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Do you mean physically broken or
It just doesn't turn the tv on?
There are separate answers for each.
1:To fix a physically broken switch you could simply open the TV up and attach 2 wires to where the switch contacts are soldered to the PCB.
Run the wires to a new switch. Probably a NO (Normally Open) type. A Round switch could be mounted easily with a drill hole through an unused area of the case. Pressing a NO switch closes the contacts momentarily to trigger the digital turn On.
2:You could remove the old switch & attempt to get an actual replacement or a similar mountable switch from a components supplier.
3:If the switch is actually physically OK and the internal contacts are working (test with multimeter) then the problem is with the digital switch mode power supply that supplies power to the main circuits.
This would probably be caused by leaky Electrolytic Capacitors on the power supply PCB.
In that case, if your up to using a soldering iron and locating the Cap's then this would be an inexpensive way to fix the TV.
The fuse controls the power to the brake light switch. If no power to switch, suspect broken/corroded wiring. Not a very common problem to have broken/corroded wiring to brake light switch. Are you sure there is no power to the switch? Does the vehicle have cruise control? Are you sure you are testing the right switch? There will be 2 switches if there is cruise control on most vehicles
check all ground wires especially going from frame to body, making sure there is no rust there. check for power going to fuse ( both sides ) if there is no power to fuse, check headlight switch ,if no power there, check power at all fusible links. If you have power to the switch and not to the fuse check for a broken wire from there to switch , if none broken replace headlight switch.
most of the time driver side windows switch be the first switch to wear out.try removing window switch work switch while moving the wires see if window try to go up, if yes, window switch broken.if switch not broken check see if power going to window motor when you work the switch you need a test light or digital volt meter to check to see if power going to power window motor.if power going to power window motor, either window binding or power window motor faulty. make sure driver side window master switch not locked out.if no make sure all the other power windows work if not you have blowed fuse.
Let's figure this out. Broken or otherwise disconnected wires usually cause an open circuit preventing adequate current to a componant. Two wire switches act as light switches do. they either close or open a circuit.In this case, the warning lamp or fan relay is ativated when the temp rises. Cold, the circuit is open/ broken preventing any controlled componant from activating.
First check for any power/voltageat the disconnected wire and the connected wire. Which ever wire that is powered is the supply wire. The one without is your controlled componant wire. Touch the two wires together, bypassing the switch. The fan should come on and turn off when disconnected again. Ignition switch needs to be on.Because of the load the fan pulls, a relay is between the fan and switch.
The switch closes powering the relay, then relay close contacts closing a secondary circuit which in turn permits power to the fan. The fan circuit is powered by the battery and controlled only by the relay.
Yuup, two circuits. Switching and fan drive circuits. Yes, Hook the wire back onto the switch after testing as outlined here. Good Luck and remember to always verify power (fusec ondition). _Ned_
The problem will either be a faulty master window switch on the driver door, or a broken wire at the master window switch, or most likely the problem will be a broken wire inside of the weather boot that runs between the door and the body of the vehicle, and most likely it will be inside of the weather boot for the driver side door. If there is power going through the master window switch then look for a broken wire.
Here are two typical GM power window wiring diagrams to help assist you, and let me know if you require any further assistance.
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a
tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for
power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in. Sometimes
the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the
case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or
2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the
door switch if found defective.
Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a
dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door
switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and
the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.
Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch
assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there
is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and
just the lever. Check your model for more details.
You have to use a voltmeter and make sure the motor is getting power. If no power at the motor, check for power at the switch, first make sure power is coming into switch, and then operate the switch and make sure power is going out to the motor.
Make sure you have a good ground on the door.
Could have a broken wire between switch and door, or between fuse block and switch. A wire can be broken on the inside without the insulation being broken
The best solution is to "jump" or bypass the power switch and use an extension cord with a switch. The power switches have been unavailable as far as I know for over 10 years. If that's the only problem, it's totally worth it - the STA2100D is an awesome unit still today.