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It could be a ground problem. See if you can trace the ground wire from the bulb socket. If you can identify which connector of the bulb socket is the ground, you can do a continuity test from the socket to the frame or body, using a multi meter. You can also use the multi meter to check for voltage at the socket; positive lead of meter to positive connector of socket and negative lead of meter (black) to a ground. If you get voltage ( about 12 V ) then the problem is a broken ground wire.
You should have just two wires plus a ground hooked up to the dimmer. It should install just like the maestro. If you are getting no lights with a double tap, or tap and hold, and if the led is not on, it is one of several things. Most are basic, but will list anyway. Check that your connections are good. Make sure you have power there. Make sure the bulbs are good. If all is fine, you probably have a defective dimmer if it worked prior to this. To test, take the dimmer out, restore power, and carefully touch one insulated wire to the other one. If the light comes on, it is the dimmer at fault.
Use a volt meter or a test light to test voltage. Connect negative lead of meter of test light to ground and connect the positive lead to the center of cig socket. I no voltage is detected at cig socket trace wire to fuse panel and connect postive lead of test light or volt meter to positive side wiring at fuse panel.
Whoa...You definitely may have a fire and/or shock hazard hanging from your ceiling. I've seen a lot of fixtures with old, brittle wire and bad insulation in them. Lamp wiring is subjected to a lot of heat, especially with higher-wattage fixtures. Long term exposure to heat near or above the insulation's rating is especially damaging to electrical insulation. I've also seen cases where metal parts of the bulb socket partially melted and/or broke loose.
If you're comfortable and confident of your abilities to make a safe electrical connection, you can replace the wire and bulb sockets in your fixture. If it's valuable or an attractive antique, it's worth fixing or having fixed, even if you sell it. Just make sure you use wire with insulation rated for use in an electrical fixture. It must be rated for a temperature no less than 105 degrees Celsius.
It it's a lower cost fixture, replace it or have it replaced. Regardless of what you do, you're probably going to be replacing that dimmer again...sorry.
If you live in an older home, it may be worth (in terms of safety) having a few qualified electricians evaluate your electrical system as a whole to make sure everything is still in safe condition.
check the socket whare the bulb goes for rust corosion. you can also test the socket by removing bulb and using a 12 volt test light. remove bulb and connect test light leads to the socket while the signal is on.connect one lead from test light to inner wall of socket and the other one to the terminals in bottom of socket
If the previous light worked ok and you didn't touch the wall switch, you must have a faulty connection at the chandelier end, check the connections again. Is there a seperate switch on the chandelier?
Pull the light bulbs and test the bulb sockets, use a 12 volt test light probe, kinda looks like an ice pick or awl, with the clip lead of the test light at a good ground, probe the contacts to the bulb with the lights on, if the test light glows then there is 12 volts to the socket, if not probe the wire to the socket for power, if it is ok then replace the bulb socket, the dealer can supply this part. 1st though make sure the bulb is good, swap out a working bulb to the non working side,
A light bulb is not a terribly complicated thing. I think you're saying that the bulbs are OK, but they do not seem to function in some of the chandelier sockets. Is that correct?
Assuming the bulbs are not burned out, the only reason this would occur is if they are not making good electrical contact with the socket. The bulb makes contact in two places, on is the threaded base and the other is the metal contact on the base of the bulb. My guess would be they are not threading in quite right and then you're not able to screw them all the way in so the base makes electrical contact.
Before you rate this solution I hope you'll take into account that I'm not paid to do this, I'm just trying to help. I have no idea what you're reaction will be, but I'm really getting tired of getting poor ratings for trying to help...especially when I seem to be the only one who responds on a question.