Question about Husqvarna 122HD60 Hedge Trimmer 21.7cc, 24in.W Blade
Starts okay, but will not throttle up in start throttle position or with throttle. Can get engine to idle by slowly releasing choke to normal position, but as soon as I throttle up, engine stalls.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If it will start on choke and die when choke is taken off...the carb needs to be taken off and cleaned. The main jet in the carb is probably clogged.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
I think you have exceded our level of help. Please try here.
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
You might read this thread
I searched for "Husky 266" and got many positive hits. She is a respected machine.
Posted on Oct 16, 2009
There can many different answers. Fuel was old? Could have junked up the fuel filter in the fuel tank $5 or fuel junked up carburetor kit will cost you $15 take in carburetor to lawn mower shop. If you do rebuild make sure to blow out all ports and lines with compressed air. Make sure to run weed eater out of fuel if stored for the winter. M.J.'s Mobile Maintenance
Posted on May 24, 2010
1 turn out is approximate setting fo H and L screws...once running adjust H screw so that it is just rich at full throttle (4 stroking then 2 stroking with out changing screw) once thats right adjust L screw at idle till it starts to pick up speed then just back off 1/8 of turn ....then you can adjust tapered screw to nice idle....if this fails you have carby problem
Posted on Aug 14, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 128ld it
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of trimmers.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Sep 08, 2011
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