Question about Kitchen Ranges

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Hello. My name is Jeff. I rent an apartment with a GE P7 Oven/Range Model Number JB500 W5. We lifted the burner elements to clean under them one day and when we went to use it afterward. There was a large arc when we turned on the front right burner. Upon further investigation, it was found that one of the wires connected to one of the elements on that burner had come free from the crimped connection and had shorted to the chassis. I have also found that the ground wire for the burner is missing about 6-8" of insulation and is bare wire. After I removed power, I re crimped the connection and tried to use the stove, but with no luck. Nothing works on the appliance at all. I also wonder if it is a huge problem that the ground wire is missing that insulation. I have removed the back panels to do a visual inspection, but nothing has been obvious to me. I have some electrical knowledge, but when it comes to vintage range/ovens, I am left in the dark. Any suggestions as to where I could start the trouble shooting process? Thanks

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  • chalnger86 Jun 20, 2009

    Thanks for the reply.  I'm not sure why I didn't receive it in my email account, though.  At any rate, I have not located a fuse in the appliance either.  I have checked the circuit and I do have 225AC at the plug.  I have continuity through the pigtail  and I can observe no burnt wires in the back of the stove or under the drip pans.  It is a rather perplexing issue since there really aren't many parts in the range to go bad.


    Jeff

  • chalnger86 Jun 20, 2009

    I also just took a look at the manual you were able to dig up for me.  The manual definitely has the beginning letters to my model, but my model is most definitely a lot older than the manual suggests.  My best guess is vintage 1960ish.  Everything is completely analog which would lead me to believe that this would be a relatively easy fix!  I'm going to try to do some continuity checks on the wires from the burner elements to the controls in the rear of the range.


    Jeff

  • chalnger86 Jun 20, 2009

    I have checked continuity from the main breakout in the back to the controls and from the controls to the burners.  I have continuity  in all those places.  The problem, I think, is not specifically with the burner controls since nothing on the stove works at all.  The oven will not come on, the clock will not work and the light in the oven won't even come on.  I'm baffled and amazed.  It is difficult to follow the wiring in t back since everything is hand wired and there's a million of them.  How do I check the controls?  I believe they are simply rheostats that adjust the resistance to the burners to control the temp of the burner.  Would I do a resistance check between each hot terminal to the common connection?  

  • chalnger86 Jun 20, 2009

    The voltage goes from the pigtail to a terminal breakout where it then goes off to different places.  from there both legs go directly to the controls for the burners (the one that had the initial issue is a selectable three element burner with a selector knob in between the control and the burner which I checked out to be OK) to the burner and back to the control, through an indicator light and then back to the neutral terminal.  Checking voltages while the oven is plugged in would be difficult since the pigtail is not long enough to pull the stove out far enough from the wall to check safely.  (i.e. there are cabinets on either side of the stove)

  • chalnger86 Jun 20, 2009

    Ok.  Major revelations have been made.  First revelation is that the breaker was tripped due to another short with that same burner.  When I applied power (finally) to the range and turned the burner on, it arced again.  Could that bare wire be the cause of the arc?  It is the common lead from the burner back to the control.  My guess is that wire needs to be replaced to stop that ground fault from happening again.  Thoughts?

  • chalnger86 Jun 20, 2009

    Yes.  I will be heading off to the appliance store for some wire and some connectors.  I'll be replacing all the wires for that burner.  The stove is so old, that the connection point at the burner is actually a ring and screw crimped connector  for each wire.  I wish it was so simple as to just plugging and unplugging the burner.  I understand completely  what happened now.  I can't believe I really didn't get this before.  I ignored my own motto K.I.S.S.  Most people laugh, but it will help you 9/10 times.  I'll update once I get the wires replaced.  I have to leave town this weekend in a few hours, so I'll have to do it Monday morning.  Till then, thanks for the guidance.


    Jeff

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Hi Jeff,

as you probably already know the arching was caused by discharge between the bare wire and the grounded chassis.

To fix the problem replace the wiring harness to surface elements.

You can find all replacements for your range here.

Regards.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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  • 334 Answers

I wouldn't worry about the ground wire, it may have been the path the short took to ground or it's just old. Hopefully your problem is just a fuse. I'm sure you checked your circuit breaker. If you have some electrical knowledge, can you use a multimeter on a live circuit?

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

  • 5 more comments 
  • seth veloso Jun 19, 2009

    still looking for a wire diagram but did find the manual if you want it

    http://genet.geappliances.com/DocSearch/...

    I'll continue looking to see if there is a fuse inside but I may need you to eplain waht you see on this one
    seth


  • seth veloso Jun 19, 2009

    Don't believe there are any fuses inside, its either your circuit breaker or maybe the same wire you found burned, is burned at the other end where it ties into the main power supply terminal strip.

  • seth veloso Jun 20, 2009

    OK, TRY CHECKING CONTINUITY FROM THE PIGTAIL TO THE BURNER AS LONG AS YOU DON'T HAVE DIGITAL CONTROLS. THEN CHECK FROM THE PIGTAIL UP TO YOUR CONTROLS

  • seth veloso Jun 20, 2009

    I'M THINKING MAYBE YOU BLEW OR BURNED SOMETHING IN THE CONTROL PANEL

  • seth veloso Jun 20, 2009

    Ok, what you need to do is find where the voltage comes from the plug up to the control panel. That may be the path that is lost or right there where the power is tying into the panel.

  • seth veloso Jun 20, 2009

    that selector knob can't be getting voltage through it or to it. Is there any way you can fasten the leads of your meter to the terminal and then push the stove back in to apply power to it?

  • seth veloso Jun 20, 2009

    oooo yes, I'm sorry I thought you replace the burned wire. Do not leave any wires exposed, and the burner that you cleaned, check down inside where the burner plugs in and make sure it is clean. Try that then let me know, keep an eye on that breaker lol.

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