Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Kenmore elite front load diagnostic test stopped at indication C:03
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is usually a symptom of a bad motor control board which located under the console. I had the same problem. You can open the console by removing the three screws in the back and lifting from the rear first. The console will pop off. In addition, if you look along washer top front edge in the seam there is a retaining clip about 2 inches in from each side. Using a putty knife, push in on each clip while lifting and the top should pop up. There will be a tech sheet affixed to the front wall of the washer between the wash tub and case. This tech sheet will give you all the guidance necessary on how to perform tests to prove whether or not the motor controller is at fault, or if the pump is at fault. I believe you may have a motor controller problem, though. Another possibility is getting something caught in the drain pump reservoir. This could binding the pump. Let me know if any of this is helpful to you.
Posted on Aug 16, 2007
Had same problem. Followed advice on post (i.e., remove bottom panel three screws, unscrew filter cap (have lots of towels cause it will drain), remove filter and voila!). Found one sock, a quarter, and some other junk clogging the drain. Saved $55 house service call. Thanks all!
Posted on Dec 13, 2007
This problem can be caused by either a leaking water inlet valve, or a condition known as "siphoning". Since you just recently moved, I would make sure you don't have a siphoning problem, first. The following link explains how:
Although siphoning normally refers to a constant drain problem where a washer has problems maintaining the proper water level, it can also lead to problems where the drain line will back up into the washer.
Now, if you follow the advice in the link and determine this is NOT caused by siphoning, I would suspect that you have a water inlet valve that is leaking. A tell-tale sign will be water trickling down the fill tube in the rubber door bellow. The water inlet valves have a diaphragm that is controlled by an electric solenoid. Sometimes the valve becomes clogged with sediment or deposits, causing the diaphragm not to close properly. If you live in an area that has hard water, or use well water, you may have hard water deposits or rust build up in the valve. You may be able to correct the problem by removing the valve and cleaning it with some distilled vinegar. You can remove the valve by following these steps:
1. Unplug the washer and turn off water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the water inlet hoses.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The inlet valve (this is what your water inlet hoses connect to) will be located in the left rear of the washer (facing from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) from the valve and the electric connections. Remember how the electrical connections are removed. They should be color coded. One is for HOT, one is for COLD.
5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the assembly in place.
Once you have the inlet valve removed, you can place it in some distilled vinegar and let it soak. Just don't submerge the electrical connections. If this does not correct your problem, replace the valve. Searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are two notable web sites that I have frequently used. Just type in your complete model number to begin the parts search.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore elite he3 flashing FH
The following link explains the "FH" error:
This can be a rather tough one to figure out, even with the error code explanation. I would recommend unplugging the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes first. This will reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). In many cases this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code reappears, check your washer installation to rule out the easiest possiblities, first. This means checking to ensure you don't have a siphoning condition, checking your drain lines and checking to ensure your fill hoses aren't kinked or clogged. Read through the link thoroughly and let me know if you have questions. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jan 09, 2009
If you've removed the screws and the panel sticks, tapping on each side will knock it loose. The panel should drop down, then off. You can also try propping the two front feet of the washer up slightly for better access. A 2x4 works real well. This will allow more room for the panel to drop and gives better access to the screws. The washer is very heavy, so you may need some assistance to lift the front. Either lift from the bottom, or place your hands on the front facing of the cabinet to push the washer back. DO NOT push on the door or control panel.
If you still need assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
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