Question about Kitchen Ranges
Clock and display work. all buttons seem to work. clicks and makes noise as normal but does not heat up. how do I check for codes on this model?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: baking element not working
If you have already replaced the bake element (which would have been MY first logical choice) and it still does not work, the problem is more likely with the Electronic Clock Control. The control has two separate circuits that will select and turn on either the bake of the broil elements. It is usually a defective relay that causes the particular mode of choice to stop working. The part number for the ECC is 1166040 and costs about $128. It's not a cheap fix, but it would cost you much more if you had a service man fix it for you. Unless...of course, you still have a warranty. Most manufacturers cover all parts from defects for the 1st year. Some parts are covered longer than the initial warranty, however. It may be worth you while to double check your purchase date and appliance paperwork. This repair is not difficult and can be accomplished by the average do-it-yourselfer. If you decide you want to repair the appliance on your own, let me know and I can give you step-by-step instructions on how to do it.
PS Double check the wiring from the ECC to the bake element as well. You could have a broken wire causing the same symptoms too. Also, don't be alarmed by the failure of the ECC. Although they are generally reliable for quite a number of years, they have been known to fail during electrical storms and/or power surges. Something else you may consider: check your home owner's insurance policy to see if it covers the loss of appliances in the event of such incidents. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jan 24, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
My first suggestion is to remove the broil and the bake elements from the oven (unplug it or shut off the breaker) and test them with a meter on the OHM setting and see if you have continuity. You can't always tell if they are blown just by looking at them. Secondly, if they both check out alright, I would be looking at the ERC - electronic clock - you have a burnt relay in which case you will need a new one. Depending on where you are you may be able to find a place where it can be rebuilt for about 1/2 the cost of a new one. Hope this helps you.
Posted on Jan 26, 2010
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