Question about Bernina Artista 180

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How to clean ribbon cable

Might need cleaned

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2 Answers

Brother cs-80 winding bobbin makes whirring noise and doesn't wind


Replacing the bobbin winder rubber ring.
  • The case halves are held together by 5 larger screws, one under the carry handle, obvious from the holes in the casing, plus one smaller screw up by the foot-raising lever.
  • There is also the final screw, which is a devil to find. (see 3rd image)You have to remove the plastic tray to which the spool carrier is attached, up by the spool winder. You do not need to remover the spool winder stop but the small screw on the left, in the bottom of the tray-shape.
Next, WITH CARE , lever round the tray with a thin blade and use a small screwdriver to ease it out of the case; there are 2 bits that stick out more than the rest.
  • Once this tray is out you can see a small bar with a screw. (see 2nd image)Remove this screw and the 2 halves of the case will separate.
TAKE CARE NOT TO DROP THE SCREW INTO THE WORKS!. A piece of sticky-tack on the end of the screwdriver helps here if the screwdriver is not magnetized.
  • Now you can carefully ease the ribbon-strip cable from the circuit board and move the case round to be able to access the screws that hold the circuit board. You do not need to pull out the other cables; just take a tad of care as you work.
The bobbin winder mechanism is held in by 1 screw - take this out and you can then easily replace the rubber drive ring -(which you have providently ordered)
  • Take the opportunity to clear out any fluff and dust while you have the cases apart. Put ONE drop of oil in the center of the bobbin carrier rotating mechanism and one drop on any moving joints.
  • Replace the components/ ribbon cable in the reverse order, taking care not to drop the small screw! It is necessary to carefully line-up the hole into which it fits. It is surprising how easily the tray clips back into place, compared with the hassle you had getting it out.
I took both my CS 8080 apart last week to replace the drive rubber. It took nearly 1.5 hours along with the cleaning and lubing.
I am sorry the 3rd image is so small. It shows the screw to remove to access the arrowed screw in the second image

brother-cs-80-winding-bobbin-makes-qa0ugypaytbcwitrzme1v3l4-3-0.jpg

brother-cs-80-winding-bobbin-makes-qa0ugypaytbcwitrzme1v3l4-3-1.png

brother-cs-80-winding-bobbin-makes-qa0ugypaytbcwitrzme1v3l4-3-3.jpg

Feb 09, 2014 | Brother Sewing Machines

3 Answers

Too many threads coming up from the bobbin


try rethread the machine top & bobbin
change the needle
clean under the needle plate & in the bobbin area for lint & loose
threads

Aug 04, 2012 | Brother LS-2125 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

My Bernina machine is 40 years old - a 707 minimatic but it is in perfect condition, regularly de-fluffed and oiled and had a new motor 4 years ago. A recent problem is with the tension. If I get the top...


You could try puchasing a replacement bobbin case, its possible that the tension spring on it has worn/stretched a bit. Try this website if you are in the USA - http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/bernina-707-sewing-machine-parts.aspx or just go to the bernina website and choose your country to find the head office in your country. They should be able to sell you the part or direct you to a local dealer closer to you.

Also clean out the top tension device if you haven't already. Turn to zero and floss between the discs. I use a clean selvage edge of a waste piece of cotton fabric or you could use dental floss or ribbon too, just something to get in there and remove any buildup. Thread, especailly darker colours, will shed dye particles and fibres and over time this can build up in the tension discs impairing their function.

Otherwise, sounds like you've had a really great run with your Bernina - if you don't already do this, then consider taking it for a service every two years too as the internals benefit from a lube on the older mechanical machines. It may be that the top tension device needs replacing to resolve your issue.

Jul 12, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Brother PC-3000 that the has three keys that are not working. Unfortunetly they are the 0, 1 and 2 which are the most used. Can this be fixed?


We have a PC-3000 in which the 0/1/2/reset keys don't work as well. The panel is a membrane switch that I found on a parts site (sewingpartsonline dot com) for $119 plus shipping.

I have not done so but if you know someone who can disassemble the machine, remove the ribbon cable from its connection, and clean it (not the membrane rather the ribbon cable connector) you *might* solve the problem. Because our machine is very lightly used, I doubt that the membrane is failing as they seldom wear out.

If taken to a repair shop, I would guess the unit is beyond repair because it would be an easy 2 hours to repair (figure $75/hr or $150 plus the part for at least $375) which is half the price of a new machine.

