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pull wheel remove grease cap undo carter key remove nut pull off rest of hub take bearings frt and rear out of hub clean old grease from bearings check bearing for defect install in revers order remender to install new grease in new bearings lots of grease and u will need new seals for same front and rear
Daren Ingold's suggestion works only for the right rear wheel on my 19+ year old MTD Yardman 21" self propelled mower. The ratchet spur on rear left wheel is held on by a bolt in the center of the axle and a spline. Remove the center bolt and washer. Pry the ratchet spur off the spline by using three medium blade screwdrivers wedged between the wheel and the spur gently tapping the three screwdrivers in succession until the spur is half off the spline. It will come off easily after that. Remove the spur, noting direction, and remove the wheel and replace it with one of the front wheels (they're all the same design) if it is in better condition and use the rear wheel for the front. Good luck ever finding a new replacement for this particular wheel. My mower is 19+ years old but runs perfectly otherwise. Stored in dry basement.
remove this items in this order(rear disc):
-remove rear wheel(the side you are replace)(19mm socket)
-remove brake caliper with cailper bracket(14mm socket) -remove brake disc -remove metal cover hub/bearing assembly with flathead screwdriver -remove 36mm nut behind metal cover. -pull hub/bearing assembly out. note:sometime the inner side of bearing stay on knuckle and you have to pry it out pry bar. check old bearing vs new bearing and you'll see the different. Don't reuse any parts of the old bearing. -install new hub/bearing
Forget new guide wheels. A new rear derailer is the real fix. You will need to order a new one by the number of gears on the rear gear cluster. How the derailer is mounted, Which way it moves when by the spring direction etc... By the way, get a higher quality one than the one you have got. If you go megawheel on the lower guide wheel; which I recommend, you might need a couple more segments in your chain. Yes, you need a new chain. If you wore out a part on you derailer, your chain is getting old. I recently bought a new rear derailure for my wife's bike for 29 bucks at a much better quality than the old one. It does not have problems of getting between gears, clicking etc... like the old one did new.
pick up new wheel studs. using a punch hammer out the old broken off studs. push in the new studs from the back side grease the threads put your lug nut on backwards and tighten up this will pull the stud into place. as long as your wheel isnt damaged or new wheel . use a torque wrench and torque the lug nuts drive a mile or so and torque again and then after 50 miles.
I have a Sharp 56dr650. The color wheel bearing failed. Sharp cares not for its customers and won't even respond to my pleads for help in obtaining the replacement. So, with that said, I went to ebay and bought a vizio color wheel (Omega TV in Hollywood, FL). Color wheel is incorrect and colors are all blue as is, so I pulled the color wheel off and did the same from the old one-BIG note, the wheels are glass and fragile, DO NOT BREAK the old color wheel! I viced the old bearing and carefully worked the shaft out of the bearing (it is snapped into the bearing). The vice distorted the old bearing but it was trash anyway. The new bearing, I broke the new color wheel off and viced the shaft. I then pulled the old bearing from the wheel. I then carefully push the old shaft and color wheel into the new bearing (you will know when it snaps in place) asserting preasure ONLY on the metal center hub with my thumb. I had to file a new slot on the cast housing as the ribbon connector is about 1/2 inch shorter on the new bearing. I installed and it all works great!!! Saved from tossing a $2,000 plus tv out! SHAME ON SHARP! Never buy another Sharp product!