Question about Refrigerators
F20 fault code appears intermittently Removed firewall plate and no sign of " icing " Fan between freezer and refrig section appears to be working fine Possible problem ? 1- whatever activates defrost cycle is not working 2- whatever measures the need to initiate defrost cycle is faulty
Malcolm, if you are indeed getting an F20 fault, this is a problem with the flapper heater. The flapper heater current is low.
First, Check the JST in-line connections for the flapper heater.
Second, Check the resistance of the heater. If open circuit, replace the heater.
Posted on Apr 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Auto defrost not working
a manual defrost will help in the sense that it will healp save your food now if you dont mind spending a little cash may i suggest you go buy a eurika 350 hand held steamer its great for defrosting and about 1000 other thuings around your house you canget it at lowes places like that after defrosting the unit will freeze again in about two to three days depending on how many times you open your door reply to this thered with the appox age of your unit and i can better advise from there some times as in the case of a stuck theroma stat if seen it fix them but i wouldnt count on it hold my rating tii we are done
Posted on Jan 19, 2008
your freezer drain is either frozen or clogged,remove stuff from bottom of freezer and you should be able to see the drainhole..if frozen use a hair dryer to melt,then to make sure it 's not clogged use a wire hanger to clear it out and you should be ok,let me know-mike
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
SOURCE: Viking freezer leaking
you have a clogged drain, it is either clogged with ice or some kind of debris, thaw the freezer out and push a length of weed trimmer line down the drain. The drain is accessible by removing the back wall of the inside of the freezer. If there is no clog then the drain may be freezing up, if that is the case, take a piece of 14 gauge romex wire and loop it several times around the heating element at the bottom of the evaporator and push a few inches of it into the drain, this will get hot and transfer heat when it goes into a defrost cycle which is where the water is coming from in the first place
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel Freezer
Very possible the door was accidently left open for a period of time. When that happens, moisture latches on to different areas which inturn creates ice build up. In short, do a good defrost and then restart freezer again.
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you. Freezer defrosted and working again!"
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
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