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Cleaning bella rotating belgian waffle maker - Kitchen Appliances - Others

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Waring WMK300 professional Belgian waffle maker

Your thermal cut-out went bad, needs to be replaced.

Posted on Mar 18, 2008

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jerryg50
  • 1667 Answers

SOURCE: Belgian waffle maker flashed

These appliances are not easy to work on, and they take much more than simple tools. There are many safety issues with these. These can be dangerous to operate if they are not serviced properly.

For a start, most likely the element is shorted out. This would mean a new element, a new thermo fuse, and possibly the thermostat may be damaged. This has to be properly checked.

As for doing wiring in these appliances, depending on the design, there are crip connectors, and some of the parts are electro welded (not soldered).

Personaly, I would start shopping for a new unit when considering the cost of service on these. If you are determined to service the unit you can take it to an appliance specialist.

Jerry G.

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Belgian Waffle Maker Problem

Here is what is happening, and if you're out of warranty and so inclined how to easily fix it yourself.

Make sure you are unplugged from the wall before doing anything or you will get shocked. You do not need to take the bottom cover off the base. You do not need to take the top plate apart (they super glued one screw in the top plate (lid), you'll strip out the screw head trying to remove it anyhow). All you need to open is the bottom plate, it has 4 screws in it you will see when you open the lid, these screws are not super glued and will come out. 2 on each side in the back, 2 in the center of the front, long screws go in the back, short in the front.

There are 2 white wires, 1 black wire, 1 green wire that run up the neck of the waffle maker to heat the top and bottom heating elements. The 2 white wires are neutral, the green wire is a ground, the black wire is power.

This black wire runs from the electronic control board in the base of the unit, up the neck in the rear, through a thermal fuse, to the bottom element then jumps up to the top element. All you need to take apart is the bottom plate, the part you pour the batter into. It has 4 screws you will see when you open the top plate up, take those out and you are going to find the black wire is covered by a white rubber like tube about 3 inches long. In the center of this rubber insulation there is a metal clip with a single screw. Take that screw out, pull off the metal clip and slide (don't cut) the rubber like insulation back.

You will find the black wire is crimped onto a silver metal bullet looking component. This component is called a "thermal fuse", its designed to fail at 240 degrees C. Its obviously a design flaw and the thermal fuse is under rated for the actual heat within the device. Its also a one shot fuse, so when it blows it kills power on the black wire from going to the top and bottom plates, thus no heat. It is not resettable.

I didn't even cut mine out (Waring is very skimpy with their wire, they don't leave you even a hint of extra wire to work with). I just tightly twisted the bare metal wire on each side of this component like a bread tie leaving the blown fuse in place. Then be sure to slide the rubber like insulation back over all of the bare metal so it is covering the black wire on both sides. If you don't it will short out and blow your house circuit breaker when you turn it on.

This thermal fuse was probably a requirement of the UL Listing. Its over kill, everything in there is metal so if it over heats in that area there is nothing flammable to burn. If a run away temperature occurs the wire itself will melt, short out and trip your house breaker. There are stacks of these units brand new with this same problem anyone reading this is having, the thermal fuse is under rated, the fix is simple.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Waffle maker won't heat

There is a thermal fuse inside the bottom half of the unit, enclosed in a white insulating sleeve. A replacement can be found on Amazon.com at the following URL:
http://www.amazon.com/Thermodisc-Degrees-Celsius-Thermal-Fuse/dp/B000T9VEV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2M3QCVRS1C1IV&colid=2LRN9SBBQ2MW7

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

Testimonial: "This information was extremely helpful! All the Waring people would tell me was that it was not fixable. Thank you very much!"

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Betty Crocker belgian waffle baker and I

2 eggs, 2 cups all purpose flour, 1/2 cup vegetable oil or 1/2 cup ( 1 stick) margarine or butter melted, 1 3/4 cups milk, 1 T. granulated or brown sugar, 4 tea. baking powder, 1/4 tea salt.
Heat waffle baker. Beat eggs with wire whisk or hand beater in medium bowl until fluffy. Beat in remaining ingredients just until smooth. Pour about 2/3 cup batter onto center of hot waffle baker. Bake about 5 minuted or until READY light goes off. Remove waffle carefully. About 3 1/2 cups batter.

Makes 10 4-inch Belgian waffle squares.

Posted on Jan 24, 2010

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