Dec 13, 2010 | Brother PC-6000 Pacesetter

1 Answer

Toro 22'' recycler self propelled, pull start- works first time every time after priming. Electric start, starter spins fast enough to start- but will not start... WHat gives? Connections are there- good...


if you can turn it over easy its not the brake [but] when you pull the handle back, where the cable hooks up try pulling the braket back a little maybe the cable is wore do this with the handle puuled back[also if you have a armeture\coil/ clean it where it meats the flywheel and clean the magnet on the flywheel also check to see if the flywheel key is sheared if it has any groove at all and not smooth replace it]. thank you.

Dec 21, 2009 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

I have a Bernina Artista 730. Very few inches of


I know this is a long-overdue response, but maybe it will help someone else. I had the same problem, and it turned out that the cause was that my bobbins had oxidized. Rubbing them with a bit of steel wool or fine-grain sandpaper did the trick, and I was up and running again.

Oct 07, 2009 | Bernina Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Needle catching / getting stuck


You probably just need to clean the bobbin case and the foot area of lint and debris. Other things to check: is your bobbin loaded correctly? is your needle in correctly? is the thread loaded correctly. I've found these to be the cause of most problems I've had in 30 years of sewing.

Aug 29, 2009 | Kenmore Drop-In Bobbin 16231 Mechanical...

