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Control board not working both freezer and refrigerator on GE Mod.GSH25KGRB BB

Control board not working both freezer and refrigerator no cold air both sections.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: the refrigerator section is not cold

Replace the freezer fan motor.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: How do you replace the mother board on the GE refrigerator?

Hi,
If the diagnosis is correct (and I believe it is) your part number is correct and can be purchased for about $130.00 online or at your local appliance parts retailer. It is very easy to replace.

{{{UNPLUG THE FRIDGE!}}}

Pull the fridge out away from the wall so you can get behind it. As you're looking at the back of the fridge, you'll see a panel at the top left. You can't miss it. It has about 15 screws holding it in place. Remove these (use a 1/4" nut driver or socket) then remove the panel.

Now if you look closely at the board and take note of the connectors, you'll see that it's fool-proof... which means that after you take them off, you can NOT get it wrong when you put them on the new board. <-- Now THAT'S good news, huh?

OK, you'll see 3 connectors on one end of the board and they are all white. You'll see 2 connectors at the opposite end, one is white and the other is blue. Remove the 3 white connectors first, leave the other 2 for last.

Next, look closely at the board again... you'll see 4 white plastic tabs sticking through the board. These are the stand-off clips that hold it in place. Look very closely and you'll see that these clips have a "locking" tab on them. Use the tip of a knife to push the tab in while pulling out on the corresponding section of the board. Do this on all 4 corners and the board is out.

Now you should still have the 2 remaining wire connectors (the blue one and the white one) still on the board, remove them now. Pull out your new board, install the 2 connectors (blue and white) first then mount the new board onto the plastic stand-off clips, then connect your 3 remaining white wires connectors. After that is done, plug in the machine for test. You should hear the compressor start within 5 seconds or so.

When you re-install the aluminum cover, make sure that you connect that "flying" green ground wire to one of the screws used for the panel. It's necessary.

All in all, about a 20 minute job.

Hope this helps!
SG

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE GSS25WGMD BB Fridge. I have already

First, when the refrigerator is running, open the freezer door and hold in the light switch so the freezer light goes out. You should be able to hear the freezer (evaporator) fan running. If it is running, then you most likely have a problem with the air damper. It is a motorized door in the very upper left side, back corner, of the fresh foods section. The door needs to be open for air to flow into the refrigerator section. If you place your hand near the vent holes at the upper refrigerator section and the freezer fan is running, FF section warm, you should feel cold air entering. If not, the damper door may have broken. It is not real easy to get at to replace, but that is where your problem may be. Be sure to check the freezer fan first, as a non-working icemaker may point in that direction.

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigator not cooling properly, freezer works fine

I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.

If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,

After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.

The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.

Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.

When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.

Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

iwillfixforu
  • 619 Answers

SOURCE: GE fridge/freezer on but no cold air

The main board on the back of the unit has gone bad or in lockout. Try unplugging unit for about 30 seconds. Then plug it back in. If it doesn't start the board is bad. wr55x10942 at about 169.00. Hope this helps. Very common GE problem

Posted on Mar 07, 2010

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Have a ge model # GTH21KBXAWW. The freezer works fine. The bottom half does not keep cold.


Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm
  1. Evaporator coils are frosted over
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the first step is to check the defrost system for problems. A key indicator in determining if perhaps you have a refrigeration defrost problem is visible frost on the evaporator coils. If your unit has frost you will need to check your defrost heater assembly, the defrost control, and the evaporator fan motor for a malfunction. Replace any erroneous parts as necessary.
  1. Damper
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the damper door could be broken or jammed. The damper is a door that opens and closes to allow cool air to flow from the freezer into the refrigerator unit, and if it fails to operate correctly, not enough cold air will enter the refrigerator to keep it cold. The damper can be replaced if it is no longer operating properly.
  1. Thermistor
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the thermistor connected to the control board might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor that examines the temperature inside the unit. If the part is defective, the refrigerator could not cool properly.
  1. Temperature control board
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the temperature control board could be at fault. The temperature control board distributes voltage to the fan motors and compressor to keep them functioning. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.
  1. Defrost thermostat
Another issue that can cause your freezer to be cold while the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be is the defrost thermostat. In order for the defrost heater to activate to melt away any excessive frosting on the evaporator coils, the defrost thermostat must sense that the temperature is cold enough to activate the defrost heater. Without this continuous cycle, the frost will excessively build up on the coils and prevent proper air flow inside the unit. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity with an ohm meter; if it's not present, the thermostat will need to be replaced.
  1. Main control board
A possible cause for a freezer that's cold but refrigerator that's not as cold as it should be is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit, controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time. However, it is an uncommon cause for this issue. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.

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1 Answer

My refrigerator is working , but not the freezer


It could be the control board. I am curious about the fresh food working but not the freezer. the cold air comes from the freezer. Is the fan running in the freezer. It is possible the freezer fan could be bad. I have replaced them in the past. If you can return the control board if it doesn't fix the problem then change it. If not it is a gamble on replacing the board.

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This could be a dozen different things causing this. Do you see ice build up on the back wall? Your freezer coil could be icing over and blocking fan air flow. This can be due to a bad fan, low freon.....

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I have side by side refrigerator GE GSS25IFRF BB MOD FH234420 IS NOT RUNING PROPERLY AND ALSO HAVE A SOUND LIKE A CLOCK AND TEMPERATURE IS NOT COLD


The control board on the rear of the refrigerator is making the noise because it has gone bad.
The control board must be replaced.

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Set both settings at 5 and see if it starts working right

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your water valve might be bad it locate behinde the fridg on the bottom you need to pool out the pip from it to see if it still leak..
contact me at www.911servicetoday.com

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The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp ..

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Sounds like a main control board defective .The one on your refrig WR55X10552 , is on a recall list .
http://www.scribd.com/doc/13371507/Ge-Motherboard-Concession-Letter
The new part number is WR55X10656 . I would suggest calling GE , to have them come out and check , as this part and labor , should be covered , as stated by the letter .

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