Question about Miller Trailblazer 302 Welder Generator 907217 907216

Open Question

Starts but no output. Can not change settings from volts to amps. Won't idle up volt meter stays at 34.9

Posted by Anonymous on

Ad

2 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 51333 Answers

SOURCE: Miller roughneck 2e has low voltage 0ut of 120 volt receptacle only 5 volts at idle and 45 volts under power

have the alternator checked by an electrician
a t idle will be low as the exciter circuit will be producing low volts but it should go up when at operating rpms
45 volts at rpms indicates that the field windings of the alternator are not getting full current to produce the desired out put

Posted on Nov 20, 2015

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Can alternator put out 14.2 volts but not enough amps to charge battery and turn off dattery light?


Yes and no.
It sounds like you have a wiring problem.
The alternator output could be 14 volts and only one or two amps, but that would be enough to kill the warning light. Its more likely the alternator is charging but the current is not reaching the battery.

Aug 26, 2014 | GMC Envoy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2006 Honda Metropolitan the battery will not stay charged


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Bettery won stay charged
My motorcycle or scooter battery wont hold charge How to test the charging...
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CHF50 2007 Metropolitan Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


Nov 18, 2013 | 2006 Honda Metropolitan

1 Answer

2002 Honda Shadow VT 750 won't stay charged, new battery


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Battery won stay charged
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Honda 1998 VT750C Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VT750C Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Aug 28, 2013 | 2002 Honda VT 750 CD Shadow A.C.E. Deluxe

1 Answer

1998 jeep grand cherokee 5.9 v8 charges sometimes then will discharge


Sounds like the battery is dead & not capable of
being charged

You already know the alternator should put out
14.2 volts even with all accy's on

The only thing that changes is the current output
when you load a circuits,not voltage

You may be able to just buy the regulator &
replace yourself

Have to OHM out the diodes when it is apart

You should also check diodes for leakage with
an amp meter with KO/EO

Also check for diode current ripple with engine running

Mar 08, 2013 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Sometimes while riding the bike, it stalls after driving for sometime and then experienced hard start until it won't start again. Had battery checked and it was drained. Replaced with a new battery but...


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Sep 18, 2012 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport...

1 Answer

Hello and thank you in advance Here is my problem. My wife has a 1999 sportster (883) . I charge the battery and it starts the bike quikly. After a 2 hour ride, no more battery.I have to recharge it...


You need to check the output of the charging circuit. Your problem could be the alternator or regulator. I'd take the battery out and take it to an automotive parts store and have them load test the battery just to make sure it's alright.

To test the charging system, first charge the battery to full charge. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter). Put the meter's function selector switch to DC Volts, 20 volts or greater. Connect the meter's red lead to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post of the battery. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about two minutes or so, you should read between 14.5 volts and 15.0 volts. If you do not get this reading, continue to the alternator output check.

Find the two wires that run back towards the engine together from the regulator and follow them. You should find a round plug. Unplug the plug and look into the engine side of the plug. You will see two metal contacts. Are they clean? This is where you are going to test the output voltage from your alternator. You'll be testing an AC voltage so it won't make any difference which color lead you put into which metal contact. Put your meter's function selector switch in AC Volts, 50 volt or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert one meter lead into each of the metal contacts in the engine side of the plug. Do not let the meter leads touch each other or the engine case. You should read at least 25 volts.

If you don't have at least 25 volts at the engine plug from the alternator, your stator is bad and needs replacement. If you do have 25 or more volts coming out of the alternator but not the 14.5 volts at the battery, your voltage regulator is probably bad. I hope this helps.

Good Luck
Steve

Jun 07, 2011 | 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883

1 Answer

I just purchased yesterday and found recall notice in upper tour pack. The battery was low charged over night and am going to check voltage and amps at battery while running today. What are the telltail...


With the battery fully charged, use a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the output of the charging system. Connect it across the battery, red meter lead to positive, black meter lead to negative. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle of about 1500-2000 RPM. The meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts.

If the meter does not read correctly, unplug the regulator where it enters the front of the engine case. You'll be measuring the AC voltage at the engine case side of the plug. Put your meter's function switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT range. Put one meter lead into one metal contact in the plug and the other lead into the other metal contact in the plug. Makes no difference which lead goes to which metal contact. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 30 volts or better.

If you do not read 30 volts at the engine, your stator is bad. If you have 30 volts or more at the engine but low voltage at the battery, your regulator is probably bad. This is a simple test and it's accuracy is about 90% or so.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 31, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Battery charges most of the time but the longer i ride the battery goes dead and speedometer and turn signals stop working but it will keep runnning


You need to check the output of your alternator. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the outputs.

First connect the meter across your battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal, black meter lead to the negative or a good ground. Put the function selector of your meter in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle, 2000 RPM. Your meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts. Turn all lights on and make sure the voltage stays the same.

If your meter reads low in this test, you need to check the output of the stator. On the lower left front of the engine, you'll see a plug where the voltage regulator plugs into the engine case. Unplug this plug and look into the part that is in the engine case. You'll see two metal contacts. These are what you're going to put your meter leads to in this test. Since the voltage is now AC volts, it makes no difference which lead goes to which contact. Put your meter's function selector in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert the meter leads into the contacts. The meter should read at least 30 volts AC voltage here.

If the alternator stator test fails, you need a new stator. If it passes the test, you need a new regulator. If both pass the test, you need to evaluate the current draw of any extra lights or other equipment that you may have put on the bike. If your equipment is drawing more current than the alternator is capable of producing, a slow drawdown of the battery is the results.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 25, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

1 Answer

New batterie new negative wire new posative wire but wont charge . are there any reiays or fuses causing this problem?


You need to check the output of your alternator. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the outputs.

First connect the meter across your battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal, black meter lead to the negative or a good ground. Put the function selector of your meter in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle, 2000 RPM. Your meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts. Turn all lights on and make sure the voltage stays the same.

If your meter reads low in this test, you need to check the output of the stator. On the lower left front of the engine, you'll see a plug where the voltage regulator plugs into the engine case. Unplug this plug and look into the part that is in the engine case. You'll see two metal contacts. These are what you're going to put your meter leads to in this test. Since the voltage is now AC volts, it makes no difference which lead goes to which contact. Put your meter's function selector in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert the meter leads into the contacts. The meter should read at least 30 volts AC voltage here.

If the alternator stator test fails, you need a new stator. If it passes the test but the voltage to the battery is low, you need a new regulator.

If both pass the test, you need to evaluate the current draw of any extra lights or other equipment that you may have put on the bike. If your equipment is drawing more current than the alternator is capable of producing, a slow drawdown of the battery is the results.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 25, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

My 99 safari volt meter always stays on about 14 even at idle but recently it has started dropping to about 12 at idle then back to 14 when driving. what is this indicating?


Not necessarily a problem. It depends on MANY things. If you are running lights, heater or AC, brake lights, all of these things can cause what you describe.

At speed (2,000 rpm or so), you need to be 14 volts or higher.

To test:

Fully charge, then load test battery.
If Battery okay, then load test the alternator to check output amps. If no tester is available, often parts stores will test for free.


Jul 28, 2010 | 1999 GMC Safari

Not finding what you are looking for?
Miller Trailblazer 302 Welder Generator 907217 907216 Logo

Related Topics:

108 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Miller Welding Tools Experts

Robert Lee

Level 1 Expert

27 Answers

Kory Ronning

Level 2 Expert

60 Answers

Robert Monigold
Robert Monigold

Level 2 Expert

390 Answers

Are you a Miller Welding Tool Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...