car should start and run normally if there are no other problems. Thank you for asking at Fixya.com
If so equipped, unfasten the inside hood release handle.
Remove the steering wheel and the lower steering column cover.
Remove the glove box, switch panel and console.
Fig. 1: Loosen the retaining nut to unfasten the inside hood release handle
Fig. 2: If necessary, remove the dash mounted speaker covers to access hidden instrument panel bolts
Fig. 3: Due to space limitations, some bolts are best removed with an open end or box wrench
Fig. 4: Other bolts are easily removed with a socket
Remove the meter (gauge) hood, heater control panel mounting screws and separate the heater controls from the instrument panel frame. Remove the combination meter.
Remove the air duct(s) and the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Allow the column to lower.
Disconnect and label the meter wiring. Unfasten the mounting bolts and remove the crash pad and instrument panel.
Fig. 5: Some of the instrument panel attaching bolts are hidden behind removable trim covers or plugs. Carefully pry off the cover . . .
Fig. 6: . . . then remove the bolts with a socket
Fig. 7: The glove box must be removed to unfasten some of the instrument panel retaining bolts
Fig. 8: Other retaining bolts are accessible with the meter hood and combination meter removed
Position and fasten the crash pad and instrument panel, being careful to route the wiring correctly. Attach the meter wiring to its appropriate connections.
Raise the steering column to its normal operating position and install the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Connect the air ducts.
Install the combination meter. Install the heater controls into the instrument panel frame with the mounting screws. Attach the meter hood.
Install the console, switch panel and glove box.
Install the steering wheel column cover and steering wheel.
If applicable, attach the inside hood release handle.
i just purchased a new cover for $33 from uscamera. part#omp vg4293. You will need a jewlers philips screw driver. Make sure you lay out screws where they came out. They're different. Looking at the bottom,Remove 1 screw under battery door. Two screws on bottom my mount. Open little door on left for mem card and remove 2 screws. Open little door on right side where cable goes, remove 2 screws. Then gently on end wher door goes, pull back cover back just enough to remove old door and reinstall new door. Press back together and install screws.
Not a bad job to replace the cam position sensor, it took about two hours cost about $150.00 with oem parts. First remove air filter box,remove plastic spark plug cover. Jack up engine about an inch remove engine mount. Now you can access sensor through a convenient cover that mounts around engine mount bracket extending from engine block.( one ten millimeter bolt) Remove accessory drive belt for a little extra room and replace with new one while you are in there. Just between the two cam gears you will see a torx screw that aligns the switch when in installed. DO NOT REMOVE THIS Just above the torx screw is a reverse torx screw (6 millimeter) Put a shop rag in the access hole to catch the screw just in case you drop it ,( so it does not fall into timing belt cover) Put something "sticky" in the 6 millimeter socket such as gasket sealer to keep from losing screw. remove. Pull switch up from inside spark plug cover and install new one through the same. reinstall 6 millimeter bolt. Switch is self aligning. Reinstall belt, engine mount, air box. Doing this myself probably saved me about $150.00 to $200.00 dollars