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Alot of variables there. If it's really old you must be extremely gentle. I have had them crumble into pieces in my hand. If it doesn't appear corroded around the edges and is in good shape, you should rock or pry gently with a non marring tool (putty knife covered by rag) alternating sides to break it loose. A penetrating oil like PB blaster can be used if you can let it sit for a day. Just straight pulling is not wise. Tapping (not pounding) can be helpful. You are just trying to break the bond between surfaces so the vibration of lots of light tapping will sometimes do it.
It is possiblle that the sudden pulse from the pickup due to tapping is saturating the input of your amplifier, and that is what actually kills the signal. Try this into a different amp as a test. Once you do the test I can offer some suggestions to try.
Try tapping the side of lens, or smacking the camera gently on the palm of your hand when it's on, then restart the camera.
It could be a problem with the lens mechanism, and the gentle, yet firm tapping may help.
Great!-- It has been awhile since I have done this--- and be careful, for you know how dangerous mercury is--- (Your Thermometer might be another liquid-- if it is red?)
Anyway, here is what you can try:
If you place the thermometer in the freezer for a few minutes, yo will get the liquid to move toward the bulb--- GENTLY!!! tab the Thermometer on something like a wooden board, -- something firm, but not steel, or ceramic-- or something real hard-- Gently tapping, will move the separated column toward the bulb, too--
Now place the bulb in in warm water--- gently tapping again--
Did any of the column join-- Repeat a few times-- did that work?
You can gently warm the bulb, and column, too--
HOWEVER TO NOT get near the maximum temperature of the numbers on the thermometer, or you might break the glass column at the top!;
Usually this message (with the cap actually off!) means that the internal iris is stuck closed. This can occur for many reasons. The problem is that this is not a DIY repair. You can try tapping the lens assembly with your finger. Sometimes the vibration of that tapping will release the iris. If that fails, then the only way to resolev it is to gain access to the assembly inside the camera. Again, this is not a DIY repair unless you have previous experience with camera repair. The internal cables and parts are easily damaged. When attempting the "tapping", strike the camera near the printing that is close to the visible lens. Please be gentle, do not strike hard, just a firm tap.
It sounds like either the headlight relay is shorted, or the switch is shorted. I'd think that the relay would be in an underhood box, probably near the battery (although there may be several boxes under there). You can swap it with another relay of the same rating (they're usually color-coded in reference to their amperage, so two of the same color would be interchangeable) and see if that works. If not, I'd think maybe the switch needs to be replaced.
Another idea - are these the actual high beams (as in the switch is turned on) or are these the daytime running lights? If it's the daytime running lights, I'd suspect the relay for those (which is separate from the normal headlight relay). You can even try tapping firmly on it a few times with a wrench. A relay is a mechanical switch and they stick sometimes - popping it with a wrench or screwdriver handle sometimes unsticks them.