2 Answers

Pfaff 1471 presser foot does not go down


This procedure is SPECIFIC TO THE PFAFF 7570. It MAY work for you. Try at your own risk.
Needed tools:
Small flat screw driver.
Large Phillips screw driver
Small torx screw driver
Large torx screw driver
Small cleaning brush
Small scissors and long tweezers.
Machine oil.
Old tooth brush.
Dish detergent.
Lots of care and patience.
In this particular case, perseverance was the winner. I'm quite handy with mechanical things, so I had to partially disassemble the machine until I found the cause of the problem. The foot presser mechanism DOES have a spring, but it's concealed and out of sight. I never suspected it, but that was the case. When I found it, white grease that was put there at the factory to lubricate its movement had turned into a think sticky gunk. That was what was holding the foot presser in the up position. This gunk was so stubborn! I had to clean the spring, the housing and a plastic pin really well, and then oiled all the components inside their housing. More below.
The shaft of the foot presser is hollow at the top. This is designed to hold a 1-5/8" spring and a 5/8" black plastic pin that's inserted at the top of the spring and protrudes from the hollow shaft.
Start placing the 7570 on a table that has a height that's comfortable for you. You'll be standing and squatting a lot to accomplish the task.
Standing behind the machine, and looking down, there's a metallic plate on your right that holds the thread tension discs. This plate covers the shaft, found underneath, and holds together the mechanism with the round wheel with numbers that protrudes slightly on the side of the machine's body.
Several pieces had to be disassembled in order to get to this plate, although at this point I'm doubting whether or not so much work was necessary, since I was so excited upon the discovery that I forgot to notice whether I could have found the spring and remove it without having to disassemble so many pieces.
The metal plate is black and thick, and is held down with a heavy gauge black machine screw. The plastic pin makes contact with the underside of this plate, which compresses the spring when the foot presser lever is up. Once the lever is disengaged from its locked or resting position (in the case of the embroidery position), the compressed spring pushes the entire foot presser down, as it DID when I first bought the machine.
These are the disassembly steps, without diagrams, but use your imagination as best you can to picture my description.
1 - Top cover removal.
The top cover (the one with the different built-in patterns drawn on its inside face) is held in place by two thin black metal plates where it hinges. A little bit of pressure towards the outside on the top of one of the plates (on either side) will release the pivot pin on one end, and then a little jiggle in the same direction will release the other. Put the cover aside.
2 - Concave top cover removal.
This cover is the one that houses the thread spool in the horizontal position, if that is your choice when sewing. It is held down by two plated machine screws, one short and one long. After removing the screws a little jiggling will help removing it, pulling it mainly upwards. You may need to put the large handle up, to allow for more movement. Put it aside once removed.
3 - Side cover removal.
This covers the area where the foot presser is housed, on the left side of the machine, as you face the buttons on the front of the machine.
Standing behind the machine, once step 2 has been achieved, one can see from the top, looking down, a large black machine screw on your right hand side, just inside the cover. You don't need to remove it completely, just about 1/2 turn will loosen the pressure to release the cover. Pull the cover outwards and sideways and set aside. You may want to also remove the light bulb, to be able to get to the mechanism to clean it, to remove pieces of thread that may be lying around or caught in the different moving parts. Push the light bulb gently in while turning it counter clockwise. You'll feel it disengaging from its socket. Pull it out and set it aside. Clean it if necessary. Use the scissors and the tweezers to remove any lint and debris.
4 - Pressure discs plate removal.
I'm not 100% sure now that this can be done at this stage, but continue. If this particular plate cannot be removed, because other components get in the way, then skip to step #4A below and come back here later.
Standing behind the machine, looking down at the housing, you'll see another large black machine screw holding down a black metal plate. Remove it completely and put it aside. Next, remove the plate, gently nudging its way out of the different obstacles that may be present. One of them may be the sewing shaft mechanism. If this is the case, gently turn the wheel manually to cause the mechanism to move up or down, as to allow more room for the plate to be completely removed.
Make sure you lift this plate slowly, as to prevent the spring and plastic pin from spilling inside the machine's body. Put the plate aside. Now you see the black plastic pin, perhaps stuck inside the hollow part of the foot presser. If so, pry it loose gently and clean it with a sudsy solution, and use an old tooth brush to remove the gunk from its coils. Do likewise to the plastic pin.
While you have the housing exposed with lots of space, I would suggest you should remove any debris, dust, etc, and oil all the moving parts with sewing machine oil.
5 - Assembly.
This is done in the reverse order. Congratulations! You've done it!
Additional steps, if metal plate in step 4 above cannot be removed after step 3.
4A - Front plate removal (The one with the colored buttons and LCD display).
Standing behind the machine, looking down, you'll see a grey ribbon cable crossing the case from back to front, under the main shaft. Remove its connector by pulling it up gently. No force or tools are necessary. Bend the ribbon to one side and set it aside, out of the way.
Squatting a little from the same position, looking inside the foot presser housing, you'll see two small plated screws, close to the edge of the housing, one towards the top and another towards the bottom. Remove completely.
In the same squatting position, and moving your attention to the main machine housing, you'll see the green PCB board. It's held by at least three screws. One of them, on your extreme left, is not visible because it's concealed by a plastic insert at the top of the left end of the 7570. This insert is held down in place by a thin black metal plate. This plate has a tiny hole where the top cover of step 1 hinges.
Gently turn the small torx screw holding down this plate 1/2 turn counter clockwise to release the pressure. Once loosened, slide the plate slightly towards your right. This will allow you to pull the insert up.
With the insert out of the way, squatting again, you'll see the third plated screw on your left. Remove it.
Turn the machine upside down and ensure it's not rocking from side to side.
Use the large torx driver to remove the machine's base. This base contains a power supply box, and another green PCB board. It's connected to the rest of the machine with several ribbon cables of different colors. The base is attached by 4 machine screws. Loosen the screws completely and remove using the tweezers.
Raise the base from the right end, allowing its other end to rest on the edge of the inverted 7570 body and stand it at 90°. Inspect the location, orientation, and general layout of the cabling. You may need to unlatch one or more plastic holders for the ribbons, which hold them flat and organized. Remove these holders to have greater access to the connectors.
Jot down the order of the different ribbons and the way the are inserted into their sockets on the PCB found inside the base. Fortunately the connectors are of different sizes, and there should be no way to insert the wrong one in the wrong socket, but it's best to be safe. Jot down order, color, etc.
Gently pull on the different connectors from the PCB board. A little bit of force is all that is needed. Push them aside one by one in order to allow you to see more and create more space.
Next, disconnect the large power cord. You need to insert a small flat screw driver to release pressure on the sides of the socket. Do it one side at a time, and then gently pull it out. Set the base aside. You're almost done!
Next, looking down, pushing the ribbon cables away from you, you'll see two plated screws in each corner of the inverted 7570 housing, on the side closest to you. Remove completely. At this time you should be able to remove the face plate, gently threading the widest of the ribbon cables through the opening on your left, in order to put the base aside.
With the face plate out of its position, put the machine in its straight up position and step 4 above can be accomplished.
Now, I also did remove the 7570 main handle in order to create more space and see more in the reduced area of the foot presser housing. If you too find it necessary to do so, use the corner of the tip of a small flat screw driver to pry the lock ring open, being careful not to allow it to spring out of your fingers and falling inside the case. Slide the pin out and then the handle itself, horizontally.
Go back to step 4 above if you came here because you could not do step 4.

Aug 22, 2009 | Kenmore 15218 Mechanical Sewing Machine

2 Answers

Pressure foot doesn't go down


needs to be serviced, you can ship to me i can fix keithat11@aol.com

Jul 30, 2009 | PfaFF Creative 7570

1 Answer

LCD Screen doesn't work


the ribbon cable may have wiggled loose. It plugs in right behind the tension assemblies on top from back to the front. It's a wide ribbon cable. you have to remove the back cover to get it though

Mar 05, 2009 | Husqvarna Huskylock Computerized 910